Sharpening on 2x72

[AVigil]

Recently I have been tilting the platen to the degree wanted and hold the blade perpendicular to the floor ( zero degrees). You can get a level app for your phone.

It gives a very precise edge.

If you are worried about not being able to hold the blade at 0* put a bubble jig on it to keep it at zero.

 

[colu41]

What grit on the grinder would get it to be burr free before being able to strop?
I've recently went from 400 g, then to the buffer, now I'm doing 800g then the buffer. Should I go up to say 1200 grit then strop?

 

[REK Knives]

I've tried it, doesn't work, it can slide around and it still tilts off. I've used a big neodymium magnet plus a drop of super glue to hold stuff but you have to be careful how much force you put on it. It's better to use a fixture that holds the blade if you're not using a hole in the tang.

I use a parallelogram because it's compatible with my process, but there are a bunch of different ways to skin that particular cat. What's important is maintaining some control over that angle so the grinding process is controlled. That and using coolant.

However a person goes about do it, it they find they're getting much of a burr they may have a problem with their process. Also, if a knife isn't burr free and shaving hair it's not ready to strop <--- that's a short cut that masks other problems and gives mediocre results.

Ok guess I can throw that idea out the window! lol. Thanks for sharing

 

[AVigil]

What grit on the grinder would get it to be burr free before being able to strop?
I've recently went from 400 g, then to the buffer, now I'm doing 800g then the buffer. Should I go up to say 1200 grit then strop?

I go from 120 to 220 or 400 then strop. It leaves a toothy edge that cuts flesh well.

 

[stezann]

Water cooling the belt will actually speed up the process of setting the apex (and when doing big batches of blades), but for the final honing the whetstones are hard to beat.
The old technique is not really that difficult, i only suggest having the stone high at the navel/elbows level... it will help very much to be consistent with the angle

 

[mete]

Heat damages edges!! Water cooling gives you a better edge --that's all been proven !!

 

[colu41]

Heat damages edges!! Water cooling gives you a better edge --that's all been proven !!

So is establishing an edge on a dry grinder not ok? I don't know anything about cooling systems for a grinder. I am willing to get some whetstones though as I've always wanted to try them
If that's the case then I really don't understand how people can grind after HT. I was always under the assumption to "not burn the edge" and its fine.

 

[AVigil]

So is establishing an edge on a dry grinder not ok? I don't know anything about cooling systems for a grinder. I am willing to get some whetstones though as I've always wanted to try them
If that's the case then I really don't understand how people can grind after HT. I was always under the assumption to "not burn the edge" and its fine.

Yes it is fine, it is done everyday by some of the best knifemakers in the world.

Just be sure to do it correctly and have a light touch.

 

[HSC ///]

Water cooling the belt will actually speed up the process of setting the apex (and when doing big batches of blades), but for the final honing the whetstones are hard to beat.
The old technique is not really that difficult, i only suggest having the stone high at the navel/elbows level... it will help very much to be consistent with the angle

1000 grit waterstone and then strop with loaded leather
agreed it's not that difficult,
but I'm not doing any real production and I find sharpening by hand meditative

 

[colu41]

Yes it is fine, it is done everyday by some of the best knifemakers in the world.

Just be sure to do it correctly and have a light touch.

Ok. I'll start by maybe wetting the blade before each pass, then once I establish a burr, I'll go to whetstones. I was playing around with an old cheap 1000 grit ceramic I had and can still get a knife shaving hair. I'll just have to take a little more time on each blade.

 

[stezann]

i am afraid also to grind a hardened blade, but it is actually less dangerous than putting the very edge on a dry belt.

 

[elementfe]

My "farmers market" routine is to set the bevel with cheap 220 AO belts (on a 1x30), give it a pass or two on a 45m Norax, then a pass on a 5m Norax. At this point there's a visible burr, which I knock off by "slicing" a piece of sturdy leather- you see the sparkly stuff Nathan mentions. Then, another pass on the 5m and check to make sure there's no burr.
At this point, almost any knife will do the fancy paper slicing tricks that are so dramatic. Most people have never handled a knife that sharp. For those who are familiar with really good edges, a light pass on a ceramic hone will get that last bit.
This is all done dry, to the shock and dismay of many, but the edges are wicked and durable, so *shrug*
I DO, however, do it all with fresh belts ABOVE the platen, and thus avoid heat buildup.
I sharpen for some very fussy chefs, and have no complaints re: soft edges.
At home, it's bench stones for maintenance- diamond for stainless, waterstones for carbon.

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

I use my scandi grinding jig to grind the final bevels in on my knives. The only thing I do differently is put the knife in it so the edge is facing down(when I'm grinding a primary bevel with it the edge is facing up). With the edge facing down, I adjust the platen to the desired degree, and I'm good to go. I check all the angles with both an analog and digital angle finder. Very precise and easy way to get repeatable edges. I have a bunch of these jigs so it's easy to setup 10 knives and do them all at once. I can grind bevels in no problem by hand but this is actually easier.

This is the jig. Again, the edge is facing down when doing the final edge. Also, the base of the jig now has a solid base plate. See bottom pic.

 

[colu41]

I use my scandi grinding jig to grind the final bevels in on my knives. The only thing I do differently is put the knife in it so the edge is facing down(when I'm grinding a primary bevel with it the edge is facing up). With the edge facing down, I adjust the platen to the desired degree, and I'm good to go. I check all the angles with both an analog and digital angle finder. Very precise and easy way to get repeatable edges. I have a bunch of these jigs so it's easy to setup 10 knives and do them all at once. I can grind bevels in no problem by hand but this is actually easier.

This is the jig. Again, the edge is facing down when doing the final edge. Also, the base of the jig now has a solid base plate. See bottom pic.

How are you able to do this with a completed knife? Seems the handles would prevent it from being square in the jig.

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

How are you able to do this with a completed knife? Seems the handles would prevent it from being square in the jig.

Nope, I do my sharpening prior to attaching the handle. I know some folks balk at the idea of doing heavy work on a knife after the handle is attached, but it works for me. If you know how to wrap up a handle well, it's not a big deal. I do oil, then printer paper, then electrical tape, then a couple pieces of thin wood/more electrical tape, and done.