hey guys how do you go about sharpening a dull rat-3 knife? I was wondering because I recently purchased the knife and was wanting to make this thread as a future reference if my knife ever gets dull. Now question #1 would be can any stone do? I have read around saying that sand paper works well but have not seen much about actual stones. Are Japanese stones overrated? can someone direct me to a website with a good stone? and how do I actually go about sharpening a knife? I have read that it usually involves water, a stone and angling the knife until the knife "bites"? is that true? thanks in advance.
sharpening a ontario rat-3
- Thread starter kevshin21
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I think any stone would work. For a bench stone, I have an 8 inch Norton India stone (two sided) that seems to work pretty well.
I also have about $140 invested in two Norton waterstones, 220/1000 and 4000/8000. These were not a good investment (for me) because I don't have the freehand skill to fully utilize their potential. The problem is my skill level, not the quality of the stones.
I have a Spyderco "Sharpmaker" that serves me very well, and I can put a hair splitting edge on most knives with it. Even my D-2 steel blades.
I have also heard nothing but praise for the "Edge-Pro" but I've never used one, so I'll have to take the word of those who know more than I do. (which means almost everyone on this forum!)
Read the forum, including the older pages and you will find a plethora of information.
I also have about $140 invested in two Norton waterstones, 220/1000 and 4000/8000. These were not a good investment (for me) because I don't have the freehand skill to fully utilize their potential. The problem is my skill level, not the quality of the stones.
I have a Spyderco "Sharpmaker" that serves me very well, and I can put a hair splitting edge on most knives with it. Even my D-2 steel blades.
I have also heard nothing but praise for the "Edge-Pro" but I've never used one, so I'll have to take the word of those who know more than I do. (which means almost everyone on this forum!)
Read the forum, including the older pages and you will find a plethora of information.
Japanese stones are overated, for a beginner anyway. I notice you ask about bench stones, are you sure this is what you want to use? The art of freehand sharpening will take time to master, if you want good results that is. Where something like spyderco's sharpmaker is somewhat a no brainer with good results. And besides once you start collecting benchstones, it well, seems to snowball. You can never get enough of them. Someone is allways going to come out with a new product that you just cant live without. If you don't belive me ask some of these folks to post a picture of their "collection".
Good luck.
Good luck.
Well, I'll give this a shot.
1) If you're new to sharpening freehand, I'd recommend going to Razor Edge website and ordering one of their kits along with his excellent book on sharpening (get the larger stone Pro kit - about $95.00 I believe)...
2) Besides his general coarse and fine stone and guides, you'll need something to reprofile that RAT-3 to a better primary bevel. I would recommend the DMT 8XX stone...
I just reworked a RAT-3 and once reprofiled it produces a great edge with the D2 steel (I assume you have the D2, but if you have the 1095 steel, no problem; you need to reprofile either way)...
If you haven't decided if you're going to use a sharpening system or learn to freehand (my recommendation) then at least get the Razor Edge book to give you the knowledge of what it takes to produce a sharp edge. It is $$$ well spent...
Then you can decide on what stones, system, accessories you'd like to acquire. Systems are fine, but there's nothing like gaining the knowledge and expertise to hand sharpen all your tools and knives. Then you can sharpen wherever you are with the basic stones.
I guess it all depends on how dedicated you are to sharpening and the amount of money you want to spend. If you want to learn this art, then freehand is the ultimate way to put an edge on a tool, what angle you want, and how sharp you want it to be. Freehand with stones (AO, waterstones, diamond, Arkansas) is akin to a reloader for rifles, handguns, etc. Those who freehand reload -- those who sharpen with a sharpening system (Landsky, Spyderso, Edge-Pro, etc.) are those who buy preloaded ammunition. They both work, it's just what you like and how much time you have to dedicate yourself to learning a new talent...
Good Luck:
Dead
1) If you're new to sharpening freehand, I'd recommend going to Razor Edge website and ordering one of their kits along with his excellent book on sharpening (get the larger stone Pro kit - about $95.00 I believe)...
