Sharpening my LE FBM

CRK's aren't as customizable as Busse, but the Sebbies can have custom inlays etc and laser etching.

Maquahuitl, those beers sound sweet ;) :D

Irezumi, I can guarantee you that the rougher sandpaper will do a quicker than a rough diamond stone :thumbup:
 
Hey Hawks...too late now...lol....completely done one side and it looks HOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
 
Update..project completed for now..pics below. The flash shows every minute error, as you can tell because the grain in the satin is so pronounced also. You can also see the tiny bit where the factory bench grind finish has intruded onto the satin. To get that out I would need to reprofile the bevel, which can be done easily, I just need more time. In person though it looks very tidy could easily be a factory finish. There is not a single blemish to the satin area. Needless to say, I am so much more happy with my knife than before, oh and it is shaving sharp.

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Irezumi, do yourself a favor and invest in a large Arkansas Translucent benchstone. After coming off the diamond hones use the translucent for a beautiful polished sharp edge. After getting the edge to where you want it you can always just touch up your edge on the transluicent for a "fulfilling knife experience". A good source for these stoners is HandAmerican hones (but their site is being reconstructed and has been down for a couple of months). Another source Hall's . Cheers, from down under but a bit over to the side.
 
Thanks mate...that is something I will do for sure. At the moment, i have gone down as far as the super fine diamond. The pics make it look a little grittier than it really is but the Arkansas would make it even better no doubt.
 
Irezumi, you have done a fine job on this I must say! I have respect for anyone who touches up their INFI, removing the factory edge... its a bleedin' expensive knife to play with in those ways, and is daunting... BUT, mine for example is a user... I am not scared to do anything to this knife, mod wise, cos its a user and I know that INFI is so easy to get back to scary sharp :thumbup:

That edge looks nice and smooth, so go start beating on something with it!


:D Alex


ps - I see what you mean mate, some of those grind marks are DEEP! :eek:
 
Ban said:
The grind marks on the satin finish means that you changed the angle a little bit more acute than the factory edge.
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I have the same grind marks on mine and it came like that from the factory.
matthewb5016 said:
I`m hesitant to get one myself if the edge is gonna be nasty like you described.
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I don't think the rough grind takes a whole lot away while chopping. Mine was very rough and it still glided through paper and shaved hair just fine. It still does even with all of the nicks and dings. (You might want to look into a smaller slicer if you want to do intricate cutting. :rolleyes: )
 
Thanks Hawk..appreciate that mate.

Gary...you are right there mate..it was very sharp when I got it with the deep grinds...serrated knives usually do cut well though don't they..lol.
 
The Coarse Grind is on purpose.

You start with a #60 grit belt then polish off the wire edge with a Buffing wheel, this makes for a very aggressive slicing edge.

Lots of Micro serrations.

At least this is the way it was done while I was a Dealer.

In a Working knife this is a really good thing.

Idealy you end up with a Shaving Sharp edge Filled with Micro Serrations and exposed carbides.
 
Papathud...yes you are quite right about the coarse grind...on a combat grade model though. A limited edition should not have an ugly looking edge like that. In my pics you can clearly see how it bit into the satin. For an extra $300USD over a CG more care should be taken. The price of the thicker infi is obviously not the cause of the price increase, which is evident from the recent fat FBMs. The satin finish, well I have a feeling this has been done with a scotchbrite wheel on the bare blade that would normally get coated (you can see in the pics how the grain is not even and changes directions). Below is a pic from a true satin knife I own (the high part is satin)...where a great deal of care has been taken...and even the belt sanded part is ultra even and tidy and done with a fine grit. (Pics courtesy of my mate Daniel)

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Anyway, I have decided to do some more work and get those tiny grind marks out where the satin meets the edge, this will reconvex the edge also. Just waiting on a sapphire stone and then I will post more pics.

This probably sounds like a rant, but I actually love the knife now I have fixed it and it is my favourite knife of all. However, it took a lot of work (and a little more to come) to get to that stage.
 
Irezumi said:
Papathud...yes you are quite right about the coarse grind...on a combat grade model though. A limited edition should not have an ugly looking edge like that.
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You are laboring under a fundamental misunderstanding. In the Busse world, Limited Edition does not mean "special effort exerted to finish". It means "a combination of finish and handles never to be offered again", which is another matter entirely. Just because we all tend to treat them as collector pieces doesn't change that fact.

Rick
 
Hey rbmcmjr...good point and I am starting to get that now. It seems clear that collecting busse's is very different than collecting other types of knives. I will certainly continue to buy them, and in fact I have felt a great sense of satisfaction with the work I have put in so wouldn't mind getting another to fix up when this one is finished. It also made me finally get a stone with a higher grade than super fine :) . I guess the point of this knife is that when you get it, it works, but if you like it a different way, then it aint a big deal to change if you know how. I don't know if it affects the resale value of it but I don't plan to sell it anyway :) ....
 
I put a "v" edge on my Dog Father and it works great. Granted, however, I probably do not do as much heavy duty chopping as some others here. But so far so good. :) But I have always heard the "convex" is stronger.
 
I reprofiled my CG to convex last night with sandpaper. Took it to 2500 and got the results I wanted. Super polished and razor sharp! For me the polished convex grind stays sharper, longer.
 
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