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How To Sharpening around the heel closest to finger choil

Discussion in 'Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment' started by darth_cholo, Apr 14, 2018.

  1. darth_cholo

    darth_cholo Gold Member Gold Member

    370
    Mar 29, 2010
    Opening a second "how to sharpen near the heel" thread. I read this old thread but it's not a clear unanimous recommendation. Resetting the grind on manix 2 s110v i found myself not able to reach the apex closes to the finger choil. See the picture.

    What's the strategy around this part? just keep going until you hit apex?

    https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...the-heel-of-your-blade.1565658/#post-17971909

    Hopefully you can see the untouched sharpie in the pic right on top of my finger. I have a brand new CKTG diamond stone 140 i can use

    [​IMG]
     
    bucketstove likes this.
  2. Twindog

    Twindog Gold Member Gold Member

    Apr 6, 2004
    This is a tough one to sharpen because it requires a lot of attention to detail at the ricasso. You can see that your edge doesn't quite reach the ricasso, so you have to make a decision: do you want to run your edge right up to the plunge line of the ricasso or stop the edge short.

    If you do run the edge up to the ricasso, you have a lot of metal to remove and you'll have to grind parallel to the plunge line. If you stop short, you'll still want to have a crisp end to your edge, so you'll have to grind parallel to the plunge line just short of the plunge line.

    Blades like this should have a sharpening choil, at least to my mind. And that's still an option for you. You could take a Dremmel and grind in a sharpening choil, or send it off to a pro to have one established for you. It's not expensive.
     
  3. wade7575

    wade7575 Basic Member Basic Member

    523
    Apr 3, 2013
    What you can try doing and I have seen a few guys on here do it and that's to take the coarsest stone you have and just keep grinding away the high spot until it is flat with the blade,that's the only thing I really don't like about Spyderco knives and to me it does make any sense to leave a high spot on the blade at the ricasso.
     
  4. darth_cholo

    darth_cholo Gold Member Gold Member

    370
    Mar 29, 2010
    I'm gonna try running the edge all the way to end. Straight up and down strokes following the primary grind direction and see how it goes.
     
  5. bolabeenz

    bolabeenz

    110
    Jun 23, 2012
    I assume you are using an Edge Pro.
    Remember to only grind the high part at the plunge line keeping the rest of the stone off the blade.
    The first one I did I didn't. It wasn't pretty.
     
  6. 115Italian

    115Italian

    Nov 13, 2015
    Am I seeing that pic correctly? What happened to the blade?
     
  7. darth_cholo

    darth_cholo Gold Member Gold Member

    370
    Mar 29, 2010
    I'm using a Hapstone v7 (Apex style) sharpener. That initial pic was taken while i was sharping. I took a very toothy 140grit CKTG brand new diamond stone and put some good work in that corner of the blade. It seems like the factory initial grind angle got significantly greater as it came close to the ricasso. Much larger than the rest of the knife. I noticed an ever so slight re-curve forming, so I just stopped and finshed off the rest of the knife.

    Wonder if I can micro-bevel just that corner?

    Whenever doing dirty tough jobs I find myself reaching for this knife so it's possible over time it will get sharpened the most of all my knives and I can eventually work into that part without a re-curve.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. darth_cholo

    darth_cholo Gold Member Gold Member

    370
    Mar 29, 2010
    What was the side effect/end result?
     
  9. bolabeenz

    bolabeenz

    110
    Jun 23, 2012
    ^^^
    By the time I removed the steel at the plunge line I realized the stone, since it was tilted and in contact with the blade, was also removing steel. Gave a nice recurve. A learning experience. I free hand now so it's not an issue.
    Yours looks fine to me. A user, right? I've added sharpening choils to some of my smaller Spydies with the corner of my Sharpmaker rods. Easy, but it causes some snagging when cutting some things.
     
  10. darth_cholo

    darth_cholo Gold Member Gold Member

    370
    Mar 29, 2010
    All preference of course. But I might prefer a slightly recurved beginning of blade instead of a sharpening choil. I have a couple blades without a recasso and I hate how blade snags things when you overshoot a slicing or stabbing movement
     
  11. darth_cholo

    darth_cholo Gold Member Gold Member

    370
    Mar 29, 2010
    closing the book on this topic I seemed to get better with practice. Decided to grind a new bevel and sharpen the factory edge on my Manix2 XL and it came out really good.

    I have 3 Manix 2's in different steels and noticed how the grind is slightly different on each near the ricasso. See the picture with them lined up. You can see the differences best in that angle. I'm sure I'm in the minority preferring no sharpening choil even if it's a little re-curved after sharpening all the way up to the ricasso.

    52100 DLC = very flat 90 degree sharp angles. It makes for some nice sharp corners.
    Maxamet = medium slant with a 30 degree ramp. Very round with a lip that protrudes out a bit.
    S110V = gradual drop off to the blade maybe a 30 degree angle. A clean drop with an angle.
    S30v(Manix XL) = gradual drop off similar to S110v Manix. see how the grind goes significantly high on that slant.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

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