Sharpening High Vanadium Knives

It's one of the reasons I love the various Sandvik steels. They do a good job of balancing a lot of those performance factors without too many drawbacks.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
It's one of the reasons I love the various Sandvik steels. They do a good job of balancing a lot of those performance factors without too many drawbacks.
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P.J. Tomes, a master smith also known for his forged (and cryo'd) 52100 blades, used (cryo'd) 12c27 for the stainless version of his knives. He felt its grain and characteristics were the closest match to what he did with his 52100 blades.
 
HeavyHanded said:
Please elaborate if it is not crossing into proprietary territory. I've used it on vertical and flat hone rotary with mixed results mostly based on the limitations of the materials and means of preparation. Where it is a good fit it seems to work well very consistently, and where it doesn't, many other strategies tend to struggle as well.
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A 10" slotted paper wheel width is 1" i.e. 25.4 mm, which divided by the 16 spaces between the 17 slots the 10" paper wheel has, gives 1.6mm.
1.6mm is the step from the slot to slot at which I cut a diagonal groove, as shown on the picture.

The resultant 3D pattern of the cross-slots and the diagonal groove on a rotating wheel, transposed from the wheel circumference to a static flat 2D, gives something remotely similar to your washboard, especially at high RPM.
Apologies for smartass terminology, I only try to clearly explain what I've done.

I decided to give it a try having read about your device http://www.washboardsharpening.com and a patterned MDF wheel for Tormek by KWAKSTER https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=3509

I've found out that this grooved paper wheel deburrs better when I struggle to deburr an edge on a regular one, and often gives a better keenness.

grooved_paper_wheel.JPG


Tormek MDF wheel by Kwakster:
Tormek_patterned.jpg
 
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wootzblade said:
A 10" slotted paper wheel width is 1" i.e. 25.4 mm, which divided by the 16 spaces between the 17 slots the 10" paper wheel has, gives 1.6mm.
1.6mm is the step from the slot to slot at which I cut a diagonal groove using a triangle file, as shown on the picture.

The resultant 3D pattern of the slots and the diagonal groove on a rotating wheel, transposed from the wheel circumference to a static flat 2D, gives something remotely similar to your washboard, especially at high RPM.
Apologies for smartass terminology, I only try to clearly explain what I've done.

I decided to give it a try having read about your device http://www.washboardsharpening.com and a patterned MDF wheel for Tormek by KWAKSTER https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=3509

I've found out that this grooved paper wheel deburrs better when I struggle to deburr an edge on a regular one, and often gives a better keenness.

PW_grooved.JPG


Tormek MDF wheel by Kwakster:
Tormek_patterned.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice application of reduced footprint!

I made a bunch of trial disks 9" diameter for wet/dry to be used like a flat hone that worked very well in concept, but I found the application was only a good match for smaller blades. Longer ones would catch on the paper...
 
I tell you what, there are some crafty guys on BladeForums.com...
Unfortunately, I aint one of them..... Carry on Gentlemen...

Russ
 
This is awesome to see, actual solid scientific proof of what I found out myself, where high vanadium steels work best with diamond, otherwise they can experience a kind of rolling. 3% vanadium seems to be the threshold, above and you get apex deformation, at or below and you're good.
 
I just sharpened my s90v blade on the extra fine diamond and I will use it and see if the edge holds better at this level than at the coarse. DM
 
HeavyHanded said:
Looking forward to this! I always found steeling to be a great technique but extremely dependent on finesse - to the point of becoming troublesome. But with enough time in, with the right blade steel, and if the returns are worth it, I can see where it it could and does assume a commanding role in high demand environments.
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The meat plant research is now available on the BESS Forum http://www.bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=327
and our website http://knifegrinders.com.au/15Industrial.htm
 
Yes, my meat cutters I sharpen for are old school too. They don't like seeing the V grind I put on a breaking & boning blade at 15*.
They keep them at 20* and then steeling them turns it convex in short order. DM
 
tiguy, so you work one side of the blade then move the stone and work the other side. Don't slide it into the stop. It's a simple looking device and should work. Especially with diamond stones which need light pressured strokes. Just hold the knife straight and stroke. DM
 
View attachment 921582 I don’t move the stone when working on a knife rather I grind on one side of the blade.then rotate the jig 180 degrees and grind on the other side. I count strokes per side to keep the edge centered and check frequently for burr development which helps me determine when to rotate the jig. The stones can be inverted to even up wear, and sucessively finer stones are used to refine the edge.
My power version (the handle maker) is more difficult to rotate so I walk around it to switch edges.The tilt table allows the grinder to be set at 15 degrees off vertical or any other needed angle. The edge is pointed at the center of the earth. I start at the top of the platen and pull the knife toward me as I move it from top to bottom, much like a stone. I finish the stroke with the tip on the belt. The grind is edge trailing.
The upper tensioning arm is spring loaded, so if I depress the belt above the platen, I can do convex edges. My finest belts are around 1200 grit, but I can move to the stones if I need more refinement. I mostly use the power set up on flea market knives or heavy reprofile jobs using a pail of water to keep the edge cool.
 
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