• The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
    Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
    Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.

  • Today marks the 24th anniversary of 9/11. I pray that this nation does not forget the loss of lives from this horrible event. Yesterday conservative commentator Charlie Kirk was murdered, and I worry about what is to come. Please love one another and your family in these trying times - Spark

Sharpening crk

You are probably correct in your practice. I'm a bit of a bone-head and once an edge has been reprofiled (the first sharpening), I typically run 100/200 - 400/600 - 800/1000 - both ceramics - maybe some leather honing each time I resharpen. I usually resharpen when the blade is so dull it embarrasses me. :)

To make me look even dumber, I often neglected to record exact blade placement and sometimes didn't bother to set the blade to 0 degrees in the clamp. Of course, this lead to blades with slightly uneven grinds when I sharpened them next (which necessitated starting with a low grit to cut through the apex in a timely fashion).

This year I've been carefully recording the settings for each knife and setting them to zero in the clamp. Hopefully this will make things easier and result in less steel loss.

Recently though, I've been stopping at 600g on Magnacut and really like it. It's literally 1/2 the work compared to what I've always done. When it's time to touch up my new 31 I'll hit it once with 600g to see if that is all that is needed (like you are doing).

I haven't tried stropping a 600 grit cut yet.
Nice! For what it's worth, I'd be happy to share any of my settings, although it will just be for large Sebenzas.

Stropping after 600 grit is a breeze on the magnacut because it deburrs easily on the stones.
 
I also have a K03 and have used the Universal Pro Convex Attachment on my CRKs at the 4.3 degree setting. I set the angle to 19.5 degrees at the apex, and ends up right around 15.7 degrees at the inside of the bevel. For tantos, I do 18 degrees at the apex and 14.3ish degrees at the inside of the bevel.

I’ve stopped doing this and switched back to V edges because I find it overly time consuming to get a convex edge just right, and burr removal is an absolute pain. As cool as they are, for my use cases I don’t get much benefit from the convex edges.

I’m generally using Poltava Premium Metallic CBN stones and stop at J600 grit on MagnaCut CRKs.
So in general: the convex just takes a lot more time and the benefits of a convex edge on a folder aren’t probably not much of a benefit ( I am still finding it out because the crk are the only ones with a convex in my collection) so the v shape is becoming more of an option for me now.

Which angle do you use on the k03 for your CRK’s for a V? I didn’t clamp any of my user knifes yet on the k03 because I am still in the learning fase. I do like clean tight bevels, even trough the belly and tip, and I don’t want to mess them up.

Just want a tight nice sharp bevel, wich I can easily strop up for a reasonable time before touching up.
 
So in general: the convex just takes a lot more time and the benefits of a convex edge on a folder aren’t probably not much of a benefit ( I am still finding it out because the crk are the only ones with a convex in my collection) so the v shape is becoming more of an option for me now.

Which angle do you use on the k03 for your CRK’s for a V? I didn’t clamp any of my user knifes yet on the k03 because I am still in the learning fase. I do like clean tight bevels, even trough the belly and tip, and I don’t want to mess them up.

Just want a tight nice sharp bevel, wich I can easily strop up for a reasonable time before touching up.
I was doing 19 DPS for V edge, but raised to 19.5 more recently and am happy with that.

Here’s the setup I use, for example. Easy to repeat once dialed in.

iuZpdxV.jpg
 
I get my blades sharper faster freehand than any other system. Years ago I used to get an occasional scratch, but not so much any more. On the folders I really care about I tend to use a
Sharpmaker. Takes a long time to bring back a dull edge, but minimal steel is removed.
 
Back
Top