Sharpening a Kensei

M

MATCHGRADE

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Nov 2, 2005
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I have a busse kensai, 18" blade infi steel, I believe a convex grind. When the time comes how should I sharpen it? Ive herd crock sticks, or an edgepro in sections. What do you sword sharpeners think? Thanks
 
Congrats on your new Kensei. I don't know if the edge on my new Kensei is convex or not. Personally, I don't like convex edges because they limit sharpening in the field.

For the field, I use a DMT Diafold; coarse on one side, fine on the other. So far, I have used the Diafold only for knives but I consider the Kensei primarily a tool, so in my mind, it merits field sharpening when necessary.

I included a pocket for the Diafold on the scabbard I made for my AK.

At home, I spring clamp the sword with the edge overhanging the bench. I free hand a large, fine diamond stone being careful to maintain the same angle. This is how I sharpen my double edged swords.

Sharpmakers or Edge Pros, create a flat edge and yes, a long blade must sharpened in sections. Any blade over 14" seems too large for a Sharpmaker unless it is screwed to the bench to allow holding the sword two handed. I don't own an Edge Pro (Hope to get one someday).

Did you ask the question on the Busse forum? Seems like those guys might be the best source of info, especially for convex sharpening.
 
I just use a sandpaper sponge and it brings the edge right back on mine.
 
tedwca said:
I just use a sandpaper sponge and it brings the edge right back on mine.
Click to expand...

I guess you could easily take a sandpaper sponge into the field. A little bulky but lightweight.

What grit do you use and about how long do they last?
 
I use a medium and fine sponge. They don't really rate them in grit as far as I can tell. I haven't worn one out yet, so I can't tell you how long they hold up.
 
Thanks tedwca. I will experiment with sandpaper sponge and see what happens.

That being said, I doubt a sandpaper sponge will replace the diafold or that I will switch from a conventional to convex edge.

I want the sharpener to last near as long as the blade. Could be wrong but I don't see a sandpaper sponge being very durable. I also want to permanently store the sharpener in a pocket on the sheath/scabbard and this is impractical with a sponge unless it is cut in small pieces.

Still, under ordinary circumstances, the sandpaper sponge sounds like an effective way to maintain a convex edge.
 
Vorpal Blade said:
I guess you could easily take a sandpaper sponge into the field. A little bulky but lightweight.

What grit do you use and about how long do they last?
Click to expand...

So when you are out in the field, how many weeks are you out there? How many people or animals do you de-animate? How many trees do you chop down?

The 'proper way' to sharpen a Japanese sword is with small ceramic finger stones. You hold the stone at a fixed angle and use the back of the blade as a guide.

If you REALLY want a convex grind, use a piece of fine fabric backed abrasive glued to a foam computer mouse mat, but back in your workshop.
 
Sorry, think the convex thing might be hearsay on my part on the kensei.
A field touch up can be good, but I would prefer to sharpen at home if I can. Sharpening is somthing Im not great at. .408?
 
Andrew Taylor said:
So when you are out in the field, how many weeks are you out there? How many people or animals do you de-animate? How many trees do you chop down?
The 'proper way' to sharpen a Japanese sword is with small ceramic finger stones. You hold the stone at a fixed angle and use the back of the blade as a guide.
If you REALLY want a convex grind, use a piece of fine fabric backed abrasive glued to a foam computer mouse mat, but back in your workshop.
Click to expand...

Like many others, I like to practice outdoor/survival skills and field sharpening is one of them. I have no problem using the most effective modern technology.
 
Canadian Tire sell a small diamond hone that is about 4.5" x 2.5" with a swivel carabiner at one end. Get the fine one. They aren't cheap, but they don't clog, work quickly and are light. You can also use them like a finger stone.
 
They seem better than the one I was advocating. As it happened, I had my camera in the shop on Friday, so took a picture for you. It folds back into the red plastic housing, but is only one sided.
 

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I recognize it now. According to the DMT site, the Mini-Sharp measures five and a half inches open, probably about three inches closed. The Diafold is nine and a half inches open and five inches closed. So the Mini-Sharp has the advantage of being lighter and smaller than the double sided Diafold.

But for field sharpening, I find the Diafold to be the best compromise of size, weight and versatility, so far. Of course one can't (at least I can't) achieve the same near perfection as with large stones or jigs.

The coarse/fine version, allows both edge repair and maintenance. What I really like is the nine and a half inch open length. It helps keep a constant angle because you can see deviation more easily. Once close, the Diafold can be stored in a pouch on most sheaths five inches or longer.

I like to store a dedicated sharpener on the sheath of each fixed blade. For storing on a sheath less than five inches, the Mini-Sharp might be a good option.
 
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