SFNO LE & EdgePro vs Toilet Paper !

that video has been shat from an Italian guy I know, we were arguing about who had the better sharpening system, his edge pro or my hands :D
that test is hard, but nothing impossible. I can get same results with my own hands sharpening on waterstones.

the edge obtained through edgepro is just cooler to watch in my opinion (I have edge pro too and I havn't found ANY sharpness advantage against my free hand sharpening system, plus, with edge pro is easier to scratch the blade)


and here are my videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jq2qYwZuFos
http://www.youtube.com/user/istarr88?feature=mhum#p/a/u/1/rVKeWaxu_dU
http://www.youtube.com/user/istarr88?feature=mhum#p/a/u/0/yXizRvPLP4A

any sharpness result achiavable through edge pro is achiavable through free hand sharpening.

hair splicing, shaving, scratching paper surface without getting through.... everything.

Those are neat videos. Can you share your sharpening process?
 
Those are neat videos. Can you share your sharpening process?

of course. there is nothing special about what I do. with a collaboration of an italian knives online store, I'll shot a DVD about free hand sharpening.

There is no secret or special tricks about sharpening. and there is no necessary a lot ok skill neither. you just need patience and to understand a few things about WHAT is sharpening, what means to have a knife sharp, blade and edge geometry and then what is necessary to sharpen the knife.

once you know the theory behind making a knife sharp, you magically became able to get knives razor sharp, and you'll understand on your own how to hold the hand, what movements to do, the pressure to exercise, burr removing etc etc etc...

there are no magical skills required, just metal understanding in my opinion.

the only skill you need once you have that, is the human common ability to move your kands keeping about the same angle for all the process.

ABOUT the same angle. there is no special advantage in having the esact same angle all the way through the sharpening process... for ezample with edge pro, you can get a shiny perfectly polished edge, that cuts extremely well.

but such a perfect edge doesn't offer any superior cutting ability than a slightly irregular edge obtained through free hand.

the edge you can get on your own is not as perfectly flat, you'll not be able to reflect your image in it, but it will cut exactly like the edge obtained through edge pro.

if you use same metal, same heat treatings, same blade geometry and edge geometry, the sharpness will be on equal terms, of course if you use a steel with finer grain structure, different heat treatings, thinner and with an edge angle more acute, it will cut better ;)
 
There is no secret or special tricks about sharpening. and there is no necessary a lot ok skill neither. you just need patience and to understand a few things about WHAT is sharpening, what means to have a knife sharp, blade and edge geometry and then what is necessary to sharpen the knife.

once you know the theory behind making a knife sharp, you magically became able to get knives razor sharp, and you'll understand on your own how to hold the hand, what movements to do, the pressure to exercise, burr removing etc etc etc...

there are no magical skills required, just metal understanding in my opinion.
Could you share the necessary theory with us, what a person needs to understand? Thanks
 
To the original poster--nice job! What angle did you sharpen at?

All the videos posted are great! Those are some sharp knives!
 
Could you share the necessary theory with us, what a person needs to understand? Thanks

this is not the right thread but anyway.....

to sharpen you need to remove metal.
you don't need to remove metal in excess or too few.
the most important thing to have in mind is that there are different blades with different POU, each blade has a particular angle that works best for that purpose. for example, in a folder or a very small fixed blade, you don't need a thick edge with an obtuse angle, but a thin edge with acute angle, instead, if you have a big and heavy blade, most of the cuts will be made through pression and impacts and not through real cutting, in this case, you need a thick edge with obtuse angle, to absorb great abuses and even if it doesn't cut very well, that will work fine anyway.

in some extreme cases you don't need your tool sharp at all. for example, there is no big difference in an axe razor sharp or an axe that is pratically dull.
the axe works for pression and it will cut, split, chop because of it's weight and balance and general geometry and even if the edge is not razor sharp, it will work good anyway.

it's a very long thing to explain but you may have already understood the main points.

you need to remove metal on the edge in order to maximize the performances of the blade you're sharpening.

this is called WORKING ON EDGE GEOMETRY. this means that the edge of the knife once you've removed enough metal must have the correct geometry for his dedicated purpose.

now, once the edge has a correct geometry we can think about making it scary sharp, like a razor and more... ;)

and to make it sharp you basically need to polish the edge.

to get the correct edge geometry you'll use coarse stones like 120-220-300 max grit stones. with this method you remove a LOT of metal quickly, but the edge will have "microserrations" that will ake it less sharp and will make the edge less durable.

to remove microserrations you simply jump to finer stones.

I sharpen my blades using only 2 japanese waterstones with combo grit.

the first stone is the 300-1000... I use the 300 to remove chips and restore the edge geometry I want ( I even reprofile edges free hand and sharpen standard V edges to convex edges on stone) than I start polishing the edge with the other side of the stone with the 1000 grit side.

once I've removed all the scratches of the 300 stone with the 1000 I'm ready to use the 4000 stone, and once I've removed the scatches of the 1000 I polish the edge with 8000 grit stone.

to give final polish to the edge and create a micro convex bevel on even a perfectly V edge, I simply strop the edge on leather with dry metal polish on it.

a great metal polisher is Metal Glo. once it's dry it removes a LOT of metal. it's a good options even to sharpen up to 1000 and then directly strop on metal glo.

you can use finer metal polishers to have a finer edge.

my method is easy because it's not important to do particular attention to the movements you do, and neither the directions of the blade while you're sharpening it. you just need to remove metal.

the only mistake may be drastically change the sharpening angle with your hand, but I think it's easy to begin with an inclination and then mantain about the same angle from beginning to the end... for example, if you sharpen in a range of 35-40° it's fine, but if you begin at 40°, than switch to 50, than to 25, the first mistake is that you have removed the very edge uring the strokes at 50°, and than, switching back at 25, you're not removing metal from te edge at all.

so, it's long to explain but, the easier thing to do to get a razor sharp knife is to start at an angle more acute than the one you need, for example at 25° and than your natural mistakes (because it's impossible for a human being to mantain the exact same angle durin all the sharpening) will let you have the desired edge angle of (for example) 35°. but if you start sharpening at the desired angle, you'll get an edge too obtuse, resulting in a blade that doesn't cut well.

further explainations will continue in private or if requested ;)
 
Great Job sharpening!! great knife!! SFNOs are the best!!:thumbup:


I don't know what you other massholes are talking about an accent??:confused:

"we talk right" everyone else has an "accent";):p
 
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