sharpeners

wicked1 said:
best:edge pro (~$180)
darn good:spyderco sharpmaker (~$50)

Don't have a Lansky, but Wicked1 is right on with these 2. When I was a kid, I loved to freehand - but I never got an edge like I get with my EdgePro Apex.
 
Edge Pro is by far the best, I have the stones in water all the time, no problems so far. I have a Sharpmaker too, but if I steel regularly with the #1200 Edge Pro 'steel' I can avoid having to go to the Sharpmaker.

Horses for courses, but for me the E.P is the best system out there.

Got a convex? Got less than $10.00?

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I just talked to Sierra at Edge Pro, Inc. today and my new Pro Kit #3 is on its way to me! Woohoo! She was kind enough to throw in the shipment a bag of silicone carbide for straightening the coarse stone when needed. I also was able to talk to Ben about going about sharpening a couple knives I have with the Pro Kit. I can tell that this company is really customer service oriented which is good because I still will be needing replacement stones, etc. and it will be nice to talk to someone friendly and experienced on the other end of the line.
 
Chances are you will only need to replace the #120 IF you do a lot of reprofiling. My brown/red stones are still very flat.
 
Edge Pro and the people there are totally first class they are great in standing behind their product. If you ever need help or info just call them. If you're ever in Hood River stop in and see them you'll be glad you need. I spent several hours there in mid June and it passed like 10 minutes.

If you are doing heavy reprofiling you will be replacing the 120 stone frequently, I've worn one out in as little as three large Japanese cleavers. But then nothing but a DMT Diasharp XX coarse plate is faster from all I've read. (mine hasn't arrived yet on back order.) I would order a 3 or 4 unmounted 120 stones and one extra of 220, 320, and 600. The 600 probably won't wear out until you reach into the thousands of sharpenings, if then. But if you drop a stone on the floor or into the sink you can break them and it's nice to have a spare on hand.

If you flatten your stones as soon as they show the slightest sign of dishing they will last longer. To slow the dishing I mark my stone ends A and B. Sharpen with the alternate ends each time. One time with the A end close to the handle the next with the B end close to the handle. This evens out any wear and slows the process. You will have to flatten just not quite as frequently.

You won't regert getting the Edge Pro.
 
Hey QuiteOned that is a cool tip on alternating the ends when using the softer stone so that it lasts longer. BTW, sorry for the newbie question but when people talk about reprofiling is this when you change the angle of the blade's edge? I will be ordering the stones you mentioned after I receive the Edge Pro and get a feel of the unit. The Edge Pro is freakin' expensive but will be worth it when I am able to get knives so sharp that your eyes will bleed just by looking at it the edges :thumbup:. Just joking:).
 
Reprofiling can be used two ways. To change the blade shape or to change the edge angles. Usually in sharpening it is changing the edge angles to less obtuse than delivered from the dealer or factory.

A lot of blades come with edges as grotesque as 40° per side or worse which is just totally nonsense in my view of things. Hand in hand with this it seems that knives are coming out softer than need be. A lot of major "brand" name german knives I'm seeing of late are a lot softer than those manufactured 10 years ago. Why I don't have a clue. Just my opinion and your views and milage may vary.
 
It is easier to make a blade soft both from the point of view of heat treating as well as grinding/finishing. You also allow for much more sloppy practices, you can grind hotter for example and not overheat the edges, plus variations in hardness doesn't matter as much. 54-58 HRC is very different than 58-62 HRC.

-Cliff
 
I got the Edge Pro Professional Kit in on Saturday. I was able to do some practice knives in the evening. After I did my second kitchen knife I was able to sail through the third knife with ease. The last (fourth) knife took me about less than ten minutes from sort of dull to shaving with it. AWESOME. It is expensive as hell but I enjoy having my knives as sharp as I can get them. The knives are easier to use when they have a fine sharp edge to them. I found that the coarse stone is quite soft but this stone should not be used on only but the dullest blades. I can see which stones that I will be using mostly and will be putting another order in with Edge Pro for a few more stones to have on hand when needed. I was fortunate enough to have a laminated board to mount the base on and that is working out great. I am able to mount the Edge Pro on the board and move the whole unit around to what is comfortable for me.

I do have a Spydeco Sharpmaker on order for those quick touchups but I am very pleased in having the Edge Pro when I really want to work on having a great edge on my cutting tools. For years I've been looking for a great sharpener and now I've found it with Edge Pro. Now to figure out the sissors sharpening attachment...;)
 
I hate I can't sharpen none of my Benchmades with it, not my 710 nor my HK 14200 will work, they must have a superthick bevel (50º or so)...
I have both knives and use a sharpsmaker, although I haven't tried to put on a secondary bevel. I touch up my 710 or Scarab every day with it. I also own a 1420, although I haven't sharpened it yet.
Jim
 
If you only do convex sharpening the only way to go is a belt sander and various grit belts and leather. You can try the mouse pad and sandpapers and films but this is in my opinion a big step down from a belt sander. It will work but it can be very slow and it has the potential to mar good blades. A belt sander does take some practice so you don't burn blades and ruin the temper and heat treat.

just my 02, I use a slipstone or benchstone to do convex sharpening (mostly only convex edge bevels, but I've done full convex too), it works fine for me. My suggestion, as always, go old school and learn how to sharpen freehand, its a skill you'll not regret learning. here's a post about Arkansas and india stones, witch havent been mentioned yet I dont think: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4153908#post4153908

My apologies, I just read the beginning of your post and realized you were looking for a sharpening system. I would suggest you at least consider freehand.
 
Any input on the Chef'schoice 130 or the manual version? I bought one of each but haven't used them yet. The ads look great but I question the idea of drawing the blade from the rear to the tip instead of the traditional slicing motion?? Doesn't make since.:confused:
 
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