Sharpening Q's, paper wheels and such... + video

69_knives

69_knives

Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
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So I found out about paper laminated wheels for sharpening today while researching something that I was 'developing'. I didn't really find anything like the device I developed so I have some questions about the only thing I came across that seems to do an equal sharpening job; the paper wheel.

I found a couple of videos on youtube of guys using paper wheels to sharpen knives and another of a guy cutting newspaper with a knife sharpened with a paper wheel but
I would like to hear from people that use paper wheels specifically about their longevity and durability. I see how they perform and I think my developement is pretty well on par with the sharpening ability of a paper wheel I just have to do some more testing and research to see if it is a viable and cost effective alternative and worthwhile pursuing.

Anyhow, here is a video of me cutting newspaper with some of the knives that I have sharpened with my method and device.

One is a 10" chinese chef knive that cost $4.99;
a chinese 8" Santoku that also cost about $5.00;
a knockoff SAK that cost about $2.00
and my very first forged knife.
 
I don't have a paper wheel, but I do know that some people around this forum use them.

I like a leather strop for the final touches. I also have a rubber wheel that I use often that really puts a serious edge on pretty much anything.
 
Do you know the maker of the rubber wheel? Does it last a long time and what does it cost?
 
I found that using the paper wheels to put an edge on a knife that is not sharpened at all will wear the grit off the wheels fast , unless you are grinding the blades down to like .010 at the edge before going to the wheels.

I set my blades to a slight bur on the Bader using 220 trizacts , then go to a 400 trizact ( cant recall the #'s , need a darn flowchart and a slide rule for them A # belts ).
I use the grit wheel for one or two passed per side , then go to the ungritted wheel.

A friend has an 8" leather wheel , and that sucker puts a smokin polished edge on a blade if you have it to a burr before going to the leather wheel.
 
i use nothing but the paper wheels to sharpen with and have so for the past 17 years and i still use the first set i bought. its possible a few of thoes vids are mine that you seen. here are a few links i started on the forum about them. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578787
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=608864 here are a few vids that are on the web, you probably seen them too. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plMbnQMQJMg http://www.myculpeper.com/rj/2008richardj4.wmv
i have a few others that arent on the web yet.
my latest video which i plan on replacing with one not quite as dark. http://knifetests.com/kII.html
 
I use paper wheels and love them. You can get some serious sharp with them and I see no reason for them to wear out. The grit wheel isn't really touched by the blade, as the blade is actually cut by the grit on the wheel, which you can replenish anytime it gets dull. The other wheel runs polishing compound and most of its work is done when the bur is gone, although I generally continue until I have a nice polish on the complete edge bevel. I did buy one of these at a Grizzly tent sale and it also seams to work well. The stone turns very slow and rides in a trough of water so the whole process remains cool.

http://grizzly.com/products/Slow-Speed-Grinder/G1036
 
after two sets of wheels , I have given up , the first set was OK , the 2nd set the grit lasted for one knife , I swear I barely touched the blade to the wheel and the grit came off in a cloud , the manufacture did send me a free cup of carbide to regrit with ( which is a pain in the rear to do and doesn't last unless there is some special secret glue you are supposed to use ).
I found neither set to really be true ( round ) either.

For me , I have went back to sharpening on the Bader with belts , much more controllable for me.
 
Thanks for the links and feedback. After doing some more digging I still haven't found anything commercially available that is identical to what I made but I have found a couple instances of others using the same thing so I would have to guess that in their case, it is something that they made like I did.

John T, I believe that grit does have to be glued onto the wheel.
 
OK then, my 'powerstrop' idea is all shot to shit. :)

I can't believe I didn't some across these before now. maybe cause I was searching for what I wanted to call it "powerstrop" instead of 'power strop'. I even registered the domain www.powerstrop.com Hehe, OOps!

Anyway, this PowerStrop thing looks to be about a 3" laminated leather wheel and comes with an arbor for mounting in a drill or mount it to a grinder with the 1/2" hole.. Doesn't seem like it would be very useful on a grinder that is sometimes difficult to work both sides of a tool with a 6" wheel.

What I built for trial purposes is a 6" laminated leather wheel that is 3/4" wide and has a 1/2" arbor hole and fits on my bench grinder and works by applying buffing compound and buffing the edge. I could still produce them, I just can't call them 'powerstrop' as the name is already registered.
 
Hi - I have a set of paper wheels and found the same thing that John did, my grit wears off very quickly for primary bevels. I use a contact wheel or slack belt to put my primary bevel on now, when I develop a wire edge I use a wheel to take it off. A stiff buff will work just as well for this and you can use it for other knife work.

I recent tried using a broken in cork belt with green chrome rouge for my final sharpening and also have had excellent results, very similar to a leather belt I think.
 
i use paper wheels every day. i love them. i did cut a finger 3/4 off when i got the tip of the knife into the wheel . do not drink and sharpen
 
you have to put a good coat of glue on and use a salt shaker to put the grit on. make sure to lay a paper underneath to catch the excess grit. let it set for a few and press it down gently to force the grit down in.
 
John T Wylie Jr said:
like this ?

http://www.knifeandgun.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=LW8

Yes I have reglued the grit on the wheels a few times , but nothing seems to do a great job at both sticking to the wheel AND holding the grit.

a worn 2x72 600 grit belt loaded with rouge makes a nice power strop on the Bader :)
Click to expand...


Yes, just like that.

There's a set of polishing wheels one guy at work uses and I believe that the guy uses 'hide glue' then sprinkles on the emery. Mind you, these are hard cotton wheels and he goes into this dark room with a goat, a large knife and a few wheels then comes out about an hour later with some fully dressed wheels and a smile on his face.
 
i had a guy give me one of thoes hard cotton wheels fixed up like that. it started throwing off chunks one day. now i use it to put mirror finishes on blades and polishing brass.
 
69_knives said:
Do you know the maker of the rubber wheel? Does it last a long time and what does it cost?
Click to expand...

Sorry, I don't know who made it, because I got it second hand at a gun show years ago. The name is not longer visible on the felt siding. It simply won't wear out, but eventually the rubber will dry and get brittle. But as of today, I've had for about 6 years. My wheel is black rubber and not the type of rubber wheel that is impregnated with abrasive.

What about leather wheels? I've heard good things about them. Kind of like a strop on steroids.
 
i heard one leather wheel was as much as a set of paper wheels. i had a friend who had a tormec for his wood chisels. it has a leather wheel on it. he checked out my edges and compared it to a knife he had sharpened along with some chisels. he liked the paper wheel edge and even had me touch up his chisels which he said cut better.
 
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