Sharpening help!

A 1" x 30" belt sander takes up less table space than an 11" x 9" piece of paper - you have the space!

I've found that using a hard-backed surface for stropping is more forgiving than using a soft-backed surface. Your joints and nervous system will you a slightly convexed edge even when you're not trying (they move in arcs).
 
Hey Thom,

Actually, I really DON'T have space, unless I invade the kitchen. I live in a VERY urban area. No workspace or garage. Plus, I would love to learn how to work by hand before trying my hand at a sander. Everything I've read says to be VERY cautious/practiced before playing with powertools. I may go about building myself a strop, though.
 
Fair enough. Steel dust in the kitchen doesn't keep people on friendly terms.

If you can glue belt-leather to MDF, you can make a strop. It may cost upwards of $6 to make an oversized 3"x15" strop, but it can be done. Good luck in your quest!
 
Gatman, I started convexing a little while ago on an older folder. First try with the sandpaper/mousepad method resulted in a very sharp and surprisingly even convex edge. I liked it so much I decided to convex my SS. (I had already been stropping the SS on a 4 sided strop, so the convex process had already begun). Then I made a little mark on the tip of the SS, which resulted in a decision to take the curve out, and then convex the SS.

I tried that first with the sandpaper/mouse pad method. Bad idea!!. As soon as I got a sheet of glass from the hardware store, much better. But I had no idea it would take so stinking long to take the curve out of the SS. And that was using 50 grit Gatorgrit emery paper. After the edge was flat I started on the soft backing. (however the convex was almost all the way formed already, as the free hand removal of metal had already started the process). I don't really have a work space (unless I move the wife's car out of the garage and set up my table). all the work was actually done in my living room on a foldable dinner tray type table.

I would definitely recommend using more than one knife to practice before moving on to Infi.
 
Since I (now) have a Jackhammer (that already has a convex edge), it seems to me that a mousepad and sandpaper should work just fine for a convex. Just need to come up with a soultion to make those two little bit "easier" to have with me out in the field. Or, it all deppends on how long a convex INFI holds an edge (I'll only cut and stab, NOT chop). I mean it maybe is enough if I sharpen it back at the base.
I don't want to use diamant or ceramic and risk to destroy that convexed edge. I'm a noob at this, ffs :)

I don't know if I got it right, but there is no "manufactured" sharpening tools for a convexed edge?

What do you guys reccomend for "maintaining"-purposes out in the field?
 
Here is the sharpening info that came with my SHBA

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bluka94 said:
What do you guys reccomend for "maintaining"-purposes out in the field?
Click to expand...

One of the tools you said you don't want to use, of course. Sorry.

I use a Spyderco Double-Stuff (medium/fine) to maintain edges when I'm away from my sharpening sanctuary. The beauty of having human hands is that they're a built-in soft backing. The ceramic won't flex, but the flexing of your soft tissues and wrist will be good enough. If you're really worried, match the ceramic stone to as close to the edge as you can and scrub from end to end making small circles the entire way. Do that on both sides and then lightly and gently slide the ceramic up and down both sides of the edge to remove any wire edge. Guaranteed convexity. You can also strop on the Double-Stuff's leather carrying case. Just don't load the strop with rouge or green stuff or you'll have really dirty pockets.
 
Thom, CJP...that was all fantastic information and just the kind of stuff I'm thinking a lot of us knife noobs really need. Thank you very much.

BFT, Thanks for your info as well. It just so happens that I don't have a garage, but I do have some of those folding dinner tables that I can use. I will probably go about getting together materials this weekend for stropping/sharpening. I may start with my SOG Trident, then maybe the blade on my Leatherman, before going on to my Cultie and GW.

Any advice on that stuff? I will, of course, pore over the info linked in this thread.
 
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=506342&highlight=Justabuyer

that is Justabuyer's on line edge reprofiling/sharpening class. He has a list of materials to buy (I did not have the scratch to buy the stones, but they would definitely speed up any removal process you have).

For simply convexing, but not really removing tons of material (like I did when I took the curve out of the SS blade and then convexed it) sand paper will not take super long. I reprofiled and convexed a 4 inch folder in one evening, and then the stropping/polishing took a bit more time.

There are also good convexing tutorials on you tube (and some are crap).

Also, Bark River sells tons of convexed blades, and they have a good tutorial on their site (I believe it is using only sand paper and mousepad, and then leather to strop)

I am no good at free hand sharpening on stones ( I have never really spent the time practicing). But my two attempts at convexing blades on sand paper have had good results. So I think it is easier.
here are two quick pics of my Ghetto home made strop. quality leather belt, on which I broke the buckle (it was still relatively straight, so it worked). I just glued on the leather smooth side out. And loaded up the leather with the compound (got everything at the hardware store). Tandy leather, or local leather store would be a great source to get some leather.

Just a tip, when you switch from sandpaper on glass (where you can push harder to remove material faster) to the sand paper on the mouse pad, and the leather strop, make sure you aren't pushing too hard. Very soft pressure, basically just the weight of the knife, or the soft material will wrap up past the edge and make it duller.

these pics were before I straightened the edge an convexed it.
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This looks small enough to take it out in the field with me:

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On one side is mouse pad + sandpaper and on other side is leather strope with polish compound. It's its size (compact) that applies to me. Working method is the same.
I think I'll try and make somethink like that.

I don't know if grit # is same here in Sweden as in USA. Is it some kind of standard all over the world or each "region" has its own numbers?:confused:

Gotta read a little...
 
The numbers are very rough guides. 2,500 grit wet/dry sandpaper is similar to 14,000 grit diamond dust and 8,000 and 16,000 grit waterstones. There's a lot more to it, but none of it's worth worrying over.
 
Just a quick warning, the circles method can scratch the finish above the edge if you make an oops or go too low. Better mention that before you try. And Justabuyer's tutorial is uberly cool!
 
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