Sharpening high hardness and wear resistant steels

Also, even if you don't round the edge microscopicly, you are still reducing edge endurance and take away the performance of those cemented carbides that you pay all that money for.


I think this is the best comment, I don't know if ppl really get what they are in for when they pick up S110v. I know that this was my second knife and attempt at this steel. I wasn't ready to accept its attributes the first time around.


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If stropping on a good hard surface, edge endurance/longevity shouldn't suffer. The lateral loading from stropping is nothing compared to the lateral loading from steerage or even from working the apex on a hard stone.

If chasing a refined edge on s110v, take it to a fine or extra fine DMT and microbevel on the EEF. The edge lasts a long time, though will perform better for pressure cutting than draw cutting.

Otherwise, a medium finish straight off the stone will last a long time on a lot of tasks.
 
Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays !

HeavyHanded,

Sharpening on diamonds took about 15 minutes total

Otherwise, a medium finish straight off the stone will last a long time on a lot of tasks.

On the DMT coarse there was still evidence of chipping. Transition to the fine and the chipping faded away. Off the EF the edge was nice and uniform, no evidence of any edge defects from the abrasive. Off the EEF, the edge turned out very nice, slight scratch haze still in evidence. IMHO the ideal edge on this knife is probably the fine DMT

Sorry if I am asking about something that has been addressed . . . in fact I think I read that you were pressing down, at least on the coarse, firmly . . . but my question is ARE YOU pressing down firmly or very firmly to get the new original apex and from there how much force are you using on the medium and F to EEF if you go there? Early in the year people were recommending light to very light force on the X coarse and or coarse and that did not work for me as far as producing a sharp initial apex.

Bluntcut,
carbide size should taken into consideration (WC is much smaller-avg than VC)
thanks for that and the rest of your post :thumbup:
 
Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays !

HeavyHanded,







Sorry if I am asking about something that has been addressed . . . in fact I think I read that you were pressing down, at least on the coarse, firmly . . . but my question is ARE YOU pressing down firmly or very firmly to get the new original apex and from there how much force are you using on the medium and F to EEF if you go there? Early in the year people were recommending light to very light force on the X coarse and or coarse and that did not work for me as far as producing a sharp initial apex.

Bluntcut,

thanks for that and the rest of your post :thumbup:

And Merry Christmas to you and all!

Am taking a break from slot hockey and Legos - good stuff!

When I got to using the diamonds and the Crystalon I used pretty light pressure and kept letting up as I went. Probably only about 6-8 ozs or less. Certainly less as I finished on each stone.
 
Thanks HH,

There must be something seriously wrong with me. Besides just the obvious.
I was using the little extra coarse from my aligner and it seemed to just do nothing much try various ways of using it as I might.
It WAS brand new though. I am learning they need to be broken in.

Looking forward to getting another VC blade for a rematch. If my ego can take it.

Cheers.
 
Well, I set the bevel on a well broken in 6" DMT coarse to start and it took a few minutes with light pressure, maybe 15 minutes just on that stone and that on a very thin bevel. I stropped it on the stock Washboard compound w/ the added diamond - edge was great. Then I used it at work for a day or three (can't remember) before starting to sharpen on other materials.

The guided jig I'm using accommodates any stone, so when I came back around to the diamonds the second time I was using 8" duosharps for the coarse and fine, 8" diasharps on the EF and EEF. These plates are broken on but haven't seen too many hours of use, it went real fast. Am not sure how much longer it would take on much smaller stones.
 
....I have sharpened this knife a variety of ways and NEVER observed even a single carbide being "pulled out" of the bevel face. In fact, I would argue that this image shows how well the carbides bind to the matrix.

Todd, This is an interesting article with several references to carbide tear out including a book being mentioned on this specific topic (which is unfortunately in german).
 
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