Sharpening? stones,diamonds or sand what do you guys perfer?

J

Jack_Daniels

Joined
Sep 28, 2011
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20
just looking to see what alot of you like and dislike.

I know for convex you need a flexible surface and for the fighter i am working on i want a convex angle and i'm researching how and what to use with that.

but for other uses what stones do you guys like and do any of you use diamond if so why or why not use diamond.

i have a set of Gatco stones that have never done me wrong for resharpening an edge and remaking an edge on already finished knives but this will be my first start to finish for me. I have course medium fine and an ultra fine stone. also have a strop but no compounds as of yet. what do you guys think of gatco?
 
For the convex I use made an 18" stopping rig - 2" leather strap glued to a piece of oak that is impregnated with polishing compound. If I need to remove more material faster, I clamp a 600 grit belt over the leather strap.
 
i use paper wheels to sharpen knives with a v edge and to put convex edges on i use my belt sander and finish up the edge with the slotted paper wheel to remove the burr and polish the edge.

do you have a belt sander to convex your fighter?
 
I am a wicked edge fan. Diamonds all the way. The leather strops put a convex edge beautifully.
 
For non-convex users, not "show" edges, I use Medium and Fine diamond benchstones (Lansky) for maintenance or reprofile. Works 90% of the time. But I like a toothy edge.
For push edge, I use waterstones. 1000 and 4000 grit. Touch up on 8000 grit scrap of ceramic stone I have had for years.
 
I've been using a synthetic stone Lanksy for years. I might upgrade to diamond though. I use it to both sharpen my own stuff and put the final edge on what I sell so it's getting a lot more use these days. Diamond stones would speed it up.
I also use a very old hard arkansas stone from that my grandfather used. I generally use that for quick touch ups on softer knives since I'm horrible about holding a consistent angle by hand while sharpening. My last common use tool is a Ka-Sticks set, basically just a wooden box with two ceramic sticks you can insert to form a V. Everyone and their brother has copied the design over the years. Mine's probably about 30 years old now but still works well for final cleanup since they're pretty fine stones. I use it for my pocket knives and kitchen knives mostly.
 
I have been using my belt grinder to rough in my convex edges, and finishing them up on a set of Norton water stones. I am thinking of switching up my stones though, I find the Nortons wear fast. I love the finished edge I get from them so I am looking for a more durable alternative.
 
If you sharpen free hand on a stone. Your edge will be convex. If only a little. You cant hold exactly the same angle every pass.
 
xmtgx said:
If you sharpen free hand on a stone. Your edge will be convex. If only a little. You cant hold exactly the same angle every pass.
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i've never really thought of it like that but your right the Japanese Katana is convex and they have always used a stone like setup
 
A convex bevel is a constant curve. You can't hold the same angle but what happens is that you make a series of tangents instead of a single and constant curve - you no longer have a convex edge at that point.

xmtgx said:
If you sharpen free hand on a stone. Your edge will be convex. If only a little. You cant hold exactly the same angle every pass.
Click to expand...
 
BMK said:
A convex bevel is a constant curve. You can't hold the same angle but what happens is that you make a series of tangents instead of a single and constant curve - you no longer have a convex edge at that point.
Click to expand...

Really? Can you file a curve without making flat spots? Yes you can by rocking the file around the curve as you move it, its the same thing with stones, you have to rock the blade as you move across the stone. If there is any sort of tangents/flat spots on my edges after I finish up with a stone they are so fine that they get taken care of when I strop
 
I like japanese water stones. I really like the polished edge i get with them, and when you get up into the 6k+ range, they leave wicked sharp edges. balsa/leather strops loaded with a diamond compound after stones.
 
Yes...really. I don't care if you are a rock star on a rocking horse. The tangents that are later eased into a curve by stropping remove more material than is necessary to sharpen what should be a constant curve. Draw it out on paper and you will see what I mean.

unky_gumbi said:
Really? Can you file a curve without making flat spots? Yes you can by rocking the file around the curve as you move it, its the same thing with stones, you have to rock the blade as you move across the stone. If there is any sort of tangents/flat spots on my edges after I finish up with a stone they are so fine that they get taken care of when I strop
Click to expand...
 
how do you guys feel about carbide sharpeners? by that, i mean ones like that smith's pocket pal, or other pre-set sharpeners. i hear carbide takes off too much metal, and will ruin your blade if you sharpen it alot like that.
 
BelairUSN said:
how do you guys feel about carbide sharpeners? by that, i mean ones like that smith's pocket pal, or other pre-set sharpeners. i hear carbide takes off too much metal, and will ruin your blade if you sharpen it alot like that.
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Yup. They are something I would only use on a cheapo knife (and even then, not really).
 
My suggestion, take it or leave it, is whatever your grind is (Convex, flat, hollow) make your edge bevel a flat grind rather than attempting to roll a convex. One reason being that any perceived edge durability gains will be offset by the excessive thickness immediately behind the effective edge interfering with the cutting action

-Page
 
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