Shadetree for CPK

[MikeKu825]

From what I have seen people are getting flat scales. Many of them warped. I suppose Jo picked the best ones out to sell.

So my guess would be that Nathan wouldn't want to do a material that had a low success rate based on warping alone. They aren't well suited to the process CPK uses.

This goes for wood as well which is why you don't see it much anymore. It's far more complicated than throwing a wood block in the machine and spitting some scales out as if they were G10.

Generally speaking Nathan way under promises on his work describing it with terms like "field grade" with machine marks etc. When seen in person it's better than many other makers work period.

So in short with the flaws found in the material etc I think it doesn't measure up to his standards.

Thanks for the explanation! I'm glad these didn't get tossed. I'm sure there are plenty of us that enjoy a little project like finishing up scales. It definitely makes me feel more involved. It's almost like a reward for hanging around this joint 24/7. Lol

 

[Nathan the Machinist]

We threw out all of the "shark fin tsunami", the denim and a few other wonky bits. Quite a bit went into the dumpster.

It's really a cool and interesting material, but I don't think it lends itself to removable scales. I even tried bonding it to G10 and micarta liners but it warped. The scales that stayed flat and accurate are functional, but the fibers aren't really fully impregnated so it doesn't finish well with our manufacturing process. I won't put WD40 on a scale. It soaks into a leather sheath or clothing and leaves light spots, and who wants an oily grip?

It was worth a try. *shrug*

 

[jackal_727]

We threw out all of the "shark fin tsunami", the denim and a few other wonky bits. Quite a bit went into the dumpster.

It's really a cool and interesting material, but I don't think it lends itself to removable scales. I even tried bonding it to G10 and micarta liners but it warped. The scales that stayed flat and accurate are functional, but the fibers aren't really fully impregnated so it doesn't finish well with our manufacturing process. I won't put WD40 on a scale. It soaks into a leather sheath or clothing and leaves light spots, and who wants an oily grip?

It was worth a try. *shrug*

That's too bad. I've always loved the look of denim micarta.

 

[Hard Knocks]

We threw out all of the "shark fin tsunami", the denim and a few other wonky bits.

Nathan, you built a field knife for me one time in denim micarta laminated to g10 liners. Is the denim that you had to scrap a different material? The one you did for me is fantastic.

 

[Nathan the Machinist]

Nathan, you built a field knife for me one time in denim micarta laminated to g10 liners. Is the denim that you had to scrap a different material? The one you did for me is fantastic.

That was Micarta brand Micarta manufactured by Norplex that you got, not Shadetree.

 

[ManOfSteel89]

That was Micarta brand Micarta manufactured by Norplex that you got, not Shadetree.

Well where do I get some of those for my FK?!

 

[MikeKu825]

We threw out all of the "shark fin tsunami", the denim and a few other wonky bits. Quite a bit went into the dumpster.

It's really a cool and interesting material, but I don't think it lends itself to removable scales. I even tried bonding it to G10 and micarta liners but it warped. The scales that stayed flat and accurate are functional, but the fibers aren't really fully impregnated so it doesn't finish well with our manufacturing process. I won't put WD40 on a scale. It soaks into a leather sheath or clothing and leaves light spots, and who wants an oily grip?

It was worth a try. *shrug*

This might be getting in the weeds.. but why does this shadetree micarta warp where others do not? Is there less resin? Is the resin used not able to soak the fibers?

I'd like to know as much as anyone is willing to divulge. I'd like to make my own micarta, so all info is appreciated.

 

[Nathan the Machinist]

This might be getting in the weeds.. but why does this shadetree micarta warp where others do not? Is there less resin? Is the resin used not able to soak the fibers?

I'd like to know as much as anyone is willing to divulge. I'd like to make my own micarta, so all info is appreciated.

Shadetree, and anything that you make, is going to be cast in some kind of two part resin. Industrial micarta is thermoset phenolic composite rolled under heat and pressure. They really are different animals. Different resin, different process. The cast materials have porosity and are not as fully impregnated. The heat and pressure drive the phenolic into the fibers better, making a denser material.

Not all phenolic materials are perfectly stable either, but they tend to be pretty good. You could get some import material that is poor quality but the domestically produced stuff is good. I like Accurate Acculam, it's made in Yonkers NY. Ironically, a lot of Norplex Micarta is import. Probably the best micarta was Westinghouse Micarta but they stopped making that about 20 years ago and the last of it was available about 10 years ago in any quantities from distributors.

I used to machine the stuff quite regularly. If I knew then what I know now I'd have stuck away a lot of it. I have retained one piece of butterscotch Micarta from those days.



When making resin castings you want to get the air out. Mix your resin very thoroughly and hit it with a hard vacuum a few times to pop the biggest bubbles. Roll it into your work thoroughly and lay it up rolling out the bubbles and excess resin then clamp the hell out of it.

There is an industrial process called resin transfer molding that would be a good process to emulate, though it might be difficult to do on a hobby level.

 

[JustinFournier]

I used to machine the stuff quite regularly. If I knew then what I know now I'd have stuck away a lot of it. I have retained one piece of butterscotch Micarta from those days.

Ahhhh Butterscotch. My only complaint is the inconsistency for the potential end colour, based on varying reports after the massive colour shift resulting from oxidization. Hope it doesn't get too red!

Westinghouse, 2 lines is the give away.



But I'm looking forward to more regardless.

When it was new:



Last year:



Recently:



I can see the red in person better than the camera shows.

It's beautiful regardless and quite the shift.

 

[Hard Knocks]

Thank you for those shots JF. Such a cool progression.

 

[betzner]

I can see the red in person better than the camera shows.

It's beautiful regardless and quite the shift.

I have loved seeing the remarkable progression those butterscotch scales have made from start to finish. I think even more true butterscotch color will come of it. I believe the red tinge is just part of the forward change. They are beautiful as they are, and all it takes is an eye to see what's butterscotch about them. Probably my favorite Westinghouse.

 

[MikeKu825]

I have loved seeing the remarkable progression those butterscotch scales have made from start to finish. I think even more true butterscotch color will come of it. I believe the red tinge is just part of the forward change. They are beautiful as they are, and all it takes is an eye to see what's butterscotch about them. Probably my favorite Westinghouse.

My only experience with butterscotch is in the area of pudding. As an expert in the field, this micarta is on a similar path to what one would see with butterscotch pudding after prolonged exposure to open air. Just get it in the fridge and cover it up.. it'll be fine. I'm not sure about Westinghouse, my experience is mostly in J E L L O..

 

[jackal_727]

My only experience with butterscotch is in the area of pudding. As an expert in the field, this micarta is on a similar path to what one would see with butterscotch pudding after prolonged exposure to open air. Just get it in the fridge and cover it up.. it'll be fine. I'm not sure about Westinghouse, my experience is mostly in J E L L O..

I hear that stuff is alive...