Sharpening INFI

Joined
Nov 2, 2007
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1,415
Being relatively new to the Busse addiction, I have yet to sharpen any of my INFI. They are all users though, and I know the day will come; sooner rather than later.

I have been using the Gatco/Lansky sharpening system on my other blades for quite a few years. Although it does a good job, I think my Busse's are too big in every direction for it to work on them. Which leads me to my question: How am I supposed to sharpen these things?

What I see recommended the most on this forum is the EdgePro. That's a lot of doggone money to spend on a sharpening system. Momma Jarhead might give me the stink eye if she sees that come through the checkbook. But...sometimes a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.

I see Syderco's Sharpmaker recommended a lot, but it seems as though that is mostly for touch-ups and the Busse's might be too big for those too.

I also see a lot of people stropping their blades. I'm assuming that this is only good for a convex edge though. How do you get the convex edge on there in the first place? Also, I have never stropped before, but am willing to learn.

It seems like I read somewhere, on the Busse Combat website maybe, that a few strokes on a good sharpening steel will get the edge back in alignement and sharp as a razor. I haven't steeled too much either...but again, am willing to learn.

In short, I want to know how to keep a good edge on these blades using the proper equipment. I am not interested in sending them off to have someone else do it. I definitely don't want to ruin the edge that's already there though, so need a reliable system with a learning curve that's not too ridiculous.

Sorry if this horse has been beat to death. I tried the google search function and didn't come up with too much good info.

Thanks for your help!!
 
I have the Edge Pro Apex (the cheaper of the two models) and I think it is good for small to midsize knives. Looking back I wish I would have shelled out the dough for the more expensive one. The Apex is nice, but from what I've heard the Pro model has a much sturdier design.
 
You can strop a v ground edge. It is not very hard. Eventually, it begins to make the edge a bit convex. I imagine if you kept sharpening that way for a really long time , you would eventually have a convex edge.

You can make the edge convex with sandpaper laid on a soft backing (like a mouse pad, or leather backing) There are good tutorials on BF.

The belt sander route will be much much much faster to convex with. But it is also much quicker to mess up your knife if you make a mistake.
 
I am also very interested in this subject. I just bought a strop and some compound and was wandering if after using the strop does it need to be cleaned or do you just reapply the compound on top of what is left? Also I would like to get a belt sander but dont want to mess up my blades, with that being said I also couldnt find any good info on using a belt sander. How is it done on a belt sander? any and all info greatly appreciated!!
 
I am also very interested in this subject. I just bought a strop and some compound and was wandering if after using the strop does it need to be cleaned or do you just reapply the compound on top of what is left? Also I would like to get a belt sander but dont want to mess up my blades, with that being said I also couldnt find any good info on using a belt sander. How is it done on a belt sander? any and all info greatly appreciated!!

Need to know exact same answer.
After using paper i forgot to wipe of excess flakes of steel and now my strops loaded with the stuff the compounds totally grey.
 
I am also very interested in this subject. I just bought a strop and some compound and was wandering if after using the strop does it need to be cleaned or do you just reapply the compound on top of what is left? Also I would like to get a belt sander but dont want to mess up my blades, with that being said I also couldnt find any good info on using a belt sander. How is it done on a belt sander? any and all info greatly appreciated!!
Read this:

http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/s..._session_id/77724a4c5fb99cdaf807e13f8140aa54/

http://www.jerzeedevil.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18391

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585971
 
I have been having a professional convex the edge for me right from the get go. Then I chop the living daylights out of everything! After quite a bit of choping and I mean alot, the edge can usually still shave somewhat. Anyhow by having a professional convex it correctly makes the whole busse experience that much more fun. Now stropping the bade is much easier for me!
 
I am also very interested in this subject. I just bought a strop and some compound and was wandering if after using the strop does it need to be cleaned or do you just reapply the compound on top of what is left? Also I would like to get a belt sander but dont want to mess up my blades, with that being said I also couldnt find any good info on using a belt sander. How is it done on a belt sander? any and all info greatly appreciated!!

