sharpening angles for aus-8 steel

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steve4570

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Sep 18, 2007
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I have a Kershaw folder in aus-8, it gets pretty dull after cleaning and about 1/2 way through the skinning of an elk. I dont cut through bones with it, strictly tissue. I have always sharpened it at a 30 degree total sharpening angle and it starts out shaving sharp but it fades quickly. I always thought this was pretty good performance but now im wondering if Im not thinning out this metal too much. Would a 40 degree edge keep this sharp longer? Is it time to consider a new knife in D2 or s30v or CM154?(any recomendations?) Thanks for the help.
 
Seems a reasonable angle to me. I've scraped cast iron with my Kershaw at 15ish degrees per side. A touch up session on the Sharpmaker fine stones and it was back, though just shaving, not hair popping like it was to start. Try a higher polish, or if you have that already, try a coarser polish. The ability to raise edge holding by different sharpening methods is much underestimated, IMO. I'm currently looking forward to a DMT 325 grit diamond stone for use as a finishing stone for coarse grits. My Kershaw Vapor will hold a hair shaving (not popping) edge for a long time on cardboard when ground and honed on a 320 grit belt and leather belt with white compound on a 1x30 belt sander. Many report increased edge holding in soft material using a coarse finish, but I havent tested that yet.
 
I sharpen my AUS 8A at 30 degrees inclusive. And no, mine wont hold an edge either. :grumpy: I have one AUS 8A knife. I'll never have another.

Get D-2, M-2 or S30V. They'll do a half dozen elk without resharpening.
 
It will get dull faster if you use a higher angle, not slower. The edge isn't failing, it is just wearing. If you sharpen to a higher angle the edge will get wider faster as if wears.

Go to a more abrasion resistant steel. I prefer BG42 when I can get it. D2 might be a good choice if you are not chopping through bones. S30V might be another choice.
 
I run my AUS8 Camillus Heat at around 12 deg. per side and have no major problems at all. I go up to 2000 grit, then strop on a green compound loaded hardwood block and it works well. I don't see the problem as solely because the blade is made from AUS8, but rather that most makers run it on the softer side, when it will handle 59-60 just fine. If I am not mistaken Benchmade runs their AUS 8 on the harder end of the scale without any train wrecks.
I know that my Byrd Cara Cara which is stated as "similar" to AUS8 by Sal, is quite hard compared to my other AUS8 blades and it is not brittle, or prone to chip out and I run it at 12 deg. also, and don't tiptoe around when using it.

All that said, AUS8 is NOT BG42, ZDP, or the like. But it is a perfectly fine steel for an EDC working knife that is easy to sharpen, and easy on the pocketbook.

Beckerhead
 
AUS8A is a very good stainless steel and it holds its edge remarkably well under most uses, but for the type of work you're describing, you need to click here, put "2" or more in the quantity and check out. Oh, and while you're there, take a look at the reviews of this knife. One fellow said: "I will clean 15-20 deer per season and needed a knife that will stay sharp. Most knives will gut and quarter 2 deer before they need to be resharpened. This knife will gut and quarter 4 before it needs to be resharpened. I was concerned that the S30V steel would be hard to touch up but it is just as easy as 420 or 440. Good buy for the money!!!"

I say buy two or more to save you the time and cost of having to go back and order more when you find out how great it is.

If you want a fixed blade, it's also hard to beat the Vanguard.
 
If you're buying it strictly for a hunting knife, look at Bob Dozier's forum. Great D-2 steel at a reasonable price, from one of the truly great knifemakers in the business.

I have a little "General Camp and Hunting" from Bob, and it still didn't need to be sharpened after dressing out two bull elk.

www.dozierknives.com
 
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