How about wrapping a round bar with abrasive paper and using it as a croc stick of sorts? I have at times in the past used a steel pipe (held in a vise) and SiC paper for quick sharpening of larger kitchen knives. You can use push and strop motions, easy to keep the angle, etc. Only "problem" is, the scratch pattern will not be straight.
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sharpen experiment edge leading/trailing
- Thread starter Cliff Stamp
- Start date
Cliff Stamp
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- Oct 5, 1998
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- 17,562
I have updated the table with improved results, however I still don't think the last three are optimal. I have tried edge into on the papers three times and the results are not close to optimal. I have tried backing them on glass, wood and steel.
The next time I am going to try them edge trailing. I also think the chromium\aluminum oxide paper slicing aggression is too low, that can be improved. This is when it would be nice to live next to Alvin Johnson, Ben Dale or Jeff Clark.
I have a 8" x-coarse dmt benchstone and a fine benchstone and a diafold fine/x-fine, plus a fine dmt tapered rod and large 12" rod, the rods were not used in the above. I rarely use the x-coarse, a silicon carbide waterstone is faster, however it will convex the edge as it wears so fast.
-Cliff
The next time I am going to try them edge trailing. I also think the chromium\aluminum oxide paper slicing aggression is too low, that can be improved. This is when it would be nice to live next to Alvin Johnson, Ben Dale or Jeff Clark.
I have a 8" x-coarse dmt benchstone and a fine benchstone and a diafold fine/x-fine, plus a fine dmt tapered rod and large 12" rod, the rods were not used in the above. I rarely use the x-coarse, a silicon carbide waterstone is faster, however it will convex the edge as it wears so fast.
-Cliff
- Joined
- Apr 27, 1999
- Messages
- 6,117
Although I do my primary sharpening edge-forwards I have been experimenting with a final step stropping edge-trailing on diamond paste. I fully sharpen and debur working up to an UF ceramic finish. Then I strop on 1 micron and .5 micron diamond paste. The intent is to remove very little material, but to cut even hard carbides to shape. I strop on a rather stiff smooth material. I have been using Epson photo paper or polyester View Graph material supported by a pad of bond writing paper. The idea is to have a little complience to help match angles, but enough stiffness in the top layer to avoid wrapping around the edge and increasing the final edge angle. I also use extremely light pressure during this honing. Using the paste there is no chance of the edge of some abrasive paper degrading the edge.
I got my start using a kit from a local Woodcraft store that was intended for polishing chisel blades. It includes a handy 6" diamond hone as well. There are lots of grits to experiment with.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4666
I have moved on to trying finer grits as well. The .5 micron does seem to work very nicely. It particularly worked well on alloys that have given me some trouble. I would expect it to help out on S30V.
I got my start using a kit from a local Woodcraft store that was intended for polishing chisel blades. It includes a handy 6" diamond hone as well. There are lots of grits to experiment with.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4666
I have moved on to trying finer grits as well. The .5 micron does seem to work very nicely. It particularly worked well on alloys that have given me some trouble. I would expect it to help out on S30V.