Setting up the belt grinder

Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
101
Man, it sure is going to be nice using my new belt grinder, IF I can set it up right. It's a Coote with 10" wheel.

I hooked it up with a 3" pulley on a 1 HP AG motor, 1725 RPM. The grinder got a step pulley of 4", 5", and 6".

My calculations show SFM speed of 3364, 2691, and 2242 speeds respectively.

Now, it this in the ballpark for common grits of 2" X 72" that you guys use?
(Never used a belt grinder before).

Also, I like a pretty deep hollow grind on most of my working knives (skinners). Some also get a fuller with two seperate hollows.
Before, I rough ground them out on a 6" bench grinder, and cleaned them up with a die grinder and some jigs. Took a long time, though.

Question: Can I do this work on the 10" wheel of the Coote? Or maybe it's time to build a forge:jerkit:

Thanks,
Mike
 
Congrats on a nice grinder.:thumbup:
 
Thank you kindly.......

Any idea if my calculations are correct?

Looking for some help before I order some belts and maybe a new pulley:jerkit:
 
Congrats Mike!!

Your speeds are correct. It sounds like a very nice set-up.

The slowest speed is still fairly fast (IMHO)...I think you might like to have a speed down around 500-1000 sfm for some very delicate finishing work. But don't worry about that for now. Get some belts, start grinding and start climbing the learning-curve. There are no hard rules ... so, see what you think for yourself..then make changes if needed. For some, it will be perfect.

Have fun and Congrats again!!

-Rob
 
Congrats Mike!!

Your speeds are correct. It sounds like a very nice set-up.

The slowest speed is still fairly fast (IMHO)...I think you might like to have a speed down around 500-1000 sfm for some very delicate finishing work. But don't worry about that for now. -Rob


Thanks for the info, Rob. I didn't get a book with it, no docs at all. I got it at an estate sale. Some guy had bought it years ago and never used it, it seems.

It's been many years since my algebra days, that's why it was important for somebody to check my calculations, THANKS!

I've got a 2" pulley here, and will replace the 3" on the motor to slow it down some more. I'll try that for awhile and learn what works and what doesn't.

Again, thanks for the help.

Mike
 
The only advice I have, the only I dare share is:

That I think you should have the contact wheel spinning out over the edge of whatever workbench the grinder is bolted to.

It really helps if there is nothing under the contact wheel getting in the way or collecting dust.
 
Yup your math is corret. I run my 10" coote with a 2-3-4 step pulley on my 1725 motor and a 4-5-6 step pulley on the coote. I also am using a 1hp motor, and while it is possible to bog it down at 1hp, that's only when you're really leaning into it across the whole belt. With a 2" pulley you'll be down to 1495 FPM for your belt speed, and that's a quite reasonable speed to run at, and what I've been using while practicing grinding on some mild steel stock. Also as per the suggestion, having the wheel free hanging out over the side of the bench you have it bolted to is good. Here is how my coote is setup.

http://www.tharkis.com/images/shop.jpg
 
22 2"x4"x8', a generous amount of wood glue, and 3lbs of 6D 2" nails

I gave up on the tree cutting services in the area ever turning up some good stumps and made my own stumps.
 
Thanks again, Justin. I tried to send you a PM, but you have it blocked, it seems.....

I either have this grinder set up wrong, or Norm has changed it over the years.

First off, my 10" is mounted with the dished side out. Smooth surface towards the bearing. If I tried to turn it over the rim woud hit before the inner sleeve made contact with the shaft.

Also, that's a pretty good angle off vertical, ain't it? Mine is almost straight up and down. Did you change anything?

Mike
 
Thanks again, Justin. I tried to send you a PM, but you have it blocked, it seems.....

I either have this grinder set up wrong, or Norm has changed it over the years.

First off, my 10" is mounted with the dished side out. Smooth surface towards the bearing. If I tried to turn it over the rim woud hit before the inner sleeve made contact with the shaft.

Also, that's a pretty good angle off vertical, ain't it? Mine is almost straight up and down. Did you change anything?

Mike

Get on the horn with Norm. he will fix ya.
 
That 'flat side' is the 9" disc that replaces the contact wheel nut. Cool mod and cheap too. The machine pivots to different angles by loosening the two set screws in the middle of the housing. Contact wheel work is darn near impossible without pivoting.

Rob!
 
That 'flat side' is the 9" disc that replaces the contact wheel nut. Cool mod and cheap too. The machine pivots to different angles by loosening the two set screws in the middle of the housing. Contact wheel work is darn near impossible without pivoting.

Rob!


I really liked the 9" disc to put on the side of the contact wheel but ultimately went with the KMG. I wish I could get the same thing for the KMG instead of having another machine to deal with.
 
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