A buddy of mine sharpens knives on a 2" by 72" grinder (Burr King?). I know that he free hands it and went through a ton of junk knives learning to hold the correct angle. Then he hits them with a buffing wheel with green rouge compound. I believe he uses a 220 grit, possibly even a 60 grit on Busse's for a working edge.

I have messed a little with the grinder and it takes practice to get the angles even and for the wire edge to appear. Hope this helps and if not, my apologies.
 
its real simple,really.

a spyderco sharpmaker because it works,works well,works easily and can handle even some of busse''s biggest blades.i just touched up my NMFBM on mine.it also packs up in itself so you can throw it in a pack.

best sharpening investment for the leat amount of money one can buy is a harbor freight belt sander for $40 and then you spend $20 on belts from lee valley tool.it cost as much as a full lanskey system,which i used to use,and does 10 times more and does it 1000 times faster.

what used to take an hour on a lanskey takes 2 min on the harbor freight.
 
Thanks for the info guys, this has been a great help!!

You guys are really kind to take the time to help out and I do appreciate it,

Thanks again,
Lee
 
its real simple,really.

a spyderco sharpmaker because it works,works well,works easily and can handle even some of busse''s biggest blades.i just touched up my NMFBM on mine.it also packs up in itself so you can throw it in a pack.

best sharpening investment for the leat amount of money one can buy is a harbor freight belt sander for $40 and then you spend $20 on belts from lee valley tool.it cost as much as a full lanskey system,which i used to use,and does 10 times more and does it 1000 times faster.

what used to take an hour on a lanskey takes 2 min on the harbor freight.
i just touched up my NMFBM on mine.


Which angle are you using on the Sharpmaker to sharpen your NMFBM? 30 or 40? I think 40 is the factory edge and I'm pretty happy with it, I'm not gonna reprofile it...
 
You can strop a v ground edge. It is not very hard. Eventually, it begins to make the edge a bit convex. I imagine if you kept sharpening that way for a really long time , you would eventually have a convex edge.

You can make the edge convex with sandpaper laid on a soft backing (like a mouse pad, or leather backing) There are good tutorials on BF.

The belt sander route will be much much much faster to convex with. But it is also much quicker to mess up your knife if you make a mistake.

Messing up my $600 blade just because I sneeze at the bench grinder is exactly what I am worried about. :eek: So it sounds like you think a strop might work well from the getgo T?
 
Which angle are you using on the Sharpmaker to sharpen your NMFBM? 30 or 40? I think 40 is the factory edge and I'm pretty happy with it, I'm not gonna reprofile it...

Actually I think there's a slight difference, seems like the factory edge is roughly 20 on the right, maybe 22-23 on the left.

A 30 degree total edge would be quite steep on a Busse.

I reprofiled my FSH and a Warden on my Sharpmaker, it's the deal. Good all around little system. I also have a strop kit from www.japaneseknifesharpening.com and a King 1000/6000 combination wetstone. The wetstone is strictly kitchen duty but the strop kit is most excellent.
 
Another alternative is to learn how to sharpen free hand on some of your less expensive blades.

I was fortunate to have learned that before I got into Infi.
Really found it necessary if I was going camping etc - much easier to throw a Spyderco Double Stuff in my pocket, than most any other options.

Most of the time, a few passes on a glass ceramic rod is all it takes to get it back to scary - but generally I due a quick touch up after I have been using it - so I try not to let it get far out of whack.
If I have been using it hard, normally a fine grit carborundum is all that is needed for prep - or again, the Spyderco double stuff is great for general maintenance.
It is pretty much a fine/extra fine set up. In essence it is a pocket version of the sharpmaker stones, just flat versions, bonded with an adhesive in a leather sheath. -The dark side seems a little less abrasive than those on the sharpmaker out of the box, but it could have been just the one I got.

sp
 
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Just curious, but why not scandi's? I bought the Apex pro model a couple weeks ago, but haven't had the need to use it yet. That thing is a horse! I'm really impressed with the quality.
 
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