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- Jan 1, 2015
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this queen economy is the gunstock yello derlin .....1095 carbon..for the life of me I cant get the edge right....anybody had problems when queen economy steel?......
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sharpening a queen economy
- Thread starter steeltowninwv
- Start date
Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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It's not the steel. 1095 is pretty nice steel, and Queen's heat treat is good.
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- Jan 1, 2015
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- 201
I will have to do some more work on it.....don't know what it is...I can get ll my other knives shaving sharp....im a novice at sharpening..but this the toughest one ive run into yet that had any quality about it
klineh
BANNED
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- Nov 13, 2012
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- 689
I briefly owned one of the 1095 Queen City Copperheads. It had some of the most horribly obtuse edges I've encountered and super thick behind the edge to boot. It might be one of Queen's older notorious axe edges that is giving you trouble.
The above picture is the end result of reprofiling the main blade to ~30 degrees inclusive. Waaay too much elbow grease involved.
Otherwise, the knife had extremely good fit and finish for the price tag.
Last edited:
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As mentioned above^, if it's a typically thick Queen edge, that's likely most of the trouble.
Also as asked earlier, if we had more details about the method and tools used, some more useful advice could be offered. 1095 by itself is easy to grind (remove metal), depending on if the appropriate stones/abrasives are used. I've found that a SiC stone @ ~320-grit or so, or Fine/EF diamond hones, to be useful for re-setting new bevels on such steels; they work very fast. If the stone is too coarse, it's easy to overgrind 1095 in small blades, which removes too much steel and leaves the edge ragged and harder to refine. That's why I've liked the particular hones mentioned, because they're aggressive enough to remove steel quickly, but also fine enough to leave a good/great working edge, with perhaps some minimal stropping afterwards.
David
Also as asked earlier, if we had more details about the method and tools used, some more useful advice could be offered. 1095 by itself is easy to grind (remove metal), depending on if the appropriate stones/abrasives are used. I've found that a SiC stone @ ~320-grit or so, or Fine/EF diamond hones, to be useful for re-setting new bevels on such steels; they work very fast. If the stone is too coarse, it's easy to overgrind 1095 in small blades, which removes too much steel and leaves the edge ragged and harder to refine. That's why I've liked the particular hones mentioned, because they're aggressive enough to remove steel quickly, but also fine enough to leave a good/great working edge, with perhaps some minimal stropping afterwards.
David