Sharpen S110V using a Ken Onion Work Sharp? Also, Native 5 vs. Manix 2 LW

Your preferred?

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Sharpbladeofsteel

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May 3, 2017
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I am trying to decide on either a Native 5 or Manix 2 in LW, with S110, but I keep reading how much of a bitch it is to sharpen. I brought my VG 10 Endura back to shaving sharp from a completely abused and beat up edge (will never happen again) using the Work Sharp, after weeks of minimal success with my Sharpmaker, so I feel pretty confident I have a good tool for the job to keep the S110 sharp. Anyone have experience with this steel and a Work Sharp?

And since I'm on the subject, I know these have been compared ad nauseam, but looking for any new impressions on the two. I have a Zome green Delica 4 which I love, but I'm looking to add something a little different to the collection. I like the small size of the Native 5 for another EDC option, but I'm worried it might be trying to fill a niche already filled by the Delica. The Manix 2 seems a little big for work as far as scary factor but light enough and reasonable for outside of work use. Does the Manix 2 LW feel bigger in the pocket than an Endura? Same? Smaller?
 
I have the work sharp, but not that steel. The only possible difference between steels for the worksharp would be wear on the belt, because the abrasives used are that much harder than any steel. I'd go for it, whether it is 14C28N or ZDP-189.

With the worksharp, you can make your own belts too, if you want to try that. I made mine portable and made my own belts since the provided ones have too big of a step difference in grit. Very flexible device (if you don't mind voiding the warranty).
 
The native 5 is similar but still different than the delica. It can be viewed as a beefed up delica more intended for hard use, IMO. I currently carry a delica but really miss my native 5 s110v now, what a nice knife. I really found I have a strong preference for the finger choil of the native 5. The blade is also a touch thicker but the cutting edge is shorter because of the finger choil. I'll get another native 5 once I get my hands on a chaparral.

The manix 2 is a beefy knife that screams hard use. I personally didn't care for the lock mechanism as it was just too stiff and didn't lighten up much for me. It's also pretty big in pocket. Ergos are fantastic and the blade shape is nice for all-purpose use. I don't have an endura but I imagine the manix 2 will feel thicker than the endura. I should also mention that I had the G10 manix 2 and I'm not sure how much thinner the LW version is but it should be a lot lighter so it might better fit EDC use.
 
Very helpful thoughts on the differences between all 3, leaning toward the Native. I keep a slim profile wallet in the same pocket as my knife (front right) so being able to get at that easily is important.
 
Cutlover said:
I have the work sharp, but not that steel. The only possible difference between steels for the worksharp would be wear on the belt, because the abrasives used are that much harder than any steel. I'd go for it, whether it is 14C28N or ZDP-189.

With the worksharp, you can make your own belts too, if you want to try that. I made mine portable and made my own belts since the provided ones have too big of a step difference in grit. Very flexible device (if you don't mind voiding the warranty).
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Thanks that is helpful and encouraging. Great idea on making my own belts. I'll look into that. What kind of grit would you use for these harder steels? Finish with the same one provided with the W Sharp or what? I guess I could do some research on that as well.
 
if you get a worksharp it will only do convex grinds. this is not for everyone or every knife, so thats up to you to decide if you want that.

the s110v will likely need you to purchase diamond belts. the diamond belts are really nice, not too expensive either and last a decent while before they wear out.

im not a fan of the work sharp at all, i would not recommend it. it seems like its easy but it takes lots of practice to overcome many issues people have with it. i bought it because i thought it would be easy... but id rather have a belt sander than the worksharp tbo.
 
RLDubbya said:
The Work Sharp with its standard belts zips through S110V quickly. No worries there, I use it to sharpen the Manix LW.
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Awesome, the work sharp wasn't too difficult for me to get the hang of so I think I'll be alright. It does take a certain technique for sure. I've found it works better when I've had a little bourbon or some good beer! (Steady hand and more patience?)

I think the only problem I have now is deciding which knife to get...first.
 
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Since you've got the Ken Onion version I'd also recommend getting the blade grinder attachment. Takes a little more skill to use, but you can get much better results.

I prefer the Native to the Manix, though I wouldn't bother with s110v. It's a huge step up from the CTS-BD1 on the manix, but only a marginal improvement over s35vn in my opinion.
 
Sharpbladeofsteel said:
Thanks that is helpful and encouraging. Great idea on making my own belts. I'll look into that. What kind of grit would you use for these harder steels? Finish with the same one provided with the W Sharp or what? I guess I could do some research on that as well.
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Honestly, any metal abrasive (silicon carbide for example) will work, the only thing different abrasives will change is the belt longevity.

I would go with the smallest step grit progression though, that will give you the best edge.

I am modifying my work sharp, but I have sandpaper grits of 1k, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, and 5000, and will make belts out of those. The honing belt provided seems sufficient, but there is a 3rd party leather belt as well which I will try.

Once modifications are all done i'll post the results (hopefully by the weekend in the sharpening forum). In the meantime, good luck with your sharpening (I have original btw).
 
I actually have sharpened my Manix 2 in S110v (i have the G10 version) on my KO-WS. It sharpened and "cut steel" with no problem.
S110v takes a beautiful polished edge too.

What I will say, is that even adjusting it to 15DPS, it was just not as sharp as from the factory... i can't figure out why not because 15dps is pretty damned steep by any standard, but it would juuuust barely shave arm hair, and leave plenty behind, whereas from the factory it would leave a nice clean patch with one swipe down the arm.

