Sharpening solution for hiking

I use a coarse / fine DMT folding sharpener. I like it because I can easily get hair popping sharp edge on the fine side when I finish the edge and the coarse side works faster when sharpening an axe or machete before I switch back to fine for a more refined edge. I need to make a portable strop to go along with it.

In general I agree with Ben when it comes to pocket knives. Machetes, axes, kuhkuris etc get a little more of a workout from me out in the field though so they need a good sharpening from time to time. I don't do much hunting, the most one of my knives would see is a rabbit or two.

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=DMTFWFC - I bought mine on clearance locally for 13$ to throw in my pack. It's been a useful purchase. Completely re-edged a damaged Mora (Edge failed slicing griptape for a skateboard) in a few minutes.
 
The DMT folding paddles are nice. For field use I'd go for a coarse/fine since a toothier edge will probably be better/more than enough for the tasks you'll be facing and can be used like a file to produce superb working edges on even very long blades. Also, it's light and compact and easy to clean.
 
bodydamage said:
Try completely butchering one with one blade.. Ive done it twice with my AUS-8 Kershaw Echo.. Id like to see a knife that can fully butcher an elk and not need to be sharpened..
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I've done several with my Bob Dozier knives, and a couple with the old Cold Steel Master hunter that my son has now.

I think we're discussing apples and oranges here. Yes, I've always re-harpened my knife after getting home, but I've never had to stop and sharpen my blade while dressing/butchering in the field.
 
bodydamage said:
Try completely butchering one with one blade.. Ive done it twice with my AUS-8 Kershaw Echo.. Id like to see a knife that can fully butcher an elk and not need to be sharpened..
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bodydamage, Your correct AUS-8 will not do it. Were meaning not requiring sharpening until after the field dressing is done.(gut, skin and quarter)But many other steels will if properly heat treated. Like 440C, 154CPM, S30V, BG42 and I'm sure the D2 others mentioned. Some of these are capable of further completing the processing at home putting the edible cuts into the freezer. Then sharpening the blade. DM
 
David Martin said:
bodydamage, Your correct AUS-8 will not do it. Were meaning not requiring sharpening until after the field dressing is done.(gut, skin and quarter)But many other steels will if properly heat treated. Like 440C, 154CPM, S30V, BG42 and I'm sure the D2 others mentioned. Some of these are capable of further completing the processing at home putting the edible cuts into the freezer. Then sharpening the blade. DM
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Perhaps the term "butchering" is too vague. I butchered a hog last year with a Dozier, which means I gutted it, including splitting the pelvis and breastbone, and cut the head off. I used a saw for the legs. There was no noticeable difference in the sharpness before or after. I will be happy to supply pictures as evidence.... :D
 
sodak said:
Perhaps the term "butchering" is too vague. I butchered a hog last year with a Dozier, which means I gutted it, including splitting the pelvis and breastbone, and cut the head off. I used a saw for the legs. There was no noticeable difference in the sharpness before or after. I will be happy to supply pictures as evidence.... :D
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sodak, Did you use the same knife to skin, quarter and then cut up the meat into edible portions (process) for the freezer? DM
 
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