Sharpening D2 Steel

D

dgc1

Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
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I have a Queen pocket knife with D2 steel. I like the blades for the way they hold a edge. But it is hard to sharpen once it gets dull, it is a edc an I use it hard. What is the best way to sharpen D2 steel? Thank you
 
D2 is not a particularly hard steel to sharpen IMHO. And its very hard to type into words any sharpening method. Honestly though my best advice is to forgo any of the bigger sharpening systems like wicked edge or edgepro apex. I wouldnt even get a lansky. First of all I own an apex and while it can put a good edge on a knife it is so much of a PITA to set up that unless I am reprofiling a blade I never touch it. I simply use a ceramic rod and the existing edge bevel and I just touch up my blade after every couple uses and never have to worry about bringing an edge back from death. So I recommend getting some good stones which I honestly dont think you need anything amazing. Just good well made flat stones or diamond hones and watch some youtube videos on proper sharpening techniques. I feel the larger systems also have some major drawbacks that simply dont make them good for sharpening knives with wide or long blades. And too large to do smaller knives. Sharpening is an art, and those big sharpeners are like trying to paint a masterpiece with a wagner power painter instead of a brush.
 
I agree. Get some stones or rods and learn freehand. The DMT stones are a good recommendation. You should have an Arkansas stone too for general work, IMO.

I like D-2. it just takes a little more time than some.
 
Moving to MTE -
Sharpening questions belong in the Maintenance section
General Knives is about the knives
 
I use diamonds for fastest results. I had some trouble at first sharpening d2, but have settled on diamond hones (DMT) to 600 grit and then strop it clean. This gives a nice edge that holds for a long time.Once you get the blade sharp, don't let it get too dull and it will be a lot quicker to bring it back to sharp.
By the way- my favorite d2 knife is a queen canoe. They do a nice job with the steel:thumbup:
 
I have done belt sander. But you have to know what you are doing (it is not terribly difficult, but you need to learn it on a knives you don't really care too much about).

I have also used sandpaper on a glass backing.

I have a medium diamond stone, and would have to end my life if I had to reprofile several blades of Queen's D2 that way.

I need better diamonds stones for sure!
 
as others have said the most important thing is to not let it get dull, its much easier to maintain a nice edge then to completely redo a dull one. a little touch up once a week one a fine stone or a fine ceramic or diamond rod. I have a diamond "knife steel" thats oval shaped that works great for keeping my edge on my kershaw rake with CPM-D2
 
Silicon carbide manhandles D2, either in stone form as Norton Crystalon or hardware store combination stone (make sure its dark gray silicon carbide), or in the form of wet/dry sandpaper.
 
dgc1 said:
I have a Queen pocket knife with D2 steel. I like the blades for the way they hold a edge. But it is hard to sharpen once it gets dull, it is a edc an I use it hard. What is the best way to sharpen D2 steel? Thank you
Click to expand...

What tools are you currently using, in trying to sharpen it?

Depending on what you're doing now, some new recommendations may be simpler to adapt to than others. As has been mentioned, the abrasive type can make a huge difference; either diamond or silicon carbide (SiC) will work well in abrading the steel. If you're in the habit of using a bench stone currently (maybe Arkansas or some aluminum oxide stones), but it's not cutting the steel very well, a SiC bench stone isn't very expensive and will improve results. If you're in the habit of using smaller hones (pocket hones, etc.), I'd suggest a diamond hone; it'll work the most aggressively in a smaller size. A 'Fine' diamond pocket hone is likely the most versatile, as it can re-bevel knives such as your Queen, and also can be used for regular touch-ups and other lighter maintenance, leaving a great working edge that'll be toothy and very capable of hair-popping sharpness (assuming good technique).


David
 
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Quite a few people talk about doing short circular motions so you dont lose the angle. Does anyone have any video's showing this technique? I would like to give it a try as I am new to freehand and worry about holding my angle.

Thx.

Please feel free to PM or email links so this thread doesnt get taken over! :)
 
Queen knives often come with a fairly thick edge. Once you thin it out, they sharpen up very quickly and hold a good edge. A lot of folks in the Traditional forum have a lot of experience with this, you might want to move this thread over there.
 
sir_mike said:
Quite a few people talk about doing short circular motions so you dont lose the angle. Does anyone have any video's showing this technique? I would like to give it a try as I am new to freehand and worry about holding my angle.

Thx.

Please feel free to PM or email links so this thread doesnt get taken over! :)
Click to expand...

Take a look at the videos posted by members 'jackknife' and 'Downhill Trucker', in the post linked below. In the first video (titled 'Instinctive Knife Sharpening'), at about ~10 minutes into the vid, Carl ('jackknife') demos the circular honing technique on a small pocket stone. I've used an essentially similar technique on my DMT 'credit card' hones. In fact, I used this method the very first time I tried out one of those hones on a Queen 'Country Cousin' folder in D2; worked pretty fast in setting new bevels. The videos posted demonstrate many simple ways to sharpen a traditional knife (Carl's sharpening an Opinel), and it's all good viewing and great instruction. :thumbsup:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...Sharpening-Need-help!?p=11819567#post11819567


David
 
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Some good advice here and some bad. I've only sharpened one D2 blade and it was extremely damaged, and a very thick blade (Benchmade 156). It took absolutely forever on Nubatama waterstones. I did the majority of the work on the Bamboo 150, which is very abrasive. I don't think waterstones are a good match for D2 at all. Arkansas stones would probably do almost nothing to that steel. But I haven't tried it.

If I had it to do again, I'd use my WSKO on that big blade instead. Or if I didn't have the WSKO, I'd go to the DMT stones. I'm sure they will eat D2 just like everything else.

Brian.
 
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