Shadetree Phenolic Discussion

hey man. you might have mentioned it already, but i'm too lazy to read through this big ol thread.
do you have nay carbon fiber instock? thanks man

Not just now, buT I do have some basalt fiber, which is just as cool, IMO:http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=489020

Also, I have a hybrid yellow paper/basalt fiber:
DSC01042.jpg
 
I just shipped my first scales in fiberglass. I can get this material in many colors (the standard offerings are: white, blue, black, green, purple, orange, red, yellow, pink, as well as texalium which is the silver) and the company I have been working with offers color matching, so if you wish we can come up with fiberglass scales (G10) in any color.

Orange and Silver (texalium)
DSC01056.jpg


Black and Blue:
DSC01055.jpg


Contact me and I'll be happy to work with you to come up with what you need.
 
Alright Shady, here is my vision. It is missing the stainless .020 spacer between the tex and the black G-10. The blade is sanded up to 800 grit, and I purposely kept going after the paper was burned out real slow to kinda "polish" the steel. you can still see the 800 grit scratches but change the angle and it looks like a mirror.

Shady1.jpg
 
Oh yea, the feedback. The tex cuts real nice on the bandsaw, but you can tell it is noticeably softer than commercial G-10. I have not encountered any difficulties working with the stuff so far because of that. Quite easier to remove material compared to G-10. we will see when I finish the stuff to 600 or so. Has anybody had to use CA to keep the fuzzies down?

Tim
 
yeah tommegow has a pretty cool idea snakeskin would be awsome but you would have to preserve it first just need a spoon and some denatured alchohol. wait wait you would have to put it on the very bottom and just clear all the way up the skin would not show the pattern if you sanded into it just a thought I know i would buy it
 
the yarn sample was a little soft for my liking when i got it and was to small to use on the knives i had ready at the time
shady now that you upgraded i would like another shot at it
 
what about using thin leather died different colors and stacked depending on your reaction time would it have long enough to completely soak into the leather
and also what if you just used solid epoxy in different colors and and just swirled them together maybe glitter or glow powder mixed in.

just thinking out loud.......evan
 
Oh yea, the feedback. The tex cuts real nice on the bandsaw, but you can tell it is noticeably softer than commercial G-10. I have not encountered any difficulties working with the stuff so far because of that. Quite easier to remove material compared to G-10. we will see when I finish the stuff to 600 or so. Has anybody had to use CA to keep the fuzzies down?

Tim

Wow Tim,
Cool, good stuff, thanks for the feedback.
I was wondering if that texalium would make nice bolster material. Very cool.

I'm getting some feedback refering to some of this as "soft"... I wonder if that is the best description. I know I cannot dent these with my thumbnail, like I could with balsa or cedar. Also some of the blanks have some flex to them. But again, these although are not rigid, one could not really describe these as "soft"

Is this just a case of relating this stuff to wood? Some woods do work easier than others and we tend to use the terms "hard" or "soft" when descibing the workability of the specific wood.

I guess I am wondering if some of the descriptions are turning some people away who would otherwise try some of this stuff. I don't know. I had hoped for some better interest (yeah, and sales) with this stuff. I suppose I ought not complain and be patient, and wait for folks to work at thier own pace and time.

I'm anxious see my work on peoples knives, so to see what you are doing is awesome and I appreciate it greatly, Tim. Thanks!
 
what about using thin leather died different colors and stacked depending on your reaction time would it have long enough to completely soak into the leather
and also what if you just used solid epoxy in different colors and and just swirled them together maybe glitter or glow powder mixed in.

just thinking out loud.......evan

Evan, I have not as of yet tried it, but a knifemaker I have been working with has tried and has not had much success as far as I know. It is an interesting idea, but tends to be expensive.

Thanks!
-Todd
 
the yarn sample was a little soft for my liking when i got it and was to small to use on the knives i had ready at the time
shady now that you upgraded i would like another shot at it

Right on, Butch, let me know what you like and I'll give you a break on the price. Sorry, but I can't afford to give any more of this away.
Thanks for the interest,
-Todd
 
Wow Tim,
Cool, good stuff, thanks for the feedback.
I was wondering if that texalium would make nice bolster material. Very cool.

