Sharpening system?

dustd3

dustd3

Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
133
Hey guys,
I got a lansky deluxe sharpening system recently and have been spending a bit of time with it on a few different knives. I am pretty new to the whole knife thing and have mostly low end stuff right now...8cr13mov, couple I'm not sure on and 154 cm. I'm having a really hard time getting a good edge on any of my blades. I've watched YouTube videos and have tried to imitate the best in can. I just can't seem to make it work. Are there any recommendations ya'll might have? Or tips?

What I expect is more along the lines that I should get a different system...which I would love to but I don't have the money for something like the wicked edge I always hear about. Are there some other systems that are lesser priced and easier/better than what I have?

Any advice or tips or anything would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Dustin
 
Not trying to be a SA but toss those systems. Get some good bench stones and lean how to freehand. It is not all that hard as some of the inter net gurus make it sound.
DMT stones are great.
 
The lansky is just fine for what you say your needs are. As a matter of fact, any sharpening system should work as long as you know how to use it. I would recommend spending more time trying to sharpen your knives. Learning how to sharpen is often a trial and error process and it is a skill that takes time to learn.
 
Use a marker on the blade edge to make sure your grinding metal off the very edge and not just the shoulder.

You could also make a secondary bevel. For example, set your main bevel at 15 degrees and go through your sharpening process. Then reset your angle to 20 degrees and go through the sharpening process. With your finer stones use super light pressure to fine tune the edge on this bevel.

I just bought two new sharpeners. The Spyderco Sharpmaker ($55) and the Apex Edge Pro 4. ($260 after shipping)

Both are nice but the edge pro is killer. You could start a knife sharpening business with the edge pro. Also there's a cheap knock off of it on eBay for about $50 or so. I wanted the real thing though so preferred from Edge Pro inc. Itself. There's cheaper edge pro models too.
 
You might want to take a look at the work sharp Ken Onion edition. It lets you set the angle to whatever you like (with a guide), and has variable speed. It lets you sharpen as gently or aggressively as you want, and you can totally reprofile even very hard steels in a matter of minutes. It's more expensive than something like the Sharpmaker, but not nearly as much as the edge pro apex. It's worth it IMO - I love mine and can't see myself going back to ceramic rods or stones any time soon.
 
I have a lansky also, and think it's a good system for the money. One problem I've come across is that you can't always get the exact same angle that the knife came with on the 15,20, and 25 degree factory settings on the lansky. It will still work but it may take a while to reprofile the edge. I always take a marker and color the blade edge then stone a few spots to see how close I am. If the stone is hitting the whole edge you won't see any of the marker left on the edge. Once you're close to the angle you want sharpen the blade till you can just feel a burr form on the opposite side. Then switch sides and repeat till you get down to the fine stone. Most of the real work will be done with the coarse stone, and it shouldn't take much after you do it the first time unless you bugger up the blade bad.

Now if you're like me you still won't have the edge you're looking for. The trick I found with any sharpener is to hit with a leather strop, and all of the sudden you have a very sharp knife. I simply made one out of an old leather sling I had laying around. I didn't know if it would work or not so I didn't want to spend the money for a good one.

Hope that helps some.
 
Takes time my friend.
-read on the different angles and what they are ment for
-take pics of where the blade was in relation to the jig
-sharpie trick
-patience
Just takes time like anything else. Doesn't really matter what method you use, the theory is all the same.
 
The sharpie trick is a good one, another thing that a lot of beginners struggle with is the burr. Sometimes you can just push the burr from one side to the other (I am generalizing of course). Once I figured out how to get rid of that burr I was able to get my knives stupid sharp.

I use the KME sharpening system and this video is exclusive to that but he uses the sharpie trick and discusses removing the burr. It's a bit long but informative.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0HgR7T8ZfE
 
Alright guys thanks...All helpful input. Mostly sounds like anything you have will work alright once you get it down. Just have to put the time into it and learn that system. I think I'll just keep working on it for a bit longer before grabbing another system.

How long should it take (I know different for everybody but generally) to get one blade sharpened? Nothing I have has been abused too badly so I don't think I need to start with the extra coarse stone unless I want to change the angle. I bought the little strop attachment for the system as well but it doesn't seem to do much. Probably because I don't ever get the blades real sharp anyways?
 
