Sharpening a Fallkniven F1?

Yes it will. I guess You have the F1 with convex edge.
The edge will stay a little convex due to that it is freehand sharpening even if it is easier to keep the blade in straight angle with the sharpmaker.
I use the sharpmaker on mine and it works great. Te F1 can really cut for beeing a pretty beefy blade.
 
Steve,

The Sharpmaker will work just fine. But over time you will start to see a bevel forming from the sharpening. The convex edge on the F1 is pretty heavy and this will mean that eventually the knife will not cut as well as it does now using this method.

The easiest way I know to keep convex edges cutting is to use wet/dry sandpaper and a mouse pad. Simply place a piece of paper (I start out with 400) on the pad and using firm pressure, just strop the blade slowly across the paper. I start by laying the blade flat on the paper and as you strop, slowly and gradually raise the spine up off the pad. You will feel a slight change in resistance when you reach the very edge of the blade. At this point, stop raising the spine or you will simply round off your edge (this is very bad!). Repeat for both sides of the blade. Then just repeat the procedure with the next grit (I use 800). Strop when your finished on a loaded leather strop to take care of any burr left.

This method is really quite easy and quick. It also maintains the original edge geometry if done right. Rather than becoming less efficient at cutting over time due to developing an edge bevel, the knife will actually become more efficient due to a very, very slow thinning of the edge and entire blade. Don't worry though, it will take a long, long time ;)
 
I'd stay away from the SharpMaker when sharpening a convex edge, just for the reasons that Blademan mentioned. Conex edges require a completely different method (and a cheaper and simpler one, IMHO) of sharpening.

If you'd like more info on sharpening convex edges, try the following link. Convex Grinds
 
I guess Buzzbait and Blademan is a lot better at using the sharpmaker than me. I get a convex edge on my F1 that I have used for years.

When I dont get to the edge I just back bevel on a diamond honer and finish of on the sharpmaker. Peter Hjorberger, owner of Fallkniven, only uses freehand diamond honer without raising the knife and he also gets a convex edge.
A normal freehand honing varies the angle a few degrees witout intention and the result is a more or less convex edge. If you are used to the sharpmaker and can get a good result on your other knives I wouldn´t worry about it.
 
I read an article one time by Ed Fowler. I think it was in his column in Blade Magazine, and I think it may have been titled something like "sharpen~phobia." I hope Mr. Fowler will jump in here and correct me if necessary.
Anyway the jist of the article was on sharpening a convex edge, and how we make a big deal out of nothing. The way he suggested it be done was like this----
Pretend that you are cutting a postage stamp off of your sharpening stone. First one side and then the other. On every fourth or fifth stroke, lower the spine of the knife as you move it accross the stone. This is to maintain the convex profile.
Sometimes after using a stone in this method, I will lay a crock stick down flat and use it the same way if doing a light touch up.
 
I have had many knives that I have sharpened with a similar method as to what Mextreme is talking about but these usually started life with a single, secondary bevel. I have routinely sharpened my Benchmades via a Lansky system by first knocking the bevel down with the 17 degree setting, then again at 20 degrees. I then sharpen the final edge with the Sharpmaker and use it for touch-ups. This tri-bevel edge serves the same general purpose as a convex edge and cuts much better than a single, steep bevel. It is not, however, a true convex edge. It also does not eliminate the problem with the edge becoming thicker over time. This is not a problem with a hollow ground blade as the steel remains relatively thin a long ways behind the edge. If you take 1/8" off your properly ground blade using a hollow grind, after sharpening for many years you still have a servicable blade. The same amount off a convex ground blade is going to result in a much thicker edge. This is especially true on the F1 which has a much heavier edge than what you would find on a Marble's.

BTW, I am not saying that you cannot put a true convex edge on a knife using a stone, you most certainly can. I just find it much easier to do using the paper/pad method. Another benefit of this method is that your blade keeps it's good looks much longer. When properly done it is very hard to tell that the knife has ever even been sharpened.
 
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