Sharpening SE blades

Thanks for the replies guys. It's nice to know that I'm not doing anything super wrong and that rounded points are just a fact of serrated sharpening. I'm trying to do it more correctly now because my SE Delica had *such* sharp points out of the box. ...and through repeated SharpMaker sharpening (on the scalloped side mostly), I've made them more rounded. Not super rounded, just not nearly as sharply pointed as they used to be. Which is a shame because just pressing those points against (for example) a blister pack, and doing a pull cut would just melt through it. It still cuts plastic now, but it's harder to initiate the cut and sometimes requires me to use the tip instead of just the serrations.

Anyway, it's cool to learn the ins and outs of serrated sharpening. It's another challenge and another blade type.

Thanks,

Brian.
 
When sharpening serrations the first thing you must realize is that eventually there will be no more serrations.

The first rule of fight club is NEVER TALK ABOUT FIGHT CLUB!

Jokes aside, good info in this thread, thanks for all the insights from the veterans.
 
Yet another bump. My dad recently gave me his Cutco hunting knife to sharpen for him, which as the normal double D serration pattern. I've previously sharpened this knife with the SharpMaker, but it was tricky and took a long time.

Today I started with the SharpMaker, but I was determined to use the "flat side first" technique. I went nearly flat on the brown SM rod (flat side of blade to flat side of rod). I should start by saying just how dull this knife was: Every single serration reflected light back at me when viewing it straight down. One or two of the serrations was chipped as well. This was one DULL blade.

After 10 or 15 minutes on the SM brown, I had reduced the reflection width on all of the points, but had only gotten maybe one or two of them to have no reflection. After de-burring, the knife would tear and kinda cut phonebook paper, but it was not sharp. The teeth slid easily over my thumbnail without biting in. I set the blade aside and did another knife.

When I came back, I thought, "Why not use the DMT EF on the flat side for a short while? Just a few strokes can't hurt right?" I set to it, after putting marker on the back side. In a short while I checked and I had actually removed the reflection from some of the serrations. I kept going and in a few more minutes had all the reflections removed, except in the curved upper part of the blade. Checking sharpness with my fingers, there was an amazing difference. Thumbnail test worked too, as the points bit into my thumbnail when dragged over it. The curved part continued to slide over the nail validating that the reflections really did mean it wasn't sharp.

It took more effort to get the reflections to go away at the front, and in fact, I decided to stop with one or two of the points still reflecting light, as I didn't want to remove too much metal all at once. As it is, I can see where I've taken metal off, but it's mainly a difference in finish, as opposed to some big bevel I've put on it.

I deburred using the white SM rod corners and then polished the back with the flat of a white SM rod. I went back and forth a few times and drew the blade through cork to deburr as completely as possible. It now slices phonebook paper relatively cleanly, though it isn't quiet like a plain blade. It's also sharp enough to catch some hairs on my arm and cut them. Again, no where close to the shaving from a plain blade, but it's a measure for me that this is a quite sharp serrated blade.

This is my first full validation that sharpening serrated blades from the flat side totally works, and I'm now unafraid to use something more coarse like the DMT EF to do so. I'm still hesitant to go as far as the DMT C, but maybe I'll try that on some really beat up serrated blade I don't care about.

I'm stoked with my progress on this.

Brian.
 
I only have 2 serrated knives- a Spyderco Pacific salt and a Byrd hawkbill. The Byrd presents its own set of challenges being a hawkbill. I sharpen them on the flat side using sharpmaker rods laid flat till I raise a burr then hit the scalloped side on my bench grinder polishing wheel with white compound.
 
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