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shaping blades?
- Thread starter Petie
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- Oct 30, 2002
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I used to do a lot of my heavy, very rough cutting with an angle grinder and cut off disk. It's much, much faster than a dremel (and much, much louder) and then you can switch to a grinding disc for getting things close. Then you can use files.
--nathan
--nathan
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- Oct 27, 2005
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Drill a series of holes all the way around the blade profile and then use your cutoff wheel or a hacksaw to connect all of the holes, until the blade is cut free from the rest of the stock. This will save a bunch of time. It leaves you with a very rough up and down toothed pattern around the profile of the blade, but that can easily be filed or ground down.
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- Sep 28, 2005
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I have a drillpress and dremel -drilling holes around is tedious but saves time and money on cut off wheels. 6 hours to cut out a short hatchet, vs 2 hrs for a naginata blade.
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I can't imaging sitting with a dremel and cutting through all that metal with those itty bitty cutoff wheels. I'd almost rather hack saw it 
. Angle grinders can be had fairly cheap new, and dirt cheap at pawn/thrift shops and garage sales, and the wheels are cheap and last several blades. Same for the grinding discs. It' saved me a ton of time until I stepped up to a mounted portaband. In fact, it was probably faster still than the bandsaw, but I like the control and clean cut of the bandsaw.
--nathan
. Angle grinders can be had fairly cheap new, and dirt cheap at pawn/thrift shops and garage sales, and the wheels are cheap and last several blades. Same for the grinding discs. It' saved me a ton of time until I stepped up to a mounted portaband. In fact, it was probably faster still than the bandsaw, but I like the control and clean cut of the bandsaw.--nathan
You can turn a hand held belt sander upside down in a vice, or clamp to the bench. Don't run the sander for a long time continuously, though. I burned one up one time, but it was running for nearly an hour straight. I've seen some really beautiful knives that were made with a hand belt sander. The belt heat up quickly, so you can't bear down on them, or you'll loose all the grit.
You can also get a sanding wheel for your drill. I think they take 5 or 6 inch sand paper disks, or you can use sand paper and spray adhesive. This is probably easier than an angle grinder and not so loud. It also prevents you from making booboos like with an angle grinder. If you want to use an angle grinder, consider stacked sandpaper wheels. I really like using them because they take material off at a slower rate than a hard disk.
Good luck,
BJ
You can also get a sanding wheel for your drill. I think they take 5 or 6 inch sand paper disks, or you can use sand paper and spray adhesive. This is probably easier than an angle grinder and not so loud. It also prevents you from making booboos like with an angle grinder. If you want to use an angle grinder, consider stacked sandpaper wheels. I really like using them because they take material off at a slower rate than a hard disk.
Good luck,
BJ
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- Dec 2, 1999
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You should just buy a metal cutting bandsaw.
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- Sep 28, 2005
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Not always a viable option due to spatial constraints, living quarters or financial needs. If one is going full time, sure, but speaking for myself I just can't swing a metal cutting bandsaw in the near future.
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- Dec 2, 1999
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How about having somebody cut out a good supply of blanks. Great Lakes Waterjet would be happy to do that, or another maker with a saw.
If I had to cut out my blanks with a dremel and a hack saw I would find another hobby.
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2004
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- 678
I will cut out a blade or a few blades if you can scribe an outline on your
D2 or you could glue a paper outline.That will give you something to work on
while you are up-grading your equipment. E-mail me if that interests you
t_megow@yahoo.com
D2 or you could glue a paper outline.That will give you something to work on
while you are up-grading your equipment. E-mail me if that interests you
t_megow@yahoo.com
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2008
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- 4,076
I've really been seriously considering this route. I'm just getting into knifemaking as well, and it's become clear to me that I've been spending an awful lot of time just getting barstock into profile. As for me, I'm concentrating on three basic models, so I suspect it would make sense for me to have a batch of blanks cut out/handles "drilled" etc, and then I can add my (ahem) craftsmanship to grind the bevels and so forth. If you only make a knife a month this probably wouldn't be worth it, but... I'm sure you can see the advantage to it.
Purists would likely say "it's not a sole-authorship knife" but to me, as long as I'M the one who sets the bevels and finishes the knife, I would still call it handmade.
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- Jun 11, 2006
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i also used that method when i started, works ok. I also could do a rough profile for you
I am about ready to do this i will let you guy know how it works
NWA
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I don't know if ya'll have ever tried this, but I use a router table with a carbide burr installed. This is a fantastic way to do the final clean up on the edges of the steel,(with a straight cut burr) it also works great for hogging off material (with a diamond cut burr). A word of warning though, make sure you cover up your arms and hands good, those little shards of steel are sharp and seem to get everywhere if you let em. Also don't forget the glasses.
Give it a try if you can, it really saves time.
Nick
Give it a try if you can, it really saves time.
Nick