Good luck with that one.
Your probably going to have to invest in a rod shaped sharpener like crock sticks or a triangular shaped sticks like the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Or if you don't want to drop those kind of duckies get one of DMT's rod shaped diamond sharpeners. They won't break the bank and they work just dandy.
If it's stupid but works, then it isn't stupid.
[This message has been edited by misque (edited 08 September 1999).]
For several reasons, most to do with compactness and durability, I have chosen to use flat diamonds exclusively.
Thing is, they're real poor for doing concave edges. The only way I know to get any results at all is to get the diamond stone of it's wood base(which I do anyway), put it up against the corner of a table and sharpen on the the upper edge/corner of the stone.
It works, but not real well. That concave edge is what kept me from getting a 710 even though I more or less like the knife otherwise and do need a new folder as I broke mine.
I make several models with recurved blades and must admit they are hard to sharpen away from the shop!!
This might sound radical but, I feel it works better than those round stones. I used to be able to get plasic handled diamond hones that were 1/4 inch wide for doing tool and die work. They are no longer made and the ones I had worked realy well for sharpening the recurved blades!! Now I take a brand new DMT diamond hone and cut it in half the long way on the band saw!!! I hit the saw cut edges on the belt grinder and it's ready to go!!!!
I put my edges on new knives in the shop with a fine belt then a leather strop or buffing wheel. If you have a recurve that is too far gone to bring back by hand, or you just can't get it "scarry sharp",I would be glad to re-do the edge on it for you for a minimal charge.
Please Email me for more info.
You can sharpen recurved edges with flat stones just like you would normal edges. The only problem is that depending on the radius of the curve the angle will vary slightly along the edge. This means that the first time you attempt this you will need to grind awhile to get the whole edge sharp. It would be faster to use a hone with a small width and work it perpendicular to the edge or simply use a Sharpmaker or similar.
My best results have always been with using stones that had a much smaller diameter than the diameter of the recurve. That means rods or triangle sticks, for the most part. If you look into the Knife Reviews forum and look up my article "How to Make the Benchmade Axis Perform", that is basically a primer on the way I recommend sharpening recurved folder blades. The resulting performance beat the out-of-box performance by a factor of 7 in slicing tests.