Sharpening Help Needed

[Obsessed with Edges]

After say 100 passes each side on sandpaper can I move to coarse stone and then continue on?

It depends. How coarse is the sandpaper (what's the grit rating on it?), and what kind of coarse stone are you using? I'm trying to get an idea of how the grit compares, between the two. It might be redundant or counter-productive if the coarse stone is as aggressive, or more so, than the sandpaper. If that were the case, you might be able to move to a medium grit instead. My personal preference is to finish with the same type of media as I began with (sandpaper, in progressively finer grits). It's easier to predict the finished results that way, as the abrasive type is consistent, and only the grit size is reduced in a sensible sequence.

Also, I don't generally count the number of passes. That varies widely, depending on steel, pressure, technique, etc. I'm in the habit of frequently testing/inspecting the edge as I go. When I've verified that a burr has formed along the full length of the edge, or that the edge is cutting nicely, that generally tells me it's time to move to the next grit.

 

[Keegaroo]

It depends. How coarse is the sandpaper (what's the grit rating on it?), and what kind of coarse stone are you using? I'm trying to get an idea of how the grit compares, between the two. It might be redundant or counter-productive if the coarse stone is as aggressive, or more so, than the sandpaper. If that were the case, you might be able to move to a medium grit instead. My personal preference is to finish with the same type of media as I began with (sandpaper, in progressively finer grits). It's easier to predict the finished results that way, as the abrasive type is consistent, and only the grit size is reduced in a sensible sequence.

Also, I don't generally count the number of passes. That varies widely, depending on steel, pressure, technique, etc. I'm in the habit of frequently testing/inspecting the edge as I go. When I've verified that a burr has formed along the full length of the edge, or that the edge is cutting nicely, that generally tells me it's time to move to the next grit.

The sanpaper I used says 175 on the back and says meduim on the package. I use arkansas stones since thats what my father always used, but Ill buy some more sandpaper to maintain the abrasive. Also does the brand of sandpaper matter?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

The sanpaper I used says 175 on the back and says meduim on the package. I use arkansas stones since thats what my father always used, but Ill buy some more sandpaper to maintain the abrasive. Also does the brand of sandpaper matter?

OK. 175 is pretty coarse, especially for knife sharpening (I'm assuming it's the black stuff?). The Arkansas stone isn't likely too aggressive, by comparison.

The wet/dry sandpaper from 3M or Norton is very good. They both use silicon carbide as the abrasive, which is very effective on steel. The 3M paper can usually be found in the 220 - 600 grit range at places like Home Depot/Lowe's, or at Walmart. Finer grits, up through 2000 or so, can sometimes be found at Auto Supply stores (they're often used for refinishing on cars). The Norton brand can be found in a wide range of grits, up to 2000 or so, at Woodcraft stores (or through their online site). Woodworkers often use it to resharpen chisels & plane blades. I'd assume other woodworking outlets would also carry something similar.

 

[Keegaroo]

I was able to get decently even, and you were right the one side has a much taller bevel. It isnt perfect, nor shaving sharp, but it will do for what I need. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I was able to get decently even, and you were right the one side has a much taller bevel. It isnt perfect, nor shaving sharp, but it will do for what I need. Thanks again for all the help.

You're welcome.

With some practice, you'll get there. I've grown to really like using the sandpaper, over leather or hard backing, to maintain my knives. To refine the edges I've re-bevelled, I've been using a range of wet/dry paper. Most of the maintenance gets done with a sequence of 400/600/800/1000/2000 (and most of that is usually with the 1000/2000). I follow the 2000 grit with stropping, using compound (Simichrome) on sanded leather, or lately on balsa, and then some light passes on a bare leather strop. I 'test' my edges by slicing phonebook paper, using the full length of the cutting edge (heel to tip). If I can slice the paper cleanly, using a full heel-to-tip draw cut, I consider that to be an excellent working edge. Convexed edges are a bit tougher to make 'shaving sharp', as the shape of the edge is a bit thicker by design. That doesn't mean you can't get it there, with some time & practice, though.