Sharpening 420HC

JM2

JM2

Joined
Mar 11, 2013
Messages
2,248
I have a Buck 192 among others, that I have been experimenting with. So far, I've found a red DMT stone to produce the best edge compromise between bite, sharpness, and edge holding. A soft Arkansas stone produces an edge with less bite, but still acceptable. I strop very lightly after either.

What is everyone else's prefered sharpening methods for Buck's 420HC steel blades?

Obligitory picture of my 192.
0147F8C2-1011-4567-A0F1-693665239C83.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sandpaper starting with either 400 or 800 up to 2000 then strop.

I will also use mine KME with diamond stones then strop
 
hunterjrg said:
Sandpaper starting with either 400 or 800 up to 2000 then strop.

I will also use mine KME with diamond stones then strop
Click to expand...
How toothy is the edge at 2000 grit? I've not used sandpaper for sharpening. Is that about equal to a course DMT stone?
 
JM2 said:
I have a Buck 192 among others, that I have been experimenting with. So far, I've found a red DMT stone to produce the best edge compromise between bite, sharpness, and edge holding. A soft Arkansas stone produces an edge with less bite, but still acceptable. I strop very lightly after either.

What is everyone else's prefered sharpening methods for Buck's 420HC steel blades?

Obligitory picture of my 192.
0147F8C2-1011-4567-A0F1-693665239C83.jpg
Click to expand...
What's that sheath? I like it. I love my 192 but so far only have the OEM sheath it came with.
 
I finish on the flat side of a coarse Spyderco sharpmaker stone set at the 15 dps position. Sal posted that that's roughly equivalent to 600 grit, although personally, I think it's a tad finer.
 
I use a variety of stones for 420HC depending on blade length, shape, condition, etc. 99% of the time I finish with a fine, then an ultra-fine, ceramic rod. Occasionally I’ll use Grandpa’s hard Arkansas stone on 700 or 300 series slipjoints. It’s one of the small Buck No. 130 stones so it’s hard to hold. If it was larger, I would use it more.
 
knarfeng said:
I finish on the flat side of a coarse Spyderco sharpmaker stone set at the 15 dps position. Sal posted that that's roughly equivalent to 600 grit, although personally, I think it's a tad finer.
Click to expand...
Unless an edge is really messed up, I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker. I have a Worksharp, with the blade grinder attachment, but I rarely use it, except for stuff like brush cutters, axes, etc.
 
I usually just use regular old Arkansas stones. Usually soft and sometimes followed up by a hard stone. Honestly do this with all my knives except my Bark Rivers that are convexed.
 
I have a worksharp tri stone I use for just about all my carbon and non “super” stainless steels. It really works well for my uses and is small enough to take with me anywhere I go.
 
I think the edge that impressed me the most on a Buck 420HC blade was one I created with an XC DMT (220) and then very lightly micro-beveled with a medium ceramic, like Spyderco's brown/gray rods as used with the Sharpmaker. That edge is a wicked, very aggressive slicer. I'd first tried it on my Buck 111, then later on a Buck 110LT. According to one's own preferences, the method also works well by starting with either a Coarse DMT (325) or Fine DMT (600), instead of the XC. The XC, in particular, really blew me away though.

Having said the above, in general terms, I've liked how 420HC responds to a medium grit stone like a Fine India (360-400 ANSI). That's my default go-to stone for setting the initial edge on steels like these. And touching up on the medium Spyderco is still usually my default for maintaining a crisp slicing apex on those blades, between resetting of the bevels when I decide to take it back to the Fine India.
 
Last edited:
arizonaranchman said:
What's that sheath? I like it. I love my 192 but so far only have the OEM sheath it came with.
Click to expand...
It is a sheath I half made. I bought a sheath off ebay to see how I liked it. I didn't like how it rode. It caused the knife handle to dig into my side and the tip to be a bit flared outward. So I disassembled the sheath and modified it to have a different belt loop. It carries a lot better for me now, though I need to go just a touch higher ride, about 1/2" I think.

There is no retention with this sheath, and I have since added a small hole at the top opening to which I have placed one of the wife's hair ties. I wrap that around the handle when I'm not actively using the knife. I'll have to get a picture of that sometime.

F77-A8789-DB94-46-E6-A48-E-C4-E6161-CF955.jpg


6584959-E-81-FF-4789-B5-F4-1226-B5060-D3-F.jpg




Here is the sheath I bought, I think. If not, it's identical. It's been 8 years now probably.
 
JM2 said:
I have a Buck 192 among others, that I have been experimenting with. So far, I've found a red DMT stone to produce the best edge compromise between bite, sharpness, and edge holding. A soft Arkansas stone produces an edge with less bite, but still a
What is everyone else's prefered sharpening methods for Buck's 420HC steel blades?
Click to expand...
To set the edge and do my first sharpening, I use my Work Sharp Precision Adjust and work my way up from the coarsest to the finest diamond plate, and then the ceramic. If I can shave my arm, it is good to go.

If then edge is already set (correctly by the factory or by me), then I use my Lansky Master's Edge crock sticks to touch it up. Medium Ceramic rods if it needs a lot of work, Fine Ceramic roads if it just needs a touch up.
 
My experience is that if you refine the edge down to a very fine shaving edge, that while it is technically "sharp" the knife is about worthless for actually cutting stuff because it has no bite. If it won't bite the skin of a mater, it ain't sharp.
 
JM2 said:
My experience is that if you refine the edge down to a very fine shaving edge, that while it is technically "sharp" the knife is about worthless for actually cutting stuff because it has no bite. If it won't bite the skin of a mater, it ain't sharp.
Click to expand...
I wish I could say that "shave my arm" means my knife has a fine enough edge to shave a face, but in the case of the fur on my arm, :cool: , it just means really sharp ...
 
Last edited:
I have a red Norton India stone, which I believe is 400 grit. There are three aluminum oxide Norton stones and the red is the finest.

It gives steel like bucks 420hc and most other mid range steels an awesome edge. It's toothy enough for a good working edge.

The Arkansas stone can come after if you want to refine it a little, but I haven't been on larger knives.
 
Well I haven’t sharpened my dads old Buck Frontiersman in a long time but this thread has inspired me to do so using my current setup of a DMT Aligner clamp and either a Norton Economy stone or a set of Naniwa water stones. I plan to match the factory angle though my typical procedure is to lower the angle to below 20 dps and down to below 15 dos if the clamp will manage. A knife to size should be fine at 16-19 dps, whatever is closest to the clamp settings.
 
JM2 said:
It is a sheath I half made. I bought a sheath off ebay to see how I liked it. I didn't like how it rode. It caused the knife handle to dig into my side and the tip to be a bit flared outward. So I disassembled the sheath and modified it to have a different belt loop. It carries a lot better for me now, though I need to go just a touch higher ride, about 1/2" I think.

There is no retention with this sheath, and I have since added a small hole at the top opening to which I have placed one of the wife's hair ties. I wrap that around the handle when I'm not actively using the knife. I'll have to get a picture of that sometime.

F77-A8789-DB94-46-E6-A48-E-C4-E6161-CF955.jpg


6584959-E-81-FF-4789-B5-F4-1226-B5060-D3-F.jpg




Here is the sheath I bought, I think. If not, it's identical. It's been 8 years now probably.
Click to expand...
Nice I like it. That high ride position and in close to the side is perfect. Nicely done! I love my 192 and carry it alot but only have the OEM sheath at the moment
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top