Sharpening CS Recon Tanto with Spyderco Sharpmaker?

C

Cruentus

Joined
Jan 30, 2007
Messages
7
I am trying to refurbish a very used Cold Steel Recon Tanto. It was my buddies combat knife in Iraq, so it has some "sentimental" value and a track record.

It had been beaten up quite a bit, with a little rust. I got the rust off and oiled it up nice. I wanted to put a really nice edge on it.

I have a Spyderco Sharpmaker that does the trick most of the time. But at the preset angles, it doesn't seem to be putting a really sharp edge on the knife (although it did seem to sharpen it a little).

So, what am I doing wrong, or how would you suggest I go about putting a nice edge on this blade? Preferably, I would like to use my sharpmaker to do the task because this is what I have. I am not looking to go through huge pains in the butt to get this task accomplished, either.

So...suggestions?
:confused:

I would appreciate it! :thumbup:
 
The most common cause is the existing angle is too obtuse. Cut it down with an x-coarse hone and then use the sharpmaker.

-Cliff
 
Buck268 said:
FWIW, Cold Steel's answer... http://www.coldsteel.com/faqs.html#13

I take it your not big on freehand sharpening?
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Not really a big fan of freehand sharpening, really. I would try it on my sharpmaker (by putting the stones flat) but I am not sure how I would keep a consistant angle.

The angle on my sharpmaker is "40" degrees, meaning 20 degrees each side, right? The cold steel angle recommendation is 23-25 degrees, accordig to the link. It's just slightly more obtuse, where I am not getting a good edge with my sharpmaker.

I am not so sure that I am comfortable cutting down the knife w/ an xtra course hone, as cliff suggested. I would probably jack the knife up trying. I might see about taking it to someone and seeing what they can do.

Unless there are some other suggestions of things I can do at home here that are simple and effecient?

I don't know. But thanks for the replies so far... :)
 
Bass Pro Shops will sharpen any knife for a couple bucks surcharge, at least in my area. Took one to them years back before I had any stones.

As for freehand sharpening, don't be so intimidated about keeping the angle consistant. Search around the forums for tips, and start on cheap blades you wont be sad about screwing up (or really udll blades that can't get worse). its not hard to become decent at it, although it gets trickier as you strive for sharper edges.
 
Buck268 said:
Bass Pro Shops will sharpen any knife for a couple bucks surcharge, at least in my area. Took one to them years back before I had any stones.

As for freehand sharpening, don't be so intimidated about keeping the angle consistant. Search around the forums for tips, and start on cheap blades you wont be sad about screwing up (or really udll blades that can't get worse). its not hard to become decent at it, although it gets trickier as you strive for sharper edges.
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I'm not horrible at it (not expert either) but it is just kind of a PITA to me, especially as busy as I have been lately.

I will be taking to to bass pro, actually, or a knife shop near me I think. I'll watch what they do and see if it is something I can effeciently duplicate.

Thanks for the tips! :)
 
Well, a the bass pro I went to they had a bench grinder with a grinding wheel and a polishing wheel...
 
I have a newer Recon Tanto and love the knife but didn't like the edge angle either. I have reworked it as well as my SRK using a Lansky. Can't remember the actual angle I used but the Lansky worked pretty well. Started with the x-coarse diamond and worked all the way through. Then I touched up the SRK on a black hard arkansas and stropped it. It will actually shave now. Didn't think I would ever get it to shave but it did.

You might try getting ahold of one of the Lansky systems. Reprofiling, or profiling a new blade is actually all I use it for. I prefer hand sharpening on a stone or stropping for keeping an edge.

Charles
 
If you have it sharpened, ask them to form a bevel less than 40 degrees so your Sharpmaker will work better next time.
 
Buck268 said:
Well, a the bass pro I went to they had a bench grinder with a grinding wheel and a polishing wheel...
Click to expand...

By chance was it the Bass pro in Auburn Hills, MI Great Lakes Crossing Mall?

If you have it sharpened, ask them to form a bevel less than 40 degrees so your Sharpmaker will work better next time.
Click to expand...

Good idea! :thumbup:
 
CShepherd said:
I have a newer Recon Tanto and love the knife but didn't like the edge angle either. I have reworked it as well as my SRK using a Lansky. Can't remember the actual angle I used but the Lansky worked pretty well. Started with the x-coarse diamond and worked all the way through. Then I touched up the SRK on a black hard arkansas and stropped it. It will actually shave now. Didn't think I would ever get it to shave but it did.

You might try getting ahold of one of the Lansky systems. Reprofiling, or profiling a new blade is actually all I use it for. I prefer hand sharpening on a stone or stropping for keeping an edge.

Charles
Click to expand...

Yea, but I am preparing to go out of town for about 4.5 months or so (job/training). I wanted to square it away before I left, and I didn't want to buy new shit to do it. It's a good idea, though; I considered getting one before.. maybe I will when I get back. :)
 
However... I am thinking...

Could I get an Xtra coarse hone for (like a different stone or something) for my sharpmaker that could help me reprofile that angle? I would trust myself to do it that way, I just don't trust myself freehand.
 
hardheart said:
yep, sorta
http://www.congresstools.com/congresstools/catalog?action=getcat&parent=24
The 1/2" triangles fit in the sharpmaker slots, I had a pair of 320, but they go as low as 100 grit.
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Spyderco sells diamond hones for the sharpmaker. Spyderco recommends them for rebeveling edges. They're bloody expensive. How would you compare these as far as how well you would expect them to perform in rebeveling edges? And what grit would you recommend for rebeveling an edge?

I've been freehanding for years, but I still have trouble holding an exact angle. I want to compare a couple of similar steels by giving them the same bevel and reaching the same initial sharpness. My freehanding skill are just not up to it. So I'm looking for options and I'm on a tight budget.

Thanks
 
I'm not the most patient, so I'd go for the 100, and just buy another pair or two in higher grit to polish out the bevel if you want to keep it smooth and shiny (and still much cheaper than the diamond rods). Use those with the 15 degree setting until the blade will shave, then hit it with the regular SM rods at 15, or 20 for a microbevel if you want.
 
Cruentus,

If you'd like, I can resharpen your CS Recon Tanto with some waterstones. Won't change the angle too much, but will make the edge more mirror-like. If that'd work, send an email to tbrogan1 at netzero dot com
 
tsk tsk Thom-Build a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day, set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.

Kind gesture. I'd like to sharpen people's blades, but there's a distinct downside to that, people would end up with edges that I put on their knives.
 
hardheart said:
I'm not the most patient, so I'd go for the 100, and just buy another pair or two in higher grit to polish out the bevel if you want to keep it smooth and shiny (and still much cheaper than the diamond rods). Use those with the 15 degree setting until the blade will shave, then hit it with the regular SM rods at 15, or 20 for a microbevel if you want.
Click to expand...

Thanks hardheart.

Sounds good enough to do what I want at a price that fits my budget. This way I would be pretty much guarranteed that both blades would end up with the same bevel angle.
 
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