Shapton glass or pro stones?

I too was looking at getting some Shapton glass stones, but for my EdgePro. I decided since I can cut M390 with the factory stones and polish tapes get me the refined edge I like, I didn't need them. I profile on diamond stones anyway so I may not know what's really happening at the micron level, but my knives get sharp.
 
Sulaco said:
I too was looking at getting some Shapton glass stones, but for my EdgePro. I decided since I can cut M390 with the factory stones and polish tapes get me the refined edge I like, I didn't need them. I profile on diamond stones anyway so I may not know what's really happening at the micron level, but my knives get sharp.
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You don't really "need" anything other than the standard EP stones and tapes.

I got on quite well with the basics for a couple of years.

I finally upgraded to ATOMA and DMT diamond plates, and Shapton stones because they gave me more flexibility in polishing my edges, and the ability to do the job with far less work. This is especially appreciated on the high alloy steels.
 
Hello! New to the forum.This is the most interesting information I've read on sharpening, very deep. I sharpen mostly woodworking blades. I have a new set of 1000, 5000, 8000, 12000 shapton pro stones, and an atoma 400 diamond plate for flattening and dressing.
I'm currently flattening the back of a large timber frame chisel made by Barr. They are hand forged, not sure what type of steel. I easily flatten on the 1000 with a consistent scratch pattern, but the 5000 cloggs quickly along the edge of the stone, and is very sticky. And it's difficult to remove the 1000 scratches. The blade is 2"wide and I'm flattening 1" back from the cutting edge, so lots of material to remove. Never heard of doping, maybe that would help. Perhaps I could use a stone in the 3000 range. Any thoughts will be appreciated.
 
Sadden said:
Hey Ben. I think you and I have similar tastes.

To clear up what i said earlier. I'm simply saying that the Glass and the Pro stones have the same limitations , in that neither one of them can cut Vanadium Carbide found in many modern steels. This means that whether you use the Glass or the Pro you will still have the limiting factor in that when the Carbide size of the steel exceeds the size of your abrasive you wont be able to take that edge any further without the help of CBN/Diamond. In the lower grits the Glass will certainly cut faster than the Pro , as the Glass releases more abrasive at a quicker rate. But the Glass also wear out faster than the Pro as a result.

On a scale of 1-10 for handling high Carbide steels.

Waterstones are a 1
Pro is a 1.5
Glasstones are a 2
Monocrystalline Diamond is a 8
CBN is a 9
Polycrystalline Diamond is a 10

Put a drop of CBN/Diamond on a Pro stone and the glass stones and the glass stones barely register on the scale. Not to say that you can't dope the glasstones. You and I need to Skype sometime buddy and chat about sharpening.
Click to expand...
I posted the following in this old discussion. You make some interesting points.

Hello! New to the forum.This is the most interesting information I've read on sharpening, very deep. I sharpen mostly woodworking blades. I have a new set of 1000, 5000, 8000, 12000 shapton pro stones, and an atoma 400 diamond plate for flattening and dressing.
I'm currently flattening the back of a large timber frame chisel made by Barr. They are hand forged, not sure what type of steel. I easily flatten on the 1000 with a consistent scratch pattern, but the 5000 cloggs quickly along the edge of the stone, and is very sticky. And it's difficult to remove the 1000 scratches. The blade is 2"wide and I'm flattening 1" back from the cutting edge, so lots of material to remove. Never heard of doping, maybe that would help. Perhaps I could use a stone in the 3000 range. Any thoughts will be appreciated
 
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