Shadetree burlap question

iAn490 said:
Could you make me a sheath for my Bushfinger?
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Ian, no need to change sheaths, Rick Lowe sheaths (the one pictured) are top notch. You should still be able to do the treatment on yours if you want to try first.
 
I must say Allen your sheaths are velvety soft and no transfer on my shade tree asp handle. Your process is a good one
 
I need to get a few more Shadetree handled knives before I feel qualified to offer an opinion...:D

Phil
 
If that sheath came with the Bushfinger at Blade, it's been completely sealed on the inside to prevent the dye from staining the handle.
There had been some problems in the past with this issue, so I've tried to seal everything on the inside. Fingernail polish remover or straight acetone will usually remove minor stains from dye. A little mineral oil or wax will bring the finish right back. Just to be totally correct, that's what I do with mine, but it still is your choice. Bottom line, if you like the sheath, but are concerned with the dye, I'll make another one just like it without any inside dye. No charge and I'll pay shipping.
 
Rick Lowe said:
If that sheath came with the Bushfinger at Blade, it's been completely sealed on the inside to prevent the dye from staining the handle.
There had been some problems in the past with this issue, so I've tried to seal everything on the inside. Fingernail polish remover or straight acetone will usually remove minor stains from dye. A little mineral oil or wax will bring the finish right back. Just to be totally correct, that's what I do with mine, but it still is your choice. Bottom line, if you like the sheath, but are concerned with the dye, I'll make another one just like it without any inside dye. No charge and I'll pay shipping.
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Thanks for the offer. The sheath is excellent. I'm going to try the mineral oil and not leaving it in the sheath when not in use.
 
It's never a good idea to leave carbon steel blades in a leather sheath for storage. Any leather, whether sealed inside and out, will tend to wick moisture from air and can cause rust spots on the blade after time and no use. Carry and use it with no worry, just store out of the leather.
 
I love the way shadetree pops, but the brown discoloration that comes with sheathing and use, has kept me from keeping any.

My wife stores her 01 doublemint kephart in her J.Oeser sheath and months later, no rust. You just have to make sure the blade is properly lubed up with mineral oil. I honestly think if you kept a nice patina and oil on the blade, though not recommended, I don't think it would ever rust.
 
allen456 said:
I treat my leather a bit differently than most but it works extremely well and stays conditioned for a very very long time. When I make my sheaths, after they are stiched and ready, I bake them in the oven for two or so hours on the lowest possible setting. Have a pan with extra virgin olive oil warming, not to hot to the touch ready. After the leather has dried a good bit, pull it out and dunk it in the EVOO and remove fairly quickly. Let the excess drip for a minute and watch the rest be absorbed. Darkens the leather a bit, but seals, conditions, and protects the leather in one shot.
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Next time try one or two with Walnut oil. I hand rub my sheaths with it and get great results. When I get close to the color I want. I switch to tung oil.
 
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