sharpening stones

The 5k is hair popping to hair splitting at times but it's an aggressive edge for its refinement level. 8k starts to get to a level of refinement seen in straight razors or speciality kitchen knives, the edge just gets smoother and less suited to the cutting tasks of a working knife.

The 2k Shapton Pro is one of my favorite 2k stones, it makes the jump from 1k to 5k faster and is a great finishing stone for a lot of cutting tools. It has a lot of cutting power too so it can be used on a fairly dull knife to resharpen and finish all in one.

Hano Kuromaku, are the Shapton Pro of the Japanese market. Not intended for sale outside Japan but it happens.

DMT only recommends the XXC and Dia-flat plates for lapping. Using any other plates is done at your own risk.
 
Jason B. said:
The 5k is hair popping to hair splitting at times but it's an aggressive edge for its refinement level. 8k starts to get to a level of refinement seen in straight razors or speciality kitchen knives, the edge just gets smoother and less suited to the cutting tasks of a working knife.

The 2k Shapton Pro is one of my favorite 2k stones, it makes the jump from 1k to 5k faster and is a great finishing stone for a lot of cutting tools. It has a lot of cutting power too so it can be used on a fairly dull knife to resharpen and finish all in one.

Hano Kuromaku, are the Shapton Pro of the Japanese market. Not intended for sale outside Japan but it happens.

DMT only recommends the XXC and Dia-flat plates for lapping. Using any other plates is done at your own risk.
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how long do you work on the 2k stone and how long on the 5k?
 
As long as needed, there is no set amount of strokes of time to grind a bevel.
 
srry let me rephrase that, so after i finish with the 2k stone how long do I stay on the 5k? I know that the 1k stone is for regular sharpening and 2k for polishing up the 1k stone a little and I do realize that it saves time on the 5k stone. So how do I know when to move on into the next grit? I have only rarely have to sharpen my blades so I am still a little confused in some things. Also how would I find a bevel on a scandi grind? I cant seem to find one on my knife.
 
DeadboxHero said:
Until all the scratches from the 2k are gone.
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Lol turns out I forgot to add something. How would I know when to stop on the 1k stone to go to the 2k stone? And also how would I know when to stop on the 2k? Stryker for all the questions I'm just trying to make sure that I don't miss anything here XD
 
FB,

I use the Shapton 1k, 2k and 5k. I lap them before each use with an Atoma 400. I don't always feel the need to strop my edges (carbon steels, O1, 3V mainly) after the sharpening. If it happens i go with a a russian foal bare leather. For daily maintenance leather strop loaded with chromium oxyd.

Some prefer diamond plates and get good results but, at least for me, the Shapton ceramics are more comfortable. They provide such a feeling that it's the stone which will tell you when you have worked enough on a grit. That and a close inspection of the edge and of the scratches pattern.

The 5k grit gives a more sticky than bity feeling if you make the 3 fingers test. Fine enough for most tasks. However i wonder if the 8k could be a noticeable improvement for my wood whittling knives.

dantzk.
 
fancy bushcraft said:
Lol turns out I forgot to add something. How would I know when to stop on the 1k stone to go to the 2k stone? And also how would I know when to stop on the 2k? Stryker for all the questions I'm just trying to make sure that I don't miss anything here XD
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Basically you are using the 1k to shape the edge and the 2k/5k to refine the edge. You would move on from the 1k to the 2k after you have removed any minor edge damage and formed a burr on each side of the edge.
 
I personally use the Shapton Pros myself for 01, A2, D2, and for my Japanese kitchen knives which are mostly white #1 and blue #2 steels. For wear resistant and/or stainless stuff, I go with my DMT dia-sharps.

I have way more stones than I really need, but I like to try different things out, so I have 120, 220, 320, 1000, 2000, 5000, 8000, and 15k (which is labeled as 12k if you get the Japanese market version aka hano kuromaku).

For my bushcraft knives, which are primarily 01s and A2s, I primarily use 320 (this mostly when I'm sharpening a knife for the first time to reset the bevel as most bushcraft knives I get seem to steep an angle for my taste), 1000 and 2000, then just strop on BRKT green compound, and I get an edge that is quite good: will pop hairs, do a wavy cut on a print paper etc. although for me, the real test comes down to how it does when I'm working with wood for various Bushcraft practicing. Once in awhile, I'll go up to 8 or even 15k just for fun.

For my gyutos, I'll typically take it up to 5k, and yanagiba, 15k (so I do have a use for that stone other than for messing around :) ).

This is also a neat "guideline" that I've found for Shapton pros awhile back I'd like to try one of these days (probably next Christmas break LOL):
http://www.fine-tools.com/shapton-instructions.html

Totally don't mean to put you down, but based on some of your questions, it sounds like you could use a little help on sharpening basics. I'd encourage reading through the stickies as most folks will tell you it's technique over the tools. Murray Carter can create an amazing edge with two king stones way beyond what I could EVER do with my Shaptons that cost WAY more. But I don't blame you for wanting to upgrade, lot of folks here as far as I can tell (I for one am) are gear junkies.
 
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catalystman80 said:
I personally use the Shapton Pros myself for 01, A2, D2, and for my Japanese kitchen knives which are mostly white #1 and blue #2 steels. For wear resistant and/or stainless stuff, I go with my DMT dia-sharps.

I have way more stones than I really need, but I like to try different things out, so I have 120, 220, 320, 1000, 2000, 5000, 8000, and 15k (which is labeled as 12k if you get the Japanese market version aka hano kuromaku).

For my bushcraft knives, which are primarily 01s and A2s, I primarily use 320 (this mostly when I'm sharpening a knife for the first time to reset the bevel as most bushcraft knives I get seem to steep an angle for my taste), 1000 and 2000, then just strop on BRKT green compound, and I get an edge that is quite good: will pop hairs, do a wavy cut on a print paper etc. although for me, the real test comes down to how it does when I'm working with wood for various Bushcraft practicing. Once in awhile, I'll go up to 8 or even 15k just for fun.

For my gyutos, I'll typically take it up to 5k, and yanagiba, 15k (so I do have a use for that stone other than for messing around :) ).

This is also a neat "guideline" that I've found for Shapton pros awhile back I'd like to try one of these days (probably next Christmas break LOL):
http://www.fine-tools.com/shapton-instructions.html

Totally don't mean to put you down, but based on some of your questions, it sounds like you could use a little help on sharpening basics. I'd encourage reading through the stickies as most folks will tell you it's technique over the tools. Murray Carter can create an amazing edge with two king stones way beyond what I could EVER do with my Shaptons that cost WAY more. But I don't blame you for wanting to upgrade, lot of folks here as far as I can tell (I for one am) are gear junkies.
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yes, yes I do I cannot agree more. The thing is is that I sharpen my knives rarely because I normally strop XD. Also It said on their website to use a 1200 grit for honing and that is one high grit. Also I normally sharpen with 2 stones so it is pretty confusing now that I am getting serious about sharpening :D Also I was really just asking how would I know to stop on the 2k grit to go to the 5k grit because I have heard that if you go to a really high grit you can easily lose your edge. but hey that's just me lol
 
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