I'm getting some feedback refering to some of this as "soft"... I wonder if that is the best description. I know I cannot dent these with my thumbnail, like I could with balsa or cedar. Also some of the blanks have some flex to them. But again, these although are not rigid, one could not really describe these as "soft"

Is this just a case of relating this stuff to wood? Some woods do work easier than others and we tend to use the terms "hard" or "soft" when descibing the workability of the specific wood.

I guess I am wondering if some of the descriptions are turning some people away who would otherwise try some of this stuff. I don't know. I had hoped for some better interest (yeah, and sales) with this stuff. I suppose I ought not complain and be patient, and wait for folks to work at thier own pace and time.

I'm anxious see my work on peoples knives, so to see what you are doing is awesome and I appreciate it greatly, Tim. Thanks!

I could understand why some folks might be scared of the "S" word! The thing that folks have to realize is that pretty much any form of poly or epoxy resin is going to be more pliable than phenolic on any day. I cannot put a dent in the stuff with my fingernail. The only way anybody can really tell that is it deifferent is when they start cutting and stock removal. Personally I like the fact that it cuts and sands easier. My comparison would be solely to any other form of G-10. Using wood as a comparison is like comparing apples to wheat!!:D To be honest with you I would rather use a linen laminate from you than buy the storemade stuff if it is easier to work and shape.

I just ordered two of the "new" AF tigerstripe uniforms, and have a couple unserviceable BDU pants layin around. I still wanna send the stuff to you so you can make a couple billets for me. Lemme know how many layers I would have to compile for you to make a 1/4" and a 3/8" billet. Whatever's easier for you. Or, I could just mail off said offending pants to you (clean of course) and you could hack em up however you want. The Army digi camo would look pretty cool too. Shoot me a PM so we can talk offline. Thanks!!


Tim
 
Tim,
Regarding the BDU strips it might be easiest for me to cut them up...my setup makes it pretty simple to cut the right size.

Also, I did some felt twists that came out looking a lot like the AF tigerstripe stuff.

Thanks for the clarification on what "soft" means.:)

Todd
 
well, I have been so busy with a construction project I've been slacking- but here's a trout and fowl that I'm in the middle of bluing up, done with the greenish yarn sample. came out pretty camo so far. everyone in the house and at the worksite love the way the phenolic is coming out.

shadetree-1.jpg


most of the finishing is taking the material down to 320 and then using steel wool.

the fuzziness goes away pretty fast at 240 grit hand sanding, it still feels softer somehow than the harder plastics I've used, but I don't know how to describe the feeling. less glassy? the knife is plenty comfortable
 
Sweet! looks cool!

It does have different feel to it...so I know what you mean.

Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it. Seems like people really like the yarn stuff and others really don't like it.

I'd love to see more pics.

Thanks again!
 
As far as the soft vs. hard bit, I think maybe what people mean is "gummy" or "less rigid". I've seen quite a bit of Butch's handle material, as well as the pieces you sent him before. The difference IMHO is that I could take your scales and flex them in my hands quite easily. A piece of Butch's mycarta in the same cross section wouldn't flex if I put it in a vise and pulled on it. Same for real Micarta.

Just my $.02

-d
 
I agree and would like to add that even tho some of the things I have made does flex (esp. the yarns) they are still what I would consider to be hard. I cannot put a dent into it without out assistance of some sort of tool.

It is a strange contradiction. I think it is the substrate material and not the epoxy. The carbon fiber, fiberglass, burlap and denim do not have the amount of flex you mention. The epoxy that is squished out has rubbery feel to it, esp. for the first day or so. It does harden with time, but not rock hard so to speak. I think that is the quality that gives it some impact resistance.

Also, I have gotten feedback and observed myself that care must be taken when using compound on a buffing wheel...the compound can be forced into the material, esp with the felts and yarns.

I suppose that this may be one for personal inclination. I feel, and some of the feedback I have gotten is that it is somewhat easier to sand and when it is on a knife, it may not make a big difference. Some guys really seem to like it, other refuse to use it.

Thanks for the feedback deker, I appreciate it
 
more pics when I get the straw bales stacked :)

I think there are times where I'd want the "harder" feel and times where the yarn is great, Turns out that my wife is in love with the yarn based stuff and has decided- er, is politely asking- that the bird and trout be hers, mostly because of that feel.

I've got a baby skinner to do with the maroon stuff as well.
 
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