Sharpening Busse

R

re-bof

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Jan 11, 2009
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I tried searching the site but didn't find much, excuse me if this has been posted already.

I got a Spyderco 204 and a Busse CGFBM that I'd like to sharpen a bit. Can anyone give me instructions on how to do that?

When I tried sharpening it, I was under the impression that the medium-grit stones didn't do much.

Any help?

Thanks

Oh yeah, I can post pictures if you insist ;)
 
re-bof said:
I tried searching the site but didn't find much, excuse me if this has been posted already.

I got a Spyderco 204 and a Busse CGFBM that I'd like to sharpen a bit. Can anyone give me instructions on how to do that?

When I tried sharpening it, I was under the impression that the medium-grit stones didn't do much.

Any help?

Thanks

Oh yeah, I can post pictures if you insist ;)
Click to expand...
Depends on how dull your knife is? I would recommend dmt blue or 400 wet dry to start then finish with the sharpmaker.
 
greetings,
I have a large busse and used to have a hard time sharpening it. I bought I dont know how many different gizmos to help and was never really satisfied until I picked up an edgepro. Since then I have graduated to the sandpaper/mouse pad method and still prefer this to convex a large blade. My smaller blades get the edgepro treatement. I'm sure they can be hand sharpened with a stone I just had a hard time staying consistenet on the angle. The mouse pad is a little more forgiving and there are lots of threads and video around that show how to do it. It is also cheap to get started.
Dont be scared to just jump in and try. Good luck.
Josh
 
I use an Edgepro to thin the edges out, and get the bevel that I like established. After that, it's mainly freehand, dmt stones if it's really dull, or ceramic stones. I have found that INFI responds really well to ceramic stones, puts a screaming edge on it, at least for me.
 
I use diamond plates, then waterstones, and a few swipes on a loaded strop. To maintain a very sharp edge, a loaded strop does a good job. Infi finished with a loaded strop can be made to cleave an empty plastic bottle with just a casual swipe.
 
Guys, I don't want to invest more money in sharpeners. :) Just asking if it can be done on a Sharpmaker and what I should be doing.

Thanks
 
You could do it on a sharpmaker (use the flats), but it would take a loooong time if you had some edge damage and wanted to get it all removed. Sandpaper on a flat surface would remove material a lot faster, but you might want to practice on a cheaper knife.
 
oh, didnt know it was a sharpmaker question...... oops.
however i dont mind insisting you post a pic of the busse. :')
jd
 
Doesnt Mr. Busse recommend stropping on a notebook back? (Like the back part of a sprial notebook)???
 
That kind of cardboard makes a great strop. Only good after you've got a sharp edge or need a little touchup.
 
re-bof said:
I tried searching the site but didn't find much, excuse me if this has been posted already.

I got a Spyderco 204 and a Busse CGFBM that I'd like to sharpen a bit. Can anyone give me instructions on how to do that?

When I tried sharpening it, I was under the impression that the medium-grit stones didn't do much.

Any help?

Thanks

Oh yeah, I can post pictures if you insist ;)
Click to expand...

From what I have - it may have worse in the industry out of the box edge. In addition to worse sharpness - edge is extremely thick. Factory angle from what I tested was about 30 degree. But with thickest edge I ever see on new knives make it almost impossible to sharpen with Spyderco Ceramic, even with Spyderco Diamond rods it may take several days to remove all this metal to make reasonable edge. I went through this pain myself few times, until found cure once and for all.

Spyderco sharpmaker assume good edge on the first place to be sharpened - this is not a case (at least never was for me and I have more then ten knives). You need DMT D8XX to form initial edge and even with this it may take about few hours.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
nozh2002 said:
From what I have - it may have worse in the industry out of the box edge. In addition to worse sharpness - edge is extremely thick. Factory angle from what I tested was about 30 degree. But with thickest edge I ever see on new knives make it almost impossible to sharpen with Spyderco Ceramic, even with Spyderco Diamond rods it may take several days to remove all this metal to make reasonable edge. I went through this pain myself few times, until found cure once and for all.

Spyderco sharpmaker assume good edge on the first place to be sharpened - this is not a case (at least never was for me and I have more then ten knives). You need DMT D8XX to form initial edge and even with this it may take about few hours.

Thanks, Vassili.
Click to expand...

Most Busses that I have seen, or owned, could benefit from a regrind (stock thinning) ...

which makes sharpening far easier. :)
 
Absolutely! I would say it also will benefit not only from good profile, but as well from good sharpening, attention to details, provided sheath, availability (not second hand), wide model line and many other thing... Which you may easy found quite a bit elsewhere.

But most important I would say ability to discuss issues in intelligent, respectful and calm discussion...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
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