Sharpening INFI

[Grimspoon]

So far I've only found it necessary to steel my INFI. I have a Lansky sharpener (basic set) that I use on my BM710D2, but I suspect it would be woefully inadequate if I ever needed to do some serious work work on my INFI.

 

[Blood_Grooves]

Just curious, but why not scandi's? I bought the Apex pro model a couple weeks ago, but haven't had the need to use it yet. That thing is a horse! I'm really impressed with the quality.

Well the only scandi i have is a Mora #740, and I don't Need the apex for it. I can only free hand scandis....

EDIT: oh sorry if I made it sould like the apex can't do scandis.... It probably can, never tryed.

 

[Alex p. Schorsc]

Real men do it freehand on hones!!! Just kidding, but there is a great amount of pleasure to be had doing it the "old way". I do it the old way but use modern equipment. Get a kit of three benchstones. I prefer Extra Coarse (Black) DMT for the first few swipes. Mind you it is not always necessary to use this stone, only when the knife is dull. Then I move on to the DMT Fine (red) stone which is the main sharpening stone. After it gets good and sharp on this stone I finish off on an Arkansas Translucent with oil. In my opinion on such well ground knives such as Randalls, Busses, Chris Reeves, etc. It is not necessary to form a burr. Just always use altenating swipes. A burr is necessary only when there are knicks in the blade or if you reprofile. If you maintain your knife just do a few swipes now and again on the translucent Arkie which acts as a steel. Your benchstones should be the same length as your knife. Some people might want to substitute the ASrkie for a Spyderco Extra ,Extra Fine. I have not tried that but would like to in the future. With the Spyderco you do not need oil. With the DMT's you can use them dry. Just rinse off the filings with water ever now and then. Sharpening is good therapy. Cheers, Alex.