sharpening rat knives

I am extremely happy with my sharpmaker. The diamond hones make reprofiling a breeze.
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I've had a Sharpie for quite awhile. My experience with removing "any" of the powdercoating from one Izula anyway, to be quite a chore requiring a lot of time even with the diamond rods. I'd never try it again, put it that way, I'd use a guided, diamond stone system for the rest of my RAT's if needed.

Or, as I did with a new Izula that I stripped and forced a patina on - use sandpaper and a mousepad starting with 200 grit and working up to at least 700 - 800 range before looking at a strop.

I'm leaving my other Izulas, RC-3 & 4 the way they came and maintaining the factory bevel, and stropping.

"Convexing" sounds so cool but it's not as simple as it sounds, especially on the RAT/ESEE steel IMO. :)
 
+ 1 on the sharp maker. finally decided my izula could use a touch up, and with literally just a few passes I got it back to shaving sharp in no time. I'm not too sure that i wanna try convexing yet, as i'm not that good with a stone. I can get a working edge, but never one as sharp as i like my knives. I do have a question though, would a relief bevel work the same? for instance with the sharpmaker they recommend a 40 degree edge with a 30 degree back bevel.
 
I do have a question though, would a relief bevel work the same? for instance with the sharpmaker they recommend a 40 degree edge with a 30 degree back bevel.
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That's when you run into that powdercoat at the 30* setting. I's a Bear to remove and either takes a lot of pressure or a million strokes to get through it, removing expensive diamond chips frorm your rods.

If I reprofiled another of my coated RAT knives (which I won't) I'd lean my sharpening stone against the Sharpmaker diamond rods (they're the tightest fit) and then go at it with that rougher "stone" first. Save a lot of time and save your diamond rods too....just sayin..:)
 
I've been using this one lately, I love the results.

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cziv said:
That's when you run into that powdercoat at the 30* setting. I's a Bear to remove and either takes a lot of pressure or a million strokes to get through it, removing expensive diamond chips frorm your rods.

If I reprofiled another of my coated RAT knives (which I won't) I'd lean my sharpening stone against the Sharpmaker diamond rods (they're the tightest fit) and then go at it with that rougher "stone" first. Save a lot of time and save your diamond rods too....just sayin..:)
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sounds like that'll work. i just might give it a shot. But yeah, do you think a back bevel would be any less effective than convexing? i mean it tapers the soulders down so it's not such a steep grind, so to me it sounds like the same idea.
 
sharp is pretty relative bro. I think it gets them quite sharp, for as simple an implement as that small steel is.

While i don't get to use it quite like a large kitchen steel, a simple horizonntal stroke works just fine, i have sharpened 9+" blade with it, and it gets a very respectable edge.

for the size i havn't found anything else that does the job as well.

The steel is marked Sheffield england near the micro-handle. And it is a very fine texure. I wish i could read more on the markings, but the steel texture has camouflaged the information a bit.

EDIT: Found it, its made by Forshner (not deal spotting, just too lazy to steal the pic and repost it, i hope thats ok) The Swiss Army sheath and steel combo can be found for half the price of the link i posted.
 
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It simply burnishes or aligns the grind on a blade. I looked for one since it's interesting but couldn't find one below $15 + shipping. I guess I'll stick with an ultrafine ceramic rod & strop for finishing.

Thanks for the info! :)
 
It simply sharpens dull knives ;)

Search knifecenter.com for the swiss army sheath, like i said its half the price that would be much less than $15
 
That one comes w/o the steel if you read the fine print. I have two full size cutlery steel rods and occasionally use them with a stubborn sharpening job and you're right they do work! :)
 
I just bought a sheet of stropping leather 6"x12" for $15. I went to HD and bought a 1/4"x2 1/2"x2'-0 piece of oak for 2.47, and made a 6" long strop. Oh WOW, what an edge I put on my Izula. I didn't even use any compound on the strop. What a great tool to maintain your edge.
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