I'm using a lansky clamp system with guide rods and stones range from extra course to very fine 5 in total. I've used this system for years without any problem and obtaining g pretty goo results on D2 steel on a kershaw rake and VG10 spiderco ATR. I e just got a ZT 0300 recently and I tried to sharpen it but the rests where mediocre at best. My question is what angle should I sharpen at my. Voices are 30,25, 20, or 17 degrees. I tried at 20. Also how long do I need to sharpen it with each stone strokes per side and how many cycles back and forth. Also being s30v steel how long shod it take to sharpen that the blade. If any part of this post was vague or if you need any more info let me know. I would really appreciate any advice. BTW the stones I'm using are regular as in not diamond coated as car as type of stones I'm not sure.
Sharpening advice please
- Thread starter ATaylor
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I'd suggest using a sharpie to mark the factory edge, then set the angle right and sharpen with the adequate stone (as coarse as required) until burr and unified scratch pattern. Continue from there with finer stones. The problem with rod guided system is you only have certain set angles, so you likely have either a more acute or more obtuse setting than the factory edge angle.
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For the S30V blade, a diamond hone in XC/Coarse will be a BIG help for setting new bevels. The standard stones (probably corundum/aluminum oxide) in the Lanksy kit likely won't be aggressive enough to shape the vanadium carbides in that steel, if much heavy grinding or re-bevelling needs to be done. I ruined two of the standard hones, from my 5-stone kit, trying to re-bevel an S30V blade on a ZT-0350. At the time, I also had a supplementary medium diamond hone (Lansky) which was barely enough to finish the job; still took ~ 6 hours to get it done, as I was re-bevelling to a rather acute angle, requiring a lot of steel to come off. The Lansky hones are very small, so you'll want as much aggressiveness in that small package as is obtainable, for heavy grinding jobs on large/thick blades, or on very wear-resistant steels like S30V.
Some light refining of the edge should still be possible with the standard stones, but I wouldn't expect them to work well if heavier grinding needs to be done. Due to the standard hones' limited ability to abrade the vanadium carbides in the steel, I'd still suggest using diamond hones in the refining stages, to get the best out of the edge you create.
David
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