I am a newbie in the knife world and was hoping I could learn some techniques for sharpening the Kopis blade on the Cold Steel Spartan.
Thanks for helping me in my newbish struggles.
good idea. Thanks.
Also, the blade has a bit of rust on it (AUS 8A + sweatiness in my pocket at the office for six days=Not good). Any ideas? I heard that a little Hoppe's No. 9 with some 0000 steel wool will take off rust.
How much rust? I use steel wool (0000) on my working blades; if the rust is in small spots, maybe try Hoppe's with a terrycloth towel, then move to 0000 steel wool if needed.
If it's a working piece, then the 0000 steel wool would take off the rust spots pretty well, even without the Hoppe's.
To sharpen on a stone the stone must have a rounded corner. With a normal flat stone the inner part of the recurve before the belly will not make contact causing a "dead spot" in the edge. A 2x4 lightly sanded with sandpaper glued to it is on option, spyderco profiles would work good for keeping it sharp but not for heavy work. Diamond oval sharpeners, and lastly a belt sander are all options.
I'd probably start with the sandpaper, if not a 2x4 you can also use curved base molding. Its what I once used and works quite well.
My brother has a Limited edition Benchmade with recurved edge.
First i used the sharpmaker but it didnt realy worked out. Could be that Benchmades sharpened 20-20 in the factory.
I use the ceramics from the sharpmaker and only sharpen with the corners. Free handed it went from barely reasonably to shaving in 15minutes.
I recognize that I am late to the party but recommend and Spyderco Sharpmaker. I have this, the Rajah III and a TOPS Tom Brown Tracker I. The Sharpmaker makes short work of them.
get a pringles can with the bottom cut out and attach some abrasive paper to it. crimp down one side so you have somewhat of a square corner so you can sharpen the plunge line area of the blade. you put your arm through the can with the flat facing the knife for each side. match up the angle by tilting the blade and slowly push the blade away from you while working your way to the tip where you will stop. dont let the tip slide off or you'll round off the tip. switch the can to your other arm and repeat. once you have a burr worked up, go to a strop or ceramic stick to remove the burr.
for some recurves i use my belt sander or my paper wheels. i always finish off any edge with the slotted paper buffing wheel which gives me a razor edge.
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