I switched to the Sharpmaker at 15dps and it's back to being very sharp again (although still not as sharp as I'd like, but that's ok). For whatever it's worth, that's my experience.
 
T.L.E. Sharp said:
Since you've got the Ken Onion version I'd also recommend getting the blade grinder attachment. Takes a little more skill to use, but you can get much better results.

I prefer the Native to the Manix, though I wouldn't bother with s110v. It's a huge step up from the CTS-BD1 on the manix, but only a marginal improvement over s35vn in my opinion.
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I think I would be perfectly happy with the s35vn, BUT I really like that blue handle. I'd be happy to pay $30 less for that handle with s35. I'll have to look into that grinder attachment.
 
Cutlover said:
Honestly, any metal abrasive (silicon carbide for example) will work, the only thing different abrasives will change is the belt longevity.

I would go with the smallest step grit progression though, that will give you the best edge.

I am modifying my work sharp, but I have sandpaper grits of 1k, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, and 5000, and will make belts out of those. The honing belt provided seems sufficient, but there is a 3rd party leather belt as well which I will try.

Once modifications are all done i'll post the results (hopefully by the weekend in the sharpening forum). In the meantime, good luck with your sharpening (I have original btw).
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I appreciate all the above info, that will definitely be helpful. Look forward to those results.
 
19-3ben said:
I actually have sharpened my Manix 2 in S110v (i have the G10 version) on my KO-WS. It sharpened and "cut steel" with no problem.
S110v takes a beautiful polished edge too.

What I will say, is that even adjusting it to 15DPS, it was just not as sharp as from the factory... i can't figure out why not because 15dps is pretty damned steep by any standard, but it would juuuust barely shave arm hair, and leave plenty behind, whereas from the factory it would leave a nice clean patch with one swipe down the arm.

I switched to the Sharpmaker at 15dps and it's back to being very sharp again (although still not as sharp as I'd like, but that's ok). For whatever it's worth, that's my experience.
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Interesting and good to know. I wonder if using different grits as Cutlover mentioned would help?
 
19-3ben said:
I actually have sharpened my Manix 2 in S110v (i have the G10 version) on my KO-WS. It sharpened and "cut steel" with no problem.
S110v takes a beautiful polished edge too.

What I will say, is that even adjusting it to 15DPS, it was just not as sharp as from the factory... i can't figure out why not because 15dps is pretty damned steep by any standard, but it would juuuust barely shave arm hair, and leave plenty behind, whereas from the factory it would leave a nice clean patch with one swipe down the arm.

I switched to the Sharpmaker at 15dps and it's back to being very sharp again (although still not as sharp as I'd like, but that's ok). For whatever it's worth, that's my experience.
Click to expand...

I have a Ken Onion work sharp and I have similar results. My strategy is I get it most of the way with the work sharp, about 90% done, then strop on a leather belt and finish with a ceramic rod, last 10% by hand. That brings back the clean shave vs. rough shave. YMMV
 
When sharpening a factory edge on the WS you are essentially reprofiling the bevel from V to convex.
Make absolutely sure you have a full length bur with your first belt.
With the WS the wire edge can be large and flop around. Even though this breaks off easily, you can still be left with a micro wire edge. Make sure it's completely removed. Magnification helps. The edge should be shaving sharp after the finest belt, but I usualy strop on a leather wheel or hand strop.
 
S110V vs WSKO chronicled here: http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/s110v-and-worksharp.1426734/
My PM2 burple came out pretty good!
IMO, the Native 5 LW is hard to beat, unless you just need more knife. I've missed mine since gifting it to a relative.
I just got a Manix 2LW, and I'm kinda luke warm to it--but mostly because of the other knives I have to fill this niche. If your intended use is more work related, go Manix. If more EDC related, go Native 5. You can get the Manix 2LW in Xhp or in S90V (dealer exclusives). S110V in my limited experience has been a bit chippy, but able to hold a working edge for a long time.
 
4mer_FMF said:
S110V vs WSKO chronicled here: http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/s110v-and-worksharp.1426734/
My PM2 burple came out pretty good!
IMO, the Native 5 LW is hard to beat, unless you just need more knife. I've missed mine since gifting it to a relative.
I just got a Manix 2LW, and I'm kinda luke warm to it--but mostly because of the other knives I have to fill this niche. If your intended use is more work related, go Manix. If more EDC related, go Native 5. You can get the Manix 2LW in Xhp or in S90V (dealer exclusives). S110V in my limited experience has been a bit chippy, but able to hold a working edge for a long time.
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Very helpful thread. The more I read the less I want s110v. I just really wish the s35v came with a blue handle, but at least it's cheaper. I feel like black is the worst possible color for an FRN handle. First world problems I guess!
 
Sharpbladeofsteel said:
Very helpful thread. The more I read the less I want s110v. I just really wish the s35v came with a blue handle, but at least it's cheaper. I feel like black is the worst possible color for an FRN handle. First world problems I guess!
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I do not have a WS, but I will mirror the advice that was put forth in the other thread - if going to a higher polish use diamond belts or finish by hand with a diamond or CbN strop, plate or film. At a rougher finish any of the common abrasives will work well enough. I use a little water on my diamond belts and only for a quick bit of final finishing, they last a long time.
 
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