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Sharpening large blades?
- Thread starter Eric_425
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 12,957
Generally I like a slow moving belt sander with a well used sanding belt for super huge blades.
With the longer blades it is necessary to have no obstructions like the other side of the grinder to interfere with making the bevel so the belt sander free hand may be your only hope.
It is possible to make a stop so to speak for making sure of the bevel angle by using a block of wood held firm on the flat side of the belt sander but it is too detailed for me to really go into here. A good commercial type of grinder will usually have a fixture of some kind to make this possible.
If using a typical wheel type of arrangement I just don't see how this can be done unless the space between each wheel is as great as the blade length.
With the longer blades it is necessary to have no obstructions like the other side of the grinder to interfere with making the bevel so the belt sander free hand may be your only hope.
It is possible to make a stop so to speak for making sure of the bevel angle by using a block of wood held firm on the flat side of the belt sander but it is too detailed for me to really go into here. A good commercial type of grinder will usually have a fixture of some kind to make this possible.
If using a typical wheel type of arrangement I just don't see how this can be done unless the space between each wheel is as great as the blade length.
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2005
- Messages
- 2,396
I use a blue DMT folding diamond sharpener on my large knives and move the sharpener down the blade, rather than the blade down the sharpener. I take my time and move slowly, following the bevel of the edge carefully and gently. This puts a rather sharp edge on quickly considering the grit of the blue sharpener.
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,959
The only ways I can think of are free hand. I can't think of any good reason not to learn this skill.
I too, use the stone like a file, moving it rather than the blade. For my big bowie, I rest the pommel on my chair or thigh, point the knife straight up, and hold the end of the blade in my left hand to steady it. I hold the stone in my right hand, and work portions of the edge at a time. (the last third of the blade usually gets dull long before the closer parts) I may finish up by slowly stroking the blade across the stone in the normal manner, to remove the wire edge.
Usually with big knives, we're talking proportionally significant edge damage/dulling. So, a very coarse stone will save you a lot of time. My alumina oxide stones are about 100 grit and 150 grit. If I'd use a ceramic rod or "coarse" diamond, it would take all day.
I too, use the stone like a file, moving it rather than the blade. For my big bowie, I rest the pommel on my chair or thigh, point the knife straight up, and hold the end of the blade in my left hand to steady it. I hold the stone in my right hand, and work portions of the edge at a time. (the last third of the blade usually gets dull long before the closer parts) I may finish up by slowly stroking the blade across the stone in the normal manner, to remove the wire edge.
Usually with big knives, we're talking proportionally significant edge damage/dulling. So, a very coarse stone will save you a lot of time. My alumina oxide stones are about 100 grit and 150 grit. If I'd use a ceramic rod or "coarse" diamond, it would take all day.
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2005
- Messages
- 172
Don't laugh, but I use a GATCO Pocket Gatstix on my BK9. Gets it plenty sharp. For around $ 6.00,I'm satisfied with the results. Not shaving my face, but sure will leave a bald spot on your arm. Easy and simple to use.