2) Besides his general coarse and fine stone and guides, you'll need something to reprofile that RAT-3 to a better primary bevel. I would recommend the DMT 8XX stone...
I just reworked a RAT-3 and once reprofiled it produces a great edge with the D2 steel (I assume you have the D2, but if you have the 1095 steel, no problem; you need to reprofile either way)...
If you haven't decided if you're going to use a sharpening system or learn to freehand (my recommendation) then at least get the Razor Edge book to give you the knowledge of what it takes to produce a sharp edge. It is $$$ well spent...
Then you can decide on what stones, system, accessories you'd like to acquire. Systems are fine, but there's nothing like gaining the knowledge and expertise to hand sharpen all your tools and knives. Then you can sharpen wherever you are with the basic stones.
I guess it all depends on how dedicated you are to sharpening and the amount of money you want to spend. If you want to learn this art, then freehand is the ultimate way to put an edge on a tool, what angle you want, and how sharp you want it to be. Freehand with stones (AO, waterstones, diamond, Arkansas) is akin to a reloader for rifles, handguns, etc. Those who freehand reload -- those who sharpen with a sharpening system (Landsky, Spyderso, Edge-Pro, etc.) are those who buy preloaded ammunition. They both work, it's just what you like and how much time you have to dedicate yourself to learning a new talent...
Good Luck:
Dead
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Kevinshin,
You asked the same question in three different threads all in one day.
My comments, for what they are worth, are in your earlier thread here in the Toolshed titled, "just can't seem to create a sharp edge."
I think it is better to ask a question once and let the moderators move it if they think they need to. No need to ask two or three times.
You asked the same question in three different threads all in one day.
My comments, for what they are worth, are in your earlier thread here in the Toolshed titled, "just can't seem to create a sharp edge."
I think it is better to ask a question once and let the moderators move it if they think they need to. No need to ask two or three times.
Ben:
Can be, for certain...
But, when you get the freehand thing down, pump that manly chest of yours out with vigor and point with great pride to that superb edge you just produced as you slice your way through sheets and sheets of yellow pages...
Dead
Can be, for certain...
But, when you get the freehand thing down, pump that manly chest of yours out with vigor and point with great pride to that superb edge you just produced as you slice your way through sheets and sheets of yellow pages...
Dead
Now that you have a stone here is a link.
http://www.japanesechefsknife.com/HowToSharpen.html
Notice step 2, the angle of the blade. The two pennys.
Now notice how he uses both hands, he is making sure that the blade is always in good flat contact with the stone, this is very important. I have been taught to sharpen by pulling the blade towards me (as like cutting the stone) and then flip it over and push it away from me on the other stroke. In one of your threads it sounded as your blade angle was two high (like 6 pennys instead of two) Do not hold the stone in your hand while you sharpen. Always use a bench. I use the corner of the island in the kitchen. I put a wet paper towel patted down to set my stones on, it does a great job of holding them in place. It will take some time so don't give up. Hope this helps some.
http://www.japanesechefsknife.com/HowToSharpen.html
Notice step 2, the angle of the blade. The two pennys.
Now notice how he uses both hands, he is making sure that the blade is always in good flat contact with the stone, this is very important. I have been taught to sharpen by pulling the blade towards me (as like cutting the stone) and then flip it over and push it away from me on the other stroke. In one of your threads it sounded as your blade angle was two high (like 6 pennys instead of two) Do not hold the stone in your hand while you sharpen. Always use a bench. I use the corner of the island in the kitchen. I put a wet paper towel patted down to set my stones on, it does a great job of holding them in place. It will take some time so don't give up. Hope this helps some.
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One thing on this page that is left out (it's in Murray Carter's video), is that, in Step 4, after you do the blade 5 times on each side, you then go back and do each side one more time on each side. (He also pulls the knife thru a piece of wood, prior to this final stroke). This removes all traces of the burr.