Sharpening Stone

[Chris "Anagarika"]

www.washboardsharpening.com. About 50ish if not mistaken.
The 'stone' will never dish, loaded strop replacement is easy.

The maker is our own member HeavyHanded, he'a also into wood working tools, and his goal is to help achieving as flat as possible bevel while doing free hand.

 

[No1up]

That washboard looks sick...

I would still go with the workshop GSS but this would be a tough one... depending on the goal of the user. The washboard looks like it will train your hands much quicker. I like it's versatility.

 

[Spartan00]

www.washboardsharpening.com. About 50ish if not mistaken.
The 'stone' will never dish, loaded strop replacement is easy.

The maker is our own member HeavyHanded, he'a also into wood working tools, and his goal is to help achieving as flat as possible bevel while doing free hand.

+2 HeavyHanded and has taught me a lot about sharpening and I trust him . Just so happened I had bought a ton of stones before the washboard but if they wear out I will get a washboard .

 

[TsarBomba]

Isn't DMT supposedly one of the better manufacturers of diamond stones?

I picked up a fine DMT stone earlier today and frankly it's comical. Anyone have any insight into this brand?

 

[Chris "Anagarika"]

Isn't DMT supposedly one of the better manufacturers of diamond stones?

I picked up a fine DMT stone earlier today and frankly it's comical. Anyone have any insight into this brand?

Can you describe what makes it comical?
I've used the credit card series with good result, also the diafold E/EE.

To stay on topic, I don't use my knives hard, so a sharp polished edge suitable for shaving is my goal. The DMT, even though it is small, is enough for reprofiling my steels (VG10, ZDP), and for minor touch upof M4, K390, D2, Superblue, 8Cr & AUS 8.
I consider it adequate for starting up, as it handles all kind of steel.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Isn't DMT supposedly one of the better manufacturers of diamond stones?

I picked up a fine DMT stone earlier today and frankly it's comical. Anyone have any insight into this brand?

I'm also trying to figure out why(???) this is even being asked here, or in what context. Seems out of context in the current topic being discussed. DMT is a quality brand, and I'm not seeing anything in other posts suggesting otherwise in this particular thread.

If there's an issue with the hone you picked up, let DMT know about it; they'll make it right, one way or another. Their handling of such issues is part of the reason for their reputation for quality. Nobody's perfect, and even the best manufacturers suffer the occasional mistakes. How they handle those mistakes is what makes the difference.

As to my own 'insight' on the brand, I own about a dozen DMT hones across a full range of sizes, from pocket hones to full-size bench hones; they all work fine (great, even), and have held up well.


David

 

[ohsown]

Personally, I don't cheap out on sharpening because it only leads to frustration. Buy once, cry once is my motto.

I also prefer waterstones because I have found through LOTS of sharpening that they produce some of the best edges while also being very efficient.

Sticking with a budget I would recommend the King 1000 and a leveling stone. This single stone option will keep things simple and allow you to learn/master one stone. Keeps you from being confused with a progression of stones and allows you to learn at a faster pace.

On the other end of the spectrum we have a 3 stone set. The idea of a 3 stone set is it provides you with all the basics for sharpening, a Coarse, Medium and a fine stone will allow you to grind, sharpen, and finish an edge. This is also the more costly option but gives you all the tools needed to repair and sharpen edged tools.

I like to break down the sharpening set even further. I use two stone set with a lapping/grinding plate, this is generally a mix of coarse and medium stones that produce more aggressive edges which is ideal for cutting tools that get used a lot.

If you couldn't already tell I like Shapton waterstones. They are fast, efficient, wear slowly and produce very sharp edges. My typical recommendation is for the 500 extra thick and 2000 Glass stones with an Atoma 140 for setting bevels and lapping the stones. They are top of the line stones so it's not something you will outgrow.

I have the Shapton 500 and 2000 ordered. If I pick up the Atoma 140 can I use it to lap both the500 & 2K Shaptons and for setting bevels. I thought I read that using the same plate for knives and lapping was not recommended.

I should add that they won't see a lot of use. Mostly some high carbon stainless forged Grohmann kitchen knives (54-56 hardness) and a few folders ranging from Sv30. Elmax & M390.

 

[kn4wd]

try the ultra sharp diamond available at best sharpening stones. I have a full set, one failed and they replaced it. had an issue with the edges of the stone coating failing. as they said no questions asked and I had the new 300 in 2 days. good plates for the money.

 

[Jason B.]

I have the Shapton 500 and 2000 ordered. If I pick up the Atoma 140 can I use it to lap both the500 & 2K Shaptons and for setting bevels. I thought I read that using the same plate for knives and lapping was not recommended.

I should add that they won't see a lot of use. Mostly some high carbon stainless forged Grohmann kitchen knives (54-56 hardness) and a few folders ranging from Sv30. Elmax & M390.

Yes, the 140 works well. Remember to use light pressure at the end of lapping as it all improve surface texture.

 

[ohsown]

Thanks for that. My confusion was reading other posts stating the Atoma 400 was preferred for lapping Shapton at 500 & over. I guess I'm trying to economize using one Atoma for two purposes, probably not the best scenario. I'm thinking since the Shaptons are new they wont need lapping for some time. Maybe for now I'll just get the 140 for setting bevels.

 

[Jason B.]

Thanks for that. My confusion was reading other posts stating the Atoma 400 was preferred for lapping Shapton at 500 & over. I guess I'm trying to economize using one Atoma for two purposes, probably not the best scenario. I'm thinking since the Shaptons are new they wont need lapping for some time. Maybe for now I'll just get the 140 for setting bevels.

The 400 would be more ideal to lap the 500 and finer stones because it would wear them less and texture them better. I wouldn't consider it for double duity though. The 140 is often preferred because it does very well in both roles and for the minimal differences in lapping it's really only a concern for the very picky sharpener like myself.

The Shaptons are built on the idea of supreme flatness and must be flattened before every use. It is incorrect to think you will not need to flatten just because they are new, it's one of the first things that should be done to the new stone and certainly never neglected.

 

[ohsown]

Well that sorts it for me. The 400 will be first for the Shapton glass and I'll pick up something different for bevels. Do the diamond plates need to be broken in with something? I've seen posts about uneven diamonds putting some drastic scratches in stones.

I thought one of the benefits of going with Shapton Glass was that due to their hardness and resistance to dishing, they remained flat for a longer period of time. Having to lap them prior to each use seems a bit over the top, especially if a light pressure is all that is required when using them. Granted, this is new territory for me at this level as I have been using 3 Arkansas stones up to now. Maybe I'm overthinking this a bit.

 

[Jason B.]

They do wear slower so you don't need to lap as much per individual sharpening session. If you neglect them for a handful of sharpening's you will not be very happy with how difficult they will be to lap flat again. Remember, these are very hard ceramic stones so lapping will be unlike any other waterstone. Lapping them before use will only take a few seconds, ensure you have a flat surface and provide the surface texture needed for proper sharpening.

It's required maintenance for these stones and a good practice to keep for any waterstone. A dished stone, even by a little bit, does you no favors in sharpening.