Sharpener - Help me spend some money

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Saunterer

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Feb 4, 2003
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Question for the masses.

Next weekend I am making my annual pilgrimage from Kansas to North Carolina. My route takes me about 20 minutes from Smoky Mountain Knife works (and you know that I have to stop!) I've actually been there about 20 times over the past 10 years and it's actually just part of the trip. (Imagine kids and wife groaning when I exit I-40).

I'm looking for a general purpose sharpener for my EDC knives and others (such as my BK-7, Gerber BMF, Leatherman Wave, kitchen, blah blah blah). Any recommendations? I have a Lansky system (sans the diamonds), some Oxley paper wheels and some DMT stuff. I've seen folks recommend Spyderco sharpeners. What yea say?

Gotta get my funds in order before I get there.

Thanks in advance,

--Chris

BTW, long time lurker, great forums!
 
Chris,

sounds like a fun trip. I will 4th the Spyderco sharpmaker, and add that for heavier jobs such as re-profiling an edge, you may wish to consider a coarse diamond stone too.

Yes, this is a good forum. I continue to learn things even after copious surfing of this site for three years.
 
Diamond Rods and Ultra Fine rods are also available for the 204. The Diamond ones are pricey...but well worth it if you ever need to reprofile a supersteel or quickly put a workable edge on an extremely dull knife.
-Kevin
 
So...Do you know what to buy now?...(Spyderco Sharpmaker 204.)...You even get a nice video with it.:).
 
If ya really want to learn to sharpen invest in the largest quality bench hones you can afford.

Systems are great, I've got a Sharpmaker, all the way up to an EdgePro, all are great for their own reasons.

The things I always seem to grab are my Diamond Bench Hones first.

The Sharpmaker sits next to the kitchen knives along with a small diamond hone, the Lansky sits upstairs with a pocket diamond rod.

The EdgePro sits in my sharpening toolbox with my bench hones, and the bench hones are used first unless I need to seriously reprofile a blade.

Learn to sharpen freehand and the stisfaction will far outweigh any edge achieved with a sharpening system.

I know I sound like a broken record when it comes to sharpening, but I find myself sharpening more by hand with portable hones I carry in my back pocket, than anything else.

Enjoy your shopping stop, I know when I go to Country Knives in the PA Amish country, my wife and daughter usually leave me there and go out for lunch, by the time they come back I'm still looking and deciding what to get.:D :cool:
 
Well, my recomendation would be an Edge-Pro ... but SMKW doesn't carry those ... or some good water-stones ... but they don't carry those either ... the Sharpmaker is a great system though, and big diamond bench stones are always nice to have. I'm not familiar with what SMKW offers so beyond bench stones or a Sharpmaker I don't know what to reccomend. Wait, now I remember, I think that SMKW has The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening by John Juranitch, if they have it get it and a good set of bench stones, it's a very informative book on sharpening. Knowledge is more important than equipment, to a degree, when it comes to sharpening.

Edited because I'm having a bad spelling day.
 
Using a sharpmaker is not exactly easy. Really easy to knock the tips off the knives in the beginning.

The ceramic rods are amazingly effective.

Generally, I use the ceramic rods flat like a benchstone and sharpen free hand, or use a single rod to hone.

Looking forward to an edgepro professional setup.
 
Sharpmaker 204 is a good all around choice. But, depending on the bladesteel that you are trying to sharpen, you may want to also purchase a good set of Diamond Hones as well. Some of the new high tech steels (such as S30v, S60V, S90V) as well as tool steel are difficult to sharpen and the diamond hones do a more effective job. The 204 can be subsidized by a set of diamond sticks, but they are very pricey and really are designed more for profiling than finer honing.

Just an additonal consideration if what you are using is from Crucible and of the powdered or tool steel variety..

Hope this helps.
 
I guess the vote goes to the Sharpmaker. I wish you folks would not be so divided on the issue. <grin>

To T. Erdelyi: I started sharpening freehand when I was around 9 years old, and yes, it's almost a zen-like experience to pop some hairs after a freehand session.

Main reason I'm looking for a new sharpening system, is I don't like having to touch up with the Lansky (clamping on the blade, setting up the rods, scratching the spine) but for reprofiling it's not too bad. I find that using my wheels is nice and quick, but I tend to use it too often and take too much metal off my blades.

I checked out SMKW and they don't appear to have the Sharpmaker, so I guess I'll just have to buy something else. Darn. Why is life so tough?

Thanks for the input folks!

--Chris
 
Just because SMKW doesn't sell it doesn't mean you can't get it! Go to the top of your screen and click on the store link. You'll find it in there somewhere with a little looking. :)
 
I meant to say, if they don't have the Sharpmaker, I guess I'll have to buy a new blade(s), gadets, or stuff. Everytime I go there, I can't leave empty handed.
 
The Spyderco Triangular SharpMaker is the way to go if you have any serrations to sharpen. If you're regularly maintaining already sharp edges then the fine (white) stones that come with it is the one that'll be most used.

However at one time SMKW did sell their own round rod V-hone crock-sticks type sharpener - they had wood based (earlier) and plastic based ones - I have both, the plastic based ones are designed to fit the stocks under the hollow base for transportation. They used fine white rods and were very inexpensive - I bought a lot of the plastic based ones for gifts. The wooden based one is the one I use for light touch ups.

For reprofiling/grinding - I use a fine diamond stone by EZE-Lap - it's not too rough/coarse and yet removes lots of material fast - I would suggest looking at this one -
EL201.jpg

Eze-Lap® 2" x 3-1/4" Fine Grit (600) Credit Card Diamond Stone with Red Pouch
EL201 $8.99
http://eknifeworks.com/webapp/eComm...ap&category=&pattern=main_front.jsp&SKU=EL201
 
Originally posted by Sundsvall
Using a sharpmaker is not exactly easy. Really easy to knock the tips off the knives in the beginning.
Click to expand...

Can anyone elaborate on this? I have seen this mentioned a number of times and am not fully comprehending how this happens.
 
I seem to have the problem not watching my rhythm when stroking the blade. I "stab" the stick and it makes a nasty gritch noise to remind me - then I look at the blade tip and see what it did. I just need to go a little slower.
 
I have never used a sharpmaker, but I have seen the tips of knives getting dull with ceramic rods, and I think I understand what is happenning.

Suppose you are using the edges of the triangular rods, you are putting a bit of pressure on them, as you reach the tip, if you do not lift off the blade inmediatly you may get the tip to rub against the flats of the rod, thus wearing the tip a little, if you do it constantly you will get a blunt tip.

This can also happen with round rods. You have to learn to get the blade away from the rods as soon as you finish the stroke.

Another important thing is to learn to follow the curve of the belly, that is, to lift the handle as you sharpen the belly so that a tangent to the edge touching the rods is allways horizontal.

Edited for spelling.
 
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