Sharpening my new khuk

R

Rich_S

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Dec 3, 2005
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I've done a bunch of research on sharpening and since I want to maintain the convex edge but don't have a strop, I've decided on the "600 grit wet/dry sandpaper glued to a mousepad" method. How many strokes is this going to take? I've been doing it for 5 minutes and don't feel like I've accomplished anything.
 
It's gonna take some time, maybe even hours or a day. Start with a rougher grit like 150 then 180, 200, 250, smoothing out the scratches as you go to a higher grit up to 400 or even 600.

James
 
Go to the thrift store and get an old belt. One layer with rough "suede" type leather on the back. Cut off the buckle. Nail it to a board close to the same width as your belt. Load with compound. Lowes has those, but so does Woodcraft, or any other woodworking store or website. I use tripoli from Woodcraft, and the gold pollishing compound. Make a different strop for each compound you buy. Get an agressive cutter, and also a polisher. 2 should do. I get two strops from a belt. This solution will cost you very little. I can't imagine sharpening taking hours. I have a 1x48 belt sander though. Even before I had that I've never spent more than an hour sharpening anything. Takes a day to lap the sole of a plane, and that is substantially more work. I think 150 grit sandpaper on a mousepad is too rough. I'd start with 220, but only if I'd had a knife fight with a chevy. Once you get an edge move to the strop. Dont try to get the knife sharp with the sandpaper, or whatever else you use to remove lots of metal. The strop will get you a razor edge in just a few strokes.
 
Rich_S said:
Egads, I bought 600, 1000, and 1500.
Click to expand...

Rich those are finishing grits. Sorry. I prefer to use the wet or dry paper as I think it lasts longer and cuts the metal better, if I'm not mistaken it is silicon carbide versus carborundum which means that it's a harder grit.
The 150 grit is pretty coarse to start with unless the edge needs to be taken down quite a lot. Generally the 220 grit will do the job, then progress to the finer grits if you want.
Personally I seldom go past the 220 before I strop but I like a toothy edge.
 
:D


I use this paper:

3M No-Load Sandpaper

At the lower grits (220-600) this removes metal better than any other paper I've used, and won't load up like garnet and aluminum oxide, or dull quickly like silicon carbide.

For polishing over 800 grit, silicon carbide is the way to go. But I can satin finish an entire khukuri - both sides - with a 1"x2" of each grit. Lasts a long time as long as you wipe the gunk off every once in a while.

It also won't "crack" or crease if you fold it (compared to garnet, A/O) and keeps its "grit" longer than S.C. It's hard to explain...just get some and try it out. Use WD40 to help it cut more aggressively.

I bought 4 sheets of each grit about 8 months ago and I haven't even gotten halfway through it yet. Great stuff.
 
So Dan,

how exactly do you sharpen your knives? now that I know what paper you use, I need to know a technique. I want to get my 18" Sirupati razor sharp.
 
I use a belt sander...:D :p


But, if I was doing it by hand...I would (and did in the past) glue a small piece of padding to a block of wood, wrap the sandpaper around it and go at it.

I had a CD I put out with all the info....but have long since stopped copying it. Too much work for no pay. :( Plus I ran out of CDs and envelopes....:o :rolleyes:

But that's the basic idea. Maybe someone here can burn a copy? thombrogan....where are you? (official duplicator)
 
Daniel Koster said:
But, if I was doing it by hand...I would (and did in the past) glue a small piece of padding to a block of wood, wrap the sandpaper around it and go at it.
Click to expand...

Ahh, maybe that's my problem. I glued an 8x8 piece to a mousepad and have been pulling the knife across it like you would with a strop. Do you just rub the sandpaper up and down the edge with the knife fixed?
 
Daniel, instead of burning copies of your CD why not just make an ISO image available instead. Then you could transfer it via MSN or maybe a site like yousendit.com. As long as it is not copyrighted material it would be legal and easy to do. Or, if you would rather not be inconvenienced with it, just send me the ISO and I would make it available via one of my online accounts. Just some thoughts on it as I would like a copy of your CD as well.

Jack
 
I can handle 400MB on an AIM file transfer. Anyone who has it let me know if you have the means to get it to me. I have no shortage of tools, but a very limited knowled of the convex bevel edge.
 
I would prefer FTP or some other medium where a file transfer can be resumed if something happens -- you don't want to start all over again.

Ultimately whatever works for you, Dan. I just don't want to install AIM if I can avoid it. ;)
 
I could host the sharpening CD on my website and allow a limited number of downloads each month. I have a fair amount of space and bandwidth that are not being used. However, I'd need a copy of the CD.

Danny has an interesting idea too. I wonder if Yangdu would want to offer a (this one?) tutorial on convex sharpening with purchaces.
 
all very good ideas....I'm crazy busy right now...could somebody please remind me after the new year, and we'll do something about it. thanks!
 
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