sharpening stones

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fancy bushcraft

Joined
Jan 1, 2016
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Hi! I'm new to this forum and I just want to ask what would you prefer for sharpening a fixed blade A2 carbon steel bushcraft knife? I used to own a king waterstone set which is now in the verge of dying,well besides my 6000 grit waterstone that is and now I am having a hard time choosing a new set of stones. I'm trying to decide whether to get the dmt duosharp in all grits accompanied with my 6000 grit Japanese waterstone and then a strop or get a set of shapton stones. But with the shapton stones I have no idea what grits to buy because I want to have a RAZOR sharp edge on my knife.

Oh! And what compound should I get for my strop thx!!!
 
I wouldn't purchase diamond stones for sharpening A2. As their scratches are difficult to work out. I'd get the green chromium oxide paste for the strop (high %) for the strop. DM
 
Shapton Pro 1k, 2k, and 5k would be my rec, it will be a welcome upgrade from the King stones.
 
Jason B. said:
Shapton Pro 1k, 2k, and 5k would be my rec, it will be a welcome upgrade from the King stones.
Click to expand...
WOW! thx man! what would you use to lap the plate though cause I heard that shaptons are harder than some other stones out there and I am wondering what to lapp it with. Also why stop at 5k? why not stop at the 8k stone? And what would you use as a compound for the strop?
 
I'm in the same boat. I've been using really cheap and really small stones for like three years now and only recently, like within the last few months, been getting some seriously sharp edges. It took that long. Anyway, I've been looking at the diasharp series. It's time to spend the dough and get some qualify supplies.

I don't really want to go with water stones because they just look like a PITA. I don't really want to lug around a tank of water. Should I stop being a sissy and go water stones or will diasharps suffice??? I don't really see why they wouldn't, but maybe I'm missing the allure of waterstones.
 
jamie, don't go with them as they are a pain in the rear and wear down quickly and must be leveled often. Get a Norton combination coarse/ fine India stone. It offers much better value for your money, works great, gives a good edge, little preparation and no leveling for years and years. DM
 
Not sure I would take recommendations to not buy Shaptons from someone that has never owned Shaptons...

Shapton Pro stones are very hard ceramic stones that cut quickly and wear slowly. Unlike a King stone that needs constant lapping and makes a muddy mess the Shapton stones could be used on several knives without worry of stone flatness being very far off. It is recommended to lap them before every use though, this assures you have a perfectly flat surface to hone your knife or tool. Lapping the surface of a Shapton stone also textures the abrasive for more efficient sharpening. As for the mess, when lapping most everything stays on the plate or stone surface, run both under a faucet and the messiest part of using a Shapton runs down the drain.

As for lapping tools I would recommend the DMT XXC or Atoma 140. The Atoma is a little better but both will quickly lap the surface flat when needed. BTW, You don't need a nagura if you lap before use.

Tank of water?

I can sharpen on my Shaptons with a shot glass of water. I've done it more than once in my travels. Shaptons are excellent splash-n-go stones using very little water.

Fancy,

No need to go beyond 5k for knives, the SP5k will yield impressive sharpness by anyone's standard. If you feel you need a more refined edge then the 8k might be a stone for you.
 
I have seen many people praise the dmt stones because they cut fast and never have to be leveled and only need a quick splash of water but with shapton you also only have to give a splash of water. I have also heard that you have to make sure that the dmt stones don't stay wet or they may rust
 
Good rec, Jason :thumbup:

Shhhh - I haven't lap my SP & SG for at least 6 months. Probably each stone has low 2 ends and dished center :p
Jason B. said:
Not sure I would take recommendations to not buy Shaptons from someone that has never owned Shaptons...

Shapton Pro stones are very hard ceramic stones that cut quickly and wear slowly. Unlike a King stone that needs constant lapping and makes a muddy mess the Shapton stones could be used on several knives without worry of stone flatness being very far off. It is recommended to lap them before every use though, this assures you have a perfectly flat surface to hone your knife or tool. Lapping the surface of a Shapton stone also textures the abrasive for more efficient sharpening. As for the mess, when lapping most everything stays on the plate or stone surface, run both under a faucet and the messiest part of using a Shapton runs down the drain.

As for lapping tools I would recommend the DMT XXC or Atoma 140. The Atoma is a little better but both will quickly lap the surface flat when needed. BTW, You don't need a nagura if you lap before use.

