Shapton vs naniwa

G

Gradyw

Joined
Jan 23, 2017
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Anyone have any feedback on these stones? What are the pros and cons? Going to buy one of the sets to start with on sharpening supplies thinking ab the shapton set with 500 grit 2000 grit 16k but looks like I can get more for about the same price from naniwa.. what are your thofughts ppl!?
 
Which version of the shapton stones? I have the a few shapton pros they are hard fast stones that are slow to dish and the other good thing is they are splash and go. I only have one Naniwa stone and its the green brick which I think is okay but shapton is better.
 
I assume you are referring to the Shapton Glass stones. It really is a preference choice. The Shaptons are as stated, "splash & go". What's left out is that you must CONTINUE to splash. Not terrible. Just keep a spray bottle. They don't build up a slurry as quickly as the Naniwas will. The Shaptons will last longer as they do not dish as quickly. The con is, flattening a Shapton is more difficult when they do dish. I prefer the Shapton Glass stones. I find they leave a nicer finish. But results can vary.
 
Any advice on what to get? I have a spyderco ultra fine I can mix in with them.. looking to save as much as possible while trying to get the mirror finish
 
I have 6 Shaptons; 220, 500, 1000, 2000, 4000, and 8000. I bought them as a set. When I use them, I only use the first 4. The edge off the 2000 stone is more than adequate for my needs. I heard that the Spyderco UF is around 1700.
 
That shapton glass setup with the 500, 2k and 16k mesh is not designed for a mirror finish. Its designed to give the professional working cook/chef a polished toothy edge that well afford them the balance of a precision edge with the "bite" and longevity of a more aggressive edge for cutting ingredients.

If all you seek is a mirror finish and the fastest,cheapest way to do it, get a work sharp belt sharpener.

just understand that high polished edges are not the zenith of performance.

We can geek out on the subtle differences between the naniwa and shapton but realistically you have to think of them like coke and pepsi neither blows the other out of the water it just comes down to which subtleties suit ones preferences.
 
DeadboxHero said:
That shapton glass setup with the 500, 2k and 16k mesh is not designed for a mirror finish. Its designed to give the professional working cook/chef a polished toothy edge that well afford them the balance of a precision edge with the "bite" and longevity of a more aggressive edge for cutting ingredients.

If all you seek is a mirror finish and the fastest,cheapest way to do it, get a work sharp belt sharpener.

just understand that high polished edges are not the zenith of performance.

We can geek out on the subtle differences between the naniwa and shapton but realistically you have to think of them like coke and pepsi neither blows the other out of the water it just comes down to which subtleties suit ones preferences.
Click to expand...

Don't think I could have said it much better.

My recommendation is the Atoma 140, Shapton Glass 500 and 2000. A LOT can be accomplished with those three stones.
 
Jason your actually the one that got me looking st these seeing all the post with those recommended.. really the mirror for finishing blades not just the edges.. would the ultra fine spyderco for in that set at all? I have a set of dmts but my love for knives and sharpening won't let me stop there
 
Jason B. said:
Don't think I could have said it much better.

My recommendation is the Atoma 140, Shapton Glass 500 and 2000. A LOT can be accomplished with those three stones.
Click to expand...

Im actually borrowing a Shapton set up from a friend. I like that 140,500,2k setup alot. Especially the field stone holder. Very tasteful product design. The overall package is very refined and efficient. Thats a great grit range for the Naniwa Professional stones too with the 400 and 2k or the 600 and 2k.

love that grit jump

super underrated.

Everyone wants to jump high to 3k-6k but there is just such elegance in only using 2 stones and getting the best balance in properties.
 
I have Shapton glass. What I usually use, CKTG 140, 320, 500 sometimes 1000.
4K and 6K for mirror edges. I'd like to add a 2K.
 
Btw I'm not interested in a worksharp. I have a belt sander with everything I need i guess I just like freehandjng a lot more.. so tell me after the 2k what else do I need haha
 
hahaha nah, you don't NEED the Shapton Glass stones to make a nice edge, they are a luxury item, they are nice to have and can be enjoyable in use but there not going to make you an instant "sharpening stud"

it perfectly fine to use lower end stuff.
 
Yea I get that I got a set of dmts that work great with the uf spyderco to end it off.. dk why I have became so ubsessed with waterstones or I guess anything else other then diamond stones. I think it's the mirror finish I want to start putting on some of my blades.. not just the edge but the bevel too.. looks badass and it is tax time so I can waste a couple hundred on something completely unnessary
 
I do have one more question though.. Jason recommends the atoms 140 then the 500 shapton.. will the 500 take out all the scratches from the 120? Will the 140 aroma flatten the aromas when they start to dish? Fuck spending almost 400 on a lapping plate
 
I suppose you now have all the great advice you need.
I would add :
The ultra fine Spyderco seems finer than 1700, at least the way it feels in use and the final edge it puts on. I would say it is the equivaltnet result as a higher grit . . . bellow 4000 Shapton glass but not much . . . or . . . similar to a Norton 8000 yellow water stone. Personally I alternate between the two : I try the ultra fine for touch up or final edge and if it is still leaving some wire edge I go right to the Norton 8000 to get rid of the wire edge (because the Norton is softer and has loose grit the Ultra Fine won't) ; this works best on softer stainless steels. The Ultra fine is great on the higher quality higher hardness high alloy steels M390 and M4 (only as a final right on the edge stone) not for a wide surface bevel though.

As far as polishing the bevel I would say do what I do and go with a guided system such as Edge Pro with Shapton
but since you want to go free hand . . .
for a wide bevel it is going to be tough to do free hand and get great results . . . hence what sets Jason B. apart from the rest of us (he can do this free hand/I/you may not) . . . so for the wide bevel mirror probably the mouse pad and sand paper such as wet or dry, many grits, is the best way to go. Fairly inexpensive as well.

Not the best cutting geometry in my opinion but you get the pretty. You want pretty AND best cutting geometry then . . . well you send it to Jason . . . right ?
 
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