Get a sharpie to mark the edge of the blade. Try to clamp the knife at least in the middle of the blade, it would be best to favor the front half of the blade if possible. When sharpening, the angles change toward the tip. Now, you got your blade marked, set in the holder, find the closet degree the blade edge is and start off by using the course stone until the blade is sharp using only the course stone. What you're doing with the course stone is shaping the blade and reaching the apex of the blade. Don't apply too much pressure to the stone. Work each side until you can feel a burr on one side, depending on the shape the blade is in, 8-10 times on each side. Once you feel that burr all the way down the length of the blade, you'll know you've reached the apex of the blade, with no pressure on the stone, just using the weight of the stone, work the burr out. Use only a couple of strokes on each side until the blade is sharp. The medium and fine stones are for refining the edge to remove the rough finish of the course stone and getting your edge smoother. You'll be there a long time if you try just the medium/fine stones.
This is for initial sharpening, reaching the apex of the blade. Once you have achieved a hair shaving edge, then you can touch up with the medium/fine stones as you use the knife. Every now and then you need to use the course stone to keep the edge true.
I've been using the Lansky for a long time and find the only issue is the rods float if you don't hold them in place with your index finger. I either hold to the bottom of the slot or keep the rod on the top. Personally, I refuse to shell out the money that some sharpening systems are demanding for their product.
The SharpMaker is an excellent system and the KME system is great also. I have both of these as well. I use the Lansky the most.
 
I've used a Lansky system for nearly two years and love it.
I've used it for "soft" steels, 154cm, 1095, Elmax, etc. and I get hair shaving results.
But it does take time and patience.

You don't describe how you sharpen. That would be helpful.

Here are my helpful tips:
I do not remove the wires from the hones. I've removed the included screw and replaced them with set screws I bought at Home Depot. This allows you to use more of the hone. I also use "blue" grip tight on the set screws to hold the wires in place. Once the wires are set parallel to the hone surface I only check them before use and tweak as needed, which isn't often.

I've placed each of my knives in the "jaws" where I want them...as has been said unless you put them in the same spot the angle changes a bit...and take a photo of the knife in the jaw. This way I always place the knife in nearly the exact same place as the previous time I sharpened it.

I use a tackle box with the center "walls" removed to hold the hones with attached wires...so much easier...imo.

I generally use a 50 stroke per side method. Sometimes more seldom less. This works for me. Others have their own systems and if they work to our satisfaction that is all good.

I use the medium and fine diamond hones followed by the "black" Arkansas hone then the yellow and blue sapphire ceramic hones. I always finish with a bit of stropping on my home made leather strop.
I started with the natural set of hones but found they did not work all that well for the harder steels.
I have a Lansky leather hone...imo it is useless for honing but they tried...it just does not work imo.

I use each of the diamond hones until a burr is reached then flip the knife over and repeat. Once I feel the knife edge is ready to move on to the next hone I then move to the next finer hone. Usually once I hit the yellow and blue ceramic hones I'm really just polishing the edge. It is already very sharp.

Here are a few pics that may help.
KnifeSharpeningKit1_zps2250cd3c.jpg

IMG_0742_zpsaf1ffd21.jpg
 
Thanks ajack I think the problem is definitely me and not the system. I will be trying your suggestions as with everyone else's later today/tonight and I'll let ya'll know how I make out. Again thanks a bunch, I really appreciate it.
 
Kai that is a lot of helpful info. The set screws is a great idea...because on some angles you can't reach the whole length of the blade. I'll be trying all this stuff today. Thanks
 
I've read good reviews on the Lanksky in general. I almost bought it on a few occasions. Your probably not getting your knives super sharp because you haven't ground your bevel properly yet. I'd try what the guy above recommended with the course stone and get your bevel set with a burr. Then work from there.
 
The Lansky is a very good, inexpensive system.
Kai Winters had some very good tips in his post too.
Another thing I do is wrap one layer of electrical tape on the jaws, this improves the grip and lessens the chance of scratching the blade.

I have other systems I use also and use bench stones a lot too.
The guided systems are great for reprofiling and really bad edges.
As long as I don't let my edges get too far gone bench stones or the Sharpmaker keep them shaving sharp with minimal effort.
 
I have used a Lansky for several years and had good results... until I bought a Becker BK14. The steel was harder than most I had worked with to that point. I could get most knives shaving sharp with the Lansky, although I did find my