Tank of water?

I can sharpen on my Shaptons with a shot glass of water. I've done it more than once in my travels. Shaptons are excellent splash-n-go stones using very little water.

Fancy,

No need to go beyond 5k for knives, the SP5k will yield impressive sharpness by anyone's standard. If you feel you need a more refined edge then the 8k might be a stone for you.
Click to expand...
 
Jason B. said:
Not sure I would take recommendations to not buy Shaptons from someone that has never owned Shaptons...

Shapton Pro stones are very hard ceramic stones that cut quickly and wear slowly. Unlike a King stone that needs constant lapping and makes a muddy mess the Shapton stones could be used on several knives without worry of stone flatness being very far off. It is recommended to lap them before every use though, this assures you have a perfectly flat surface to hone your knife or tool. Lapping the surface of a Shapton stone also textures the abrasive for more efficient sharpening. As for the mess, when lapping most everything stays on the plate or stone surface, run both under a faucet and the messiest part of using a Shapton runs down the drain.

As for lapping tools I would recommend the DMT XXC or Atoma 140. The Atoma is a little better but both will quickly lap the surface flat when needed. BTW, You don't need a nagura if you lap before use.

Tank of water?

I can sharpen on my Shaptons with a shot glass of water. I've done it more than once in my travels. Shaptons are excellent splash-n-go stones using very little water.

Fancy,

No need to go beyond 5k for knives, the SP5k will yield impressive sharpness by anyone's standard. If you feel you need a more refined edge then the 8k might be a stone for you.
Click to expand...

k thx, so does the 5k stone allow my knife to make small little curls on paper and pop hair of my arm? XD and what kind of sharpness does the 8k give? I have not seen anyone stop at either of these grits so I literally have no idea. Also what type (and color) compound would you recommend for stropping the knife? I have used just a simple block of green compound all my life but thingd have changed and now theres all sorts of compounds! XD

also thx for all the recommendations that you have given me, helps alot!
 
I know you like putting down folks it's just your ways. Real gentleman manners. No other ideas allowed but yours. We were talking about water stone. Soaking and preparation. Then leveling, increased cost ect.. There are better more economical ways toward a sharp edge. DM
 
Jason B. said:
Shapton Pro 1k, 2k, and 5k would be my rec, it will be a welcome upgrade from the King stones.
Click to expand...

also what is the purpose of the 2k stone? also what is the difference of the more expensive professional stone and the Hano Kuromaku stone? they look the same to me.
 
fancy bushcraft said:
I have seen many people praise the dmt stones because they cut fast and never have to be leveled and only need a quick splash of water but with shapton you also only have to give a splash of water. I have also heard that you have to make sure that the dmt stones don't stay wet or they may rust
Click to expand...

IF choosing to use them (and I'm not trying to sway anybody either way, for the sake of this thread topic), diamond stones don't have to be used wet at all. You CAN if you want to, but they do just fine when used dry. Insofar as wet use is concerned, so long as you clean them and dry them afterwards (2 minutes with dish soap & water + toothbrush), they'll be fine. No need to worry about rust on them, unless they're completely neglected. DMT recommends either dry or (optionally) with a little water in using them; but it's not necessary. Probably the easiest hones of all to maintain, and no more difficult to clean than washing your hands.

The 'rust' usually seen on diamond hones (and any others, for that matter) is from embedded steel swarf rusting, and usually not the hone itself. The surface of the hone is nickel plate (doesn't rust), so most rust issues on them can be cleaned up with no harm to the hone itself. If there is embedded rusty swarf, a scrubbing with Bar Keeper's Friend powder & water will dissolve it and have them looking almost new again (rinse thoroughly afterward).


David
 
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So far It looks like I will be sticking with a dmt black/blue 10 in. for lapping the shapton stones and also for fixing up very dull edges. but I am still debating whether to get the 2k grit or not. Also can someone plz tell me what is the difference between the more expensive professional stones or the chepaer Ha no Kuromaku they look pretty much the same.

and thx everyone for replying to my questions.
 
I have a lot of Brownells 555 white from all the work I do on guns. When I ran out of the gold stuff I gave the 555 a shot and it works awesome. No idea what micron it is, nor does it say...but it works killer.
 
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