Sharpening on the belt grinder,advice.

T

Toxey

Joined
Oct 11, 2005
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112
I needs some advice on sharpening knives on the belt grinder.
My setup is the coote grinder,ceramic platent,3 step pully,and reversible.
My first question is what grit to start out with and whether to run in forward or reverse.
Second questions is on how to determine angle and keeping a consistent angle on both sides of the blade?
Are there any gigs out there to help me with this?
I am wanting to learn to do this freehanded,at this time though I am very nervous about attempting this.
All do's and dont's advice are greatly appreciated.
Thx
 
I have two belt grinders but I still put the final edge on with a diamond rod by hand. I use a 320 grit belt to start the edge and make sure it is even and straight on all planes but the diamond rod finishes the edge.

Every knife maker will have a different technique or process. Try as many as you can.
 
I have recently started using a 1x30 and playing with convex edges. I do believe that I'm going to love this system and this edge. Seems very strong and the belt grinder, in slack mode works great to put the edge on.

As for grit, I started with 120 for the coursest. Mainly because I'm learning and find that using a finer grit than normal keeps me from making horrible, irrepairable mistakes. Getting ready to now go to 220, then 400, then strop on a leather belt with rouge. I don't care to have a perfectly polished edge since all of my knives are users, not show pieces.

Get an old, dull knife and start practicing. I think you'll find you like it.


Charles
 
You might check out the tutorial on Daniel Koster's homepage. It has several short film clips showing how he sharpens knives.

I think its the same method you are asking about.
 
THx,

Establishing an edge using your belt grinder is easy, with a few simple accessories.

I use a KMG with a 2"-3"-4" pulley system. I establish edges on the slowest speed.

If you have a thick edge, with a lot of metal to remove, I would start with a 120 grit belt. If you have ground your blade to a fine thin edge, I would start with a 220 grit belt. The second choice is the one to shoot for.

To maintain the same angle of approach, each time you put the edge to the belt, I would suggest making hardwood wedges, that are cut at the proper angle. I use 12 degrees.
I cut the ones I use on a miter box. They are 11/ 4" wide by2'' long tapered to nothing on the thin end. I glued a piece of leather on one side, the knife blade will rest on this. [no scratches on the blade when you do this]
Technique: Start your grinder on it's low speed, "float" the wedge atop the belt, with the hand not holding the knife. wood side down, leather side up. Place the knife blade on the leather covered wedge, lock your wrist at this angle, lift the wedge from the belt and draw the edge across the belt.
To do the other side, just reverse the wedge to the other hand, lay it on the surface of the belt, apply blade to the leather, lift the wedge and draw the blade across the belt.
I have used the same oak wedge for three years. You hold them very lightly against the belt surface.
Once the edge starts to get, evenly, sharp, from recasso to tip, change to a finer grit belt.
I finish with a 600 grit AO belt, then a few strokes on a ceramic stick and you are ready to shave.
If you have any questions about this technique, give me a call. My 800 number is on my webpage.

Fred
 
Thanks foor all the advice guys.
Fred,I need to ask you a few questions about your technique.
I need to know what you meen by floating the wedge and lifting it as well.
Really interestd in thia way of sharpening
 
Toxey said:
Thanks foor all the advice guys.
Fred,I need to ask you a few questions about your technique.
I need to know what you meen by floating the wedge and lifting it as well.
Really interestd in thia way of sharpening
Click to expand...

Thx,

Floating; refers to placing the wedge on the moving belt with a light touch,
holding the wedge gently in the fingers of one hand while the other hand places the knife blade atop the leather covered wedge.

Once you have done this and you have your wrist locked in this position, you pick the wedge up off the belt [lifting] and draw the blade across the belt at this set angle.

amr.jpg


amq.jpg


Hope this helps. Give me a holler if you need more clarity.
Using this jig allows you to put a very even, professional edge on your knives.

Fred

The blade used in the photo is for display purposes only. My finished knives look a little better than this.
 
Thx Fred ,you explained and illustrated your technique perfectly.
The wedge is only there to set your blade and wrist at the correct angle?
Do you have any problems when you get out toward the end of the blade,say like on a skinner with a up swept point?
Thx
 
Toxey said:
Thx Fred ,you explained and illustrated your technique perfectly.
The wedge is only there to set your blade and wrist at the correct angle?
Do you have any problems when you get out toward the end of the blade,say like on a skinner with a up swept point?
Thx
Click to expand...
I do all mine free hand you can to with a little practice. But I would suggests using scrap steel to learn on. ----------------------:thumbup:
 
I'll just tell you how I do it. Use the lowest speed BTW. I start with a 120 grit, used, then 320, both till I get a wire edge. All edge down grinding with vertical platen with pyroceram(though it works without that), belt running normal, then I buff the 320 grit wire edge at a 45 degree angle on a medium felt wheel on the 1800 RPM buffer, NOT A DREMEL.
I use green SS buffing compound on the felt wheel. I make a light pass at the 45 degree angle to knock the wire edge off, then another pass at about 30 degrees, then do the other side the same. Use a light touch with the felt and it will produce a hair shaving edge. Be careful not to burn the edge in sharpening. That's where variable speed comes into it's own.:eek: I do it freehand BTW.

Good luck.:thumbup:
 
after heat treating, i grind the edge down pretty thin...020 maybe. I then put a convex edge using a 120 and fair out the geometry using a finer grit. I picked this up from Harvey Dean's flat grinding video. then off to the stone. This is all done freehand. Seems to work pretty well, but mucho hand sanding required afterwards. I don't have my buffer set up yet and have no iea how to use a strop, but I have gotten a couple of my W2 knives scary sharp and they have very tough edges. a warning.....the edge must be quite thin before you sharpen or you will end up with an edge bevel that is too thick.
 
Toxey said:
Thx Fred ,you explained and illustrated your technique perfectly.
The wedge is only there to set your blade and wrist at the correct angle?
Do you have any problems when you get out toward the end of the blade,say like on a skinner with a up swept point?
Thx
Click to expand...
Just a slight turn of your wrist and you will have it.

Fred
 
I free hand sharpen,,,
First on a India stone, then on the grinder with the belts.
It goes OK, but the real problem is when I turn on the buffer at the end.

The buffer can make a edge ever so more sharp, or it can dull the edge in a split second.

So far I have not really mastered the buffer.
Sometimes I end up with a very sharp knife, other times I have to drop back and start over with a stone.
 
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