Sharpening help needed

after The Chef goes to bed I will reprofile with the Shapton Glass and put on the final edge refinement with the 1200.
Done.
So I started in on the Damascus clad Boker Gent One with a Shapton Glass 220 and magic marker on the factory sharpening bevels. Once I got to the edge on the steeper bevel and reprofiling it down to the edge I did the same on the shallow side. When I finished tonight the steeper bevel was between 2mm and 2.5mm wide; the shallow bevel side was about 0.5mm wide ! But at least now I can touch up on the Edge Pro quick and easy.

Long story short I went on to Shapton Glass 500, 1,000 and 4,000. There was almost no bur / just a hint and the edge was easily hair whittling on my arm hair while in my arm.

THEN I set the top guide block once again with the stone between the stop collar and the top guide block this time for the T2 1200 (~3 micron) . . . the Shapton Glass 4,000 is just under 4 micron. I figured since the T2 was textured from the saw cuts I would just do "stropping" edge trailing strokes. I went back and forth side to side with fewer and fewer strokes as I had with all the other stones and tried the edge on my arm hair.

It was easily hair popping shave sharp but the edge had deteriorated from the application of the T2.
I reset the guide block for the Glass 4,000 and "touched up" the edge and we were back to easily whittling again.

I then went on just for grins with the Gritomatic G8 8,000 stone. I was expecting tree topping but there was not much of an improvement (((good old Glass 4,0000; I'll tell you what ! ! ! !))).
My feeling is that if I hadn't beat up the edge with the T2 the G8 would have been able to make more of an improvement; just a feeling.

FINALLY :
I put cross hatch pencil marks the length of the T2 1200 and using water lapped it a bit on my 10" DMT 320 diamond plate a stone I know to be extremely flat (checked on my Starrett surface plate).
The T2 immediately sucked down onto the diamond plate; I could have removed my hand and it would have clung to the diamond plate held vertically ( or upside down).

I rubbed the T2 a bit and checked the pencil marks; for the most part they were coming off evenly with a bit of emphasis on the ends of the stone (disappeared entirely there first). Really though the stone was FLAT it just has an ever slight saw texture to it. I did reverse the stone end for end on the plate and rub in various patterns; back and forth and ovals.

While I typed this I left the stone to dry so I could look at the surface with magnification.
ALL of the saw marks are gone ! The stone looks as you would expect an extremely fine grit stone to look.

More later when I need to sharpen something else.

Part of the attraction of the T2 stones (the 150 and the 1200) is that they have the potential to make really good portable stones for free handing. They are so hard and wear resistant.
 
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I also do not recommend using diamond plates to condition the stones,
Oops. Some how this thread hadn't updated when I looked back or some stuff.
All I can do is move forward from here.
 
It would be Hep if Gritomatic put a notice in the box that said : Warning; unusable sucky stone. It is up to the customer to fix it.
AND HOW TO DO THAT ! ! !

. . . ok, OK, ok . . . I've calmed down . . . I have a great selection of silicon carbide grit, I just have never used it for conditioning stones before.

Which grit do I want to use to condition the T2 1200 please ?
 
Wowbagger Wowbagger In my experience the diamond plate concern is only for coarser stones, about F320 and below, as rather than tearing out particles whole leaving a rough surface they can cleave and polish particles into flat plateaus. I am using a well-worn DMT XC for stones F600 and above and I do not find these stones to perform better when conditioned with fine SiC grit instead.
 
Wowbagger Wowbagger And thank you for your report! The treated stones can have a "crust" that will behave differently than the deeper layers of the stone, so I suggest you lap off a bit (maybe as much as half a millimeter) before you decide what the stone is capable of.
 
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