Sharpen Sebenza S35VN and S45VN

d.cutting.edge

d.cutting.edge

Joined
Mar 24, 2021
Messages
77
Hello,

I've been using my Spyderco Sharpmaker for all my knives including Emersons, Terzuolo, and Spyderco's. Kitchen knives too. Before my Sharpmaker I tried free handing with stones and just never did well.

Now I have a few Chris Reeve Sebenzas. Both large and small. I tried to touch up one with the Sharpmaker and it just didn't look or feel right. Ended up sending it back to Chris Reeve for a resharpen back to factory specs.

My question is whether there is a better system or way to sharpen Sebenzas. Thank you for any insight and suggestions. Much appreciated!
 
You will get a variety of answers, you are going to have to investigate a sharpening system and become proficient with it. . I personally use my Edge Pro with diamond stones to sharpen my Sebenza’s, sometimes rarely touch up freehand. I get very nice edges using the EP, so I use it on those knives where I want my best edge. But like all means of sharpening, there was a learning curve.
 
ecallahan said:
You will get a variety of answers, you are going to have to investigate a sharpening system and become proficient with it. . I personally use my Edge Pro with diamond stones to sharpen my Sebenza’s, sometimes rarely touch up freehand. I get very nice edges using the EP, so I use it on those knives where I want my best edge. But like all means of sharpening, there was a learning curve.
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Thank you! Yes there are lots of different systems out there and I will do my homework. Your personal experience with the Edge Pro and Sebenza's is very helpful. I just went to their website and saw two different kits: Apex and Professional. Which one do you use? Thank you!
 
d.cutting.edge said:
I have a few Chris Reeve Sebenzas. Both large and small. I tried to touch up one with the Sharpmaker and it just didn't look or feel right. Ended up sending it back to Chris Reeve for a resharpen back to factory specs.

My question is whether there is a better system or way to sharpen Sebenzas.
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Didn't Chris Reeve used to recommend the sharpmaker (and a strop?) for maintaining CRKs? Pretty sure there was even a section on the website about it. (Could be gone, if that recommendation has changed)
Perhaps you need to upgrade to cbn or diamond sticks, to keep up with the steel & hardness changes. Maybe you let the edge degrade to much before maintaining...or, since you mentioned using it on many knives - including kitchen knives, which tend to be softer - perhaps the rods are just loaded & need to be cleaned.
If you want to buy a new sharpening system, don't let me dissuade you; but, if you've been happy with the sharpmaker, consider the simple, less expensive options first.
 
hhmoore said:
Didn't Chris Reeve used to recommend the sharpmaker (and a strop?) for maintaining CRKs? Pretty sure there was even a section on the website about it. (Could be gone, if that recommendation has changed)
Perhaps you need to upgrade to cbn or diamond sticks, to keep up with the steel & hardness changes. Maybe you let the edge degrade to much before maintaining...or, since you mentioned using it on many knives - including kitchen knives, which tend to be softer - perhaps the rods are just loaded & need to be cleaned.
If you want to buy a new sharpening system, don't let me dissuade you; but, if you've been happy with the sharpmaker, consider the simple, less expensive options first.
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Yes. I asked them by email and they still recommend the Sharpmaker. I have an original Sharpmaker that I use for kitchen knives only now, and a current Sharpmaker with fresh rods/stones for my knives with harder steels. I get your point about less expensive options because I'd rather put my money into knives rather than sharpeners. I'll keep looking around for now as my Sebenzas are pretty new and the edges are still sharp. Thank you!
 
If you use a sharpie to help in the sharpening process, it will help you to see if you’re getting to the apex of the edge. Also remember that CRK’s have a slight convex edge and takes some effort to make it a true vee grind. There are some good videos that show how to sharpen a convex edge if you want to keep it.
 
Diamond hones are, by far, the easiest solution for CRK's blades. I have an older Sebenza Classic 2000 model in S30V. Although something like a Sharpmaker's standard ceramic rods can be used to maintain a serviceable edge on them, eventually a little more will be needed to restore sharpness to it's fullest potential. The vanadium carbides in the steel will benefit more from the diamond or cbn, than from the alumina ceramics, which aren't hard enough to fully refine those carbides at the edge. With just the medium & fine ceramics, the edge eventually becomes a little too burnished/polished and will lose some bite. That's where the diamond or cbn can quickly restore it.

I can easily see that a Sharpmaker set, with included diamond or cbn rods, could be a pretty good solution. CRK's blade grinds, at least in the example of my Sebenza, are nicely thin and therefore easily and quickly touched up on something like the SM with diamond or cbn. And if a little more thinning is desired behind the edge, diamond/cbn will make that much, much easier.
 
Ajack60 said:
If you use a sharpie to help in the sharpening process, it will help you to see if you’re getting to the apex of the edge. Also remember that CRK’s have a slight convex edge and takes some effort to make it a true vee grind. There are some good videos that show how to sharpen a convex edge if you want to keep it.
Click to expand...
I think I ran into the convex edge issue on my attempt with the Sharpmaker. It just didn't look right and I thought couldn't match the angle. I'm doing my homework with videos and definitely will look for info on keeping the convex edge. Thank you!
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Diamond hones are, by far, the easiest solution for CRK's blades. I have an older Sebenza Classic 2000 model in S30V. Although something like a Sharpmaker's standard ceramic rods can be used to maintain a serviceable edge on them, eventually a little more will be needed to restore sharpness to it's fullest potential. The vanadium carbides in the steel will benefit more from the diamond or cbn, than from the alumina ceramics, which aren't hard enough to fully refine those carbides at the edge. With just the medium & fine ceramics, the edge eventually becomes a little too burnished/polished and will lose some bite. That's where the diamond or cbn can quickly restore it.

I can easily see that a Sharpmaker set, with included diamond or cbn rods, could be a pretty good solution. CRK's blade grinds, at least in the example of my Sebenza, are nicely thin and therefore easily and quickly touched up on something like the SM with diamond or cbn. And if a little more thinning is desired behind the edge, diamond/cbn will make that much, much easier.
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I only have the standard ceramic rods and am just learning about diamond and cbn rods here on this thread. Thank you!
 
I don’t have the natural ability to sharpen free handed. I can maintain free handed, but have to even out the edges every so often. I like and use the KME guided system even though I’ve got a Wicked Edge. It’s just more convenient with the KME. They have a rod for convex edges. I’ve never used it, so I don’t have any experience with it.
 
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Ajack60 said:
I don’t have the natural ability to sharpen free handed. I can maintain free handed, but have to even out the edges every so often. I like and use the KME guided system even though I’ve got a Wicked Edge. It’s just more convenient with the KME. They have a rod for cover edges. I’ve never used it, so I don’t have any experience with it.
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I think the Wicked Edge is out of my price range so I'm glad to hear you have both and prefer the KME. Thank you!
 
I generally use the edge pro, or free hand it, and the sharp maker just to keep things sharp and cutting then strop , in the beginning when I got my CRK's I was afraid of its convex edge! but now I'm a old hand at it;)
 
blanex1 said:
I generally use the edge pro, or free hand it, and the sharp maker just to keep things sharp and cutting then strop , in the beginning when I got my CRK's I was afraid of its convex edge! but now I'm a old hand at it;)
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The Edge Pro and KME seem like good choices beyond the Sharpmaker. Are you using the Edge Pro Apex or Professional? Thank you!
 
I only have a single CRK, a Mnandi, in S35v and I have used Spyderco bench stones, an old Spyderco Sharpmaker and a Worksharp KO edition. They all worked well, the benchstones were fine as long as I got the angle correct on the benchstones. I like my old Sharpmaker, the one with only the 30 degree rod holes, and the benchstones. In both cases I have the medium, fine and ultra fine stones/rods.
The Worksharp does a great job but I have difficulty sharpening small knives on that one so I reserve it for larger knives.
There are many other sharpening systems out there but my experience is limited to those three systems.

They all worked well.
 
Easyrider said:
I only have a single CRK, a Mnandi, in S35v and I have used Spyderco bench stones, an old Spyderco Sharpmaker and a Worksharp KO edition. They all worked well, the benchstones were fine as long as I got the angle correct on the benchstones. I like my old Sharpmaker, the one with only the 30 degree rod holes, and the benchstones. In both cases I have the medium, fine and ultra fine stones/rods.
The Worksharp does a great job but I have difficulty sharpening small knives on that one so I reserve it for larger knives.
There are many other sharpening systems out there but my experience is limited to those three systems.

They all worked well.
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I also have one of the original 30 degree only Sharpmakers. I did look at the Worksharp but will probably leave it for now as it works very quickly and I could do some serious damage with it lol. Not good with bench stones but maybe I should give them another go at some point. Thank you!
 
d.cutting.edge said:
I also have one of the original 30 degree only Sharpmakers. I did look at the Worksharp but will probably leave it for now as it works very quickly and I could do some serious damage with it lol. Not good with bench stones but maybe I should give them another go at some point. Thank you!
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I use the sharpie trick to help me get the angle. I still need a lot of practice using benchstones but the benefit is that it is hard for me to REALLY screw up the edge by accident. The Worksharp takes a bit of practice and attention to what you are doing because you can screw up a blade with powered equipment.
 
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Easyrider said:
I use the sharpie trick to help me get the angle. I still need a lot of practice using benchstones but the benefit is thart it is hard for me to REALLY screw up the edge by accident. The Worksharp takes a bit of practice and attention to what you are doing because you can screw up a blade with powered equipment.
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Yes something between bench stones and any kind of powered wheel/sharpener will be the way for me to go for now.
 
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