Sharpening Question

Where is a good place to order strops and sanding blocks, and stuff of that nature?

Also, when I steel the blade using the chakma, how should I hold the thing?
 
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Cpl Punishment said:
My kukris came with a slight hollow grind on the final bevel if anything, certainly not convex.
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Here's the way I see it... non-villager HI khuks want to be full convex grinds, but the edge itself is not quite "finished." Its surface is textured & may not follow the line of the rest of the blade. I take metal off of the blade until that textured edge disappears & it looks like the pic on the right:

grinds2.jpg
 
I didn't have much luck with sanding blocks/pads. It's probably a patience thing. What I've found useful is the Lansky Puck and their nifty little retractable diamond rod. That combo has gotten my M43 frighteningly sharp. The grind is no longer convex, which compromises the durability of the edge slightly, but that's not a problem for me because I'm not chopping thick oak or some other such hardwood. It's mostly soft vegetation and some occasional pine.
 
I've managed to get my M-43 sharp with sanding blocks and 1000 grit sandpaper, but the edge seems almost fragile. I get the edge paper-cutting sharp, but can't keep it that way. The frustrating thing about sandpaper/blocks is cutting thru the paper. Maybe I'm running the wrong way on the blade?? I've been sharpening from edge-to-spine, at about a 90 degree angle down the blade edge.


Is this right?
 
Ironhandjohn said:
I've managed to get my M-43 sharp with sanding blocks and 1000 grit sandpaper, but the edge seems almost fragile. I get the edge paper-cutting sharp, but can't keep it that way. The frustrating thing about sandpaper/blocks is cutting thru the paper. Maybe I'm running the wrong way on the blade?? I've been sharpening from edge-to-spine, at about a 90 degree angle down the blade edge.


Is this right?
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It sounds like you are thinning the edge to much and possibly changing the profile from convex to full flat, if it seems fragile and dulls easily. Khukuri do not need to be hair popping sharp to cut or chop. IMHO most people overdo this aspect of khukuri.

Check the koster tutorial i posted in post # 14, it shows you how to get a razor sharp convex edge that holds up well without overdoing it.
 
Ironhandjohn said:
The frustrating thing about sandpaper/blocks is cutting thru the paper. Maybe I'm running the wrong way on the blade?? I've been sharpening from edge-to-spine, at about a 90 degree angle down the blade edge.
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When using sandpaper for sharpening, I always have the edge trailing. No worries about cutting the paper that way. I confess though that I've ruined a few strips of the stuff whe I first started out. :o

Oh, and lately I've found that stropping on denim seems to really give my blades an extra boost in sharpness that isn't as easy for me to accomplish with my fine ceramic stone. Definitely an edge trailing technique, especially if you're wearing the denim at the time. :D
 
Ironhandjohn said:
Wearing the denims????????




Seems like a good way to amputate a leg, doesn't it??
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Yeah, thus the importance of the edge trailing technique for stropping. :D

Edit: also, wearing the jeans while stropping can be more effective, as the flesh of your leg has some give, and allows the stropping to curve onto the edge... not unlike the give in the mousepad and sandpaper technique.

Sometimes I'll use the palm of my hand to strop afterwards... but that's a risker procedure!
 
I live by the strop-on-a-stick:

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/p1760...ouble-Sided-Hone-+-Compound/product_info.html

For pretty much everything, from small blades to khuks, I hold the blade steady and move the strop. This yields precise angle and pressure control, and I couldn't be happier with the results.

My BRKT Gameskeeper in particular, with its full convex grind in A2, gets stupid sharp with this treatment, and it's not a skinny blade. I could not touch this level of sharpness with just stones.

The khuks push cut paper, but more importantly the high polish increases edge wear (and rust) resistance for extended chopping.
 
One of the stropping techniques I've been experimenting with lately is to take a simple piece of paper tower and roll it into a tight tube. Doesn't need to be more than two inches long and the diameter of a pencil. Make sure it's tight....

Then after using your sanding paper to get a satisfactory edge, strop the length of the blade first one side, then the other by pressing on the edge bevel. Be careful not to roll over the edge. You'll notice the paper picks up the grit residue while cutting an extra-fine edge on the profile much like stropping compound. To me this works better than denim or the inside of my belt.

And it's cheap!
 
MrMike said:
One of the stropping techniques I've been experimenting with lately is to take a simple piece of paper tower and roll it into a tight tube. Doesn't need to be more than two inches long and the diameter of a pencil. Make sure it's tight....
Click to expand...

Can you post pics of the process?
 
Color me Puzzled...
All of the HI Blades that I have obtained have only required a little time with ceramic rods, then SHARP.....
Am I just "Lucky" so far?
Lets see.. EV Katana, Wajeski, 16 Sir, 18 Sir, WW2, 2 Biltons, Bura Gool,JKM, Bura Bowie,9 Inch Chitlangi,Baby AK, 2 Kages,.. that is the majority of them.
I have a 15 inch Kobra by Sher on the way... maybe That will be the one that needs more than just the Ceramic Rods.
It IS nice to know that I can learn Much from All of You, in case this one on the way turns out to be a pain to sharpen.
Ed
 
DocH said:
Color me Puzzled...
All of the HI Blades that I have obtained have only required a little time with ceramic rods, then SHARP.....
Am I just "Lucky" so far?
Lets see.. EV Katana, Wajeski, 16 Sir, 18 Sir, WW2, 2 Biltons, Bura Gool,JKM, Bura Bowie,9 Inch Chitlangi,Baby AK, 2 Kages,.. that is the majority of them.
I have a 15 inch Kobra by Sher on the way... maybe That will be the one that needs more than just the Ceramic Rods.
It IS nice to know that I can learn Much from All of You, in case this one on the way turns out to be a pain to sharpen.
Ed
Click to expand...

Hey Ed. You know what would be really cool? If you sent us a picture with all those hangin off your belt!! Would be a great marketing photo
 
I'll try to take a pic tonight - thanks for crucifying the newbies!
Stay tuned for a question on carbon blowout - separate forum topic...
 
Not trying to thread hijack, but I thought this is related to the sharpening questions. If I wanted to fully convex my khuk, from spine to edge:
1) would it significantly boost performance as a chopper?
2) how deep does the hardened metal go in the sweet spot? Should I be worried about removing too much hardened metal while grinding, leaving only soft steel? Pardon me, I'm still have much to learn about the khuk making process :o
 
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