Sharpening question.

HeavyHanded said:
I use an 8" diamond disk from Kingley North for lapping now. The one I am currently using is 180 mesh, I'll get a 100 mesh if I ever buy a replacement - there is a wide range of grit size available. These cost about $50-60, about half of that if you only get the top plate and glue it to something flat. Made for rotary polishers, just drop a rag in the sink, set it on top and run a trickle of water while manual lapping.
They are no good for sharpening until you get to about 1200 mesh or finer, but the diamond bond is plated extremely strong and these things last. I have lapped/flattened a Spyderco fine, several India stones, Crystalon stones, Arkansas, and also polished facets on solid quartz and a number of other semi-precious stones and this particular lap is just starting to slow down. Plus, being round it has a lot of surface area.
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Are you speaking of the ones with a 1/2" arbor hole? As the other disc need to be glued to a backing in order to use for lapping? DM
 
Lapedog said:
The funny thing is on my Sebenzas I've been able to get them razor sharp with my sharpmaker stones. Also note that I don't use the sharpmaker as designed for that very reason. Most knives are not 30 or 40 degrees inclusive which are the only two settings on the sharpmaker. I find it easier to match the angle to the stone freehand rather than grinding the knife to be 30 or 40 so it matches the sharpmaker setting.

However as all CRK knives come with convex edges it makes it a pain to get my CRKs ground where I can feel the edges laying flat on the stone. I have to kind ofnget rid of that convex edge. The Sebenzas were super easy for some reason the inkosi is being a real pain.
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I too quit using my Sharpmaker as
designed. It became a pain in the rump to find and ATTEMPT to maintain the factory angle while sharpening. I just insert my sharpening stones in the slot on the bottom of the Sharpmaker case and I get much much better results for some reason. I don't have any trouble going through the steps, I just leave it laying flat to use the corners, and turn it on its side to use the flat sides.
 
Now that's what I'm talking about guyz!

This thing got quite sharp, not as sharp as my Sebbies. I am wondering if it is the geometry of the Inkosi's blade.

I seem to get much better results with the sharpmaker medium stone. Speaking of which does anyone have any positive experience with the sharpmaker extra coarse diamon hones? Anyone know how to make them work?
 
Lapedog said:
Now that's what I'm talking about guyz!

This thing got quite sharp, not as sharp as my Sebbies. I am wondering if it is the geometry of the Inkosi's blade.

I seem to get much better results with the sharpmaker medium stone. Speaking of which does anyone have any positive experience with the sharpmaker extra coarse diamon hones? Anyone know how to make them work?
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I have never used the diamond rods, a lot of folks recommend them though. You really shouldn't need them unless you are reprofiling your edge or your knife is completely dull. Your medium stones are more or less used to create a bur and will leave a toothy edge, your fine stones polish the edge and remove the bur.
 
Inwas asking aboutnthe diamond hones because I have no luck with them. I find it impossible to grind with them. The edge of the knife I'm grinding just bounces off the peaks of the grit.

Does anyone have any tips for using the diamond hones?
 
Lapedog said:
Inwas asking aboutnthe diamond hones because I have no luck with them. I find it impossible to grind with them. The edge of the knife I'm grinding just bounces off the peaks of the grit.

Does anyone have any tips for using the diamond hones?
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I have some diamond hones but not ones for the Sharpmaker. Have you tried holding the handle with one hand, and using the other to guide the tip of the blade while pulling the edge toward you. This is my technique when I use the course stone. I put my index finger on the blade spine and place my thumb on the side of the blade to secure the edge on the stone when pulling the edge toward me. When pushing the edge away from you just reverse by placing your thumb on the spine and index finger on side of the blade to hold the edge on the stone.
 
I have tried that but I find it alot more difficult to match the angle that way. I for some reason match the angle best when I hold the sharpmaker rod in one hand and knife in the other.

Do you think putting pressure on the blade against the rod will fix the problm? it just feels like the xtra-coarse diamond rod doesn't bite into the edge at all
 
Lapedog said:
I have tried that but I find it alot more difficult to match the angle that way. I for some reason match the angle best when I hold the sharpmaker rod in one hand and knife in the other.

Do you think putting pressure on the blade against the rod will fix the problm? it just feels like the xtra-coarse diamond rod doesn't bite into the edge at all
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You can try that, but I wouldn't recommend pushing down too hard. Also, assuming you have two diamond rods, try rubbing them against each other, it may help smooth them out some so your blade will get a better bite against the rods.
 
David Martin said:
Are you speaking of the ones with a 1/2" arbor hole? As the other disc need to be glued to a backing in order to use for lapping? DM
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They come with and without the arbor hole. In use the arbor hole makes no difference when lapping. The unmounted disks are plated to thin metal and should be glued to something. For lapping, anything made to cut clean facets on quartz and other is a solid choice for stone/waterstone lapping.
 
Ok, I saw both on the site and was wondering which you used. I would think something more coarse than 180 grit would work better. Thanks, DM
 
Lapedog said:
Now that's what I'm talking about guyz!

This thing got quite sharp, not as sharp as my Sebbies. I am wondering if it is the geometry of the Inkosi's blade.

I seem to get much better results with the sharpmaker medium stone. Speaking of which does anyone have any positive experience with the sharpmaker extra coarse diamon hones? Anyone know how to make them work?
Click to expand...

I use the Spyderco Diamond Rods with pretty good success. The key for me it to go with really light pressure. Let the rods do the work and don’t use much downforce. I never use the edge of the diamond rods, just the flat side. I can say they have gotten much better with time. They definitely need a little use to break them in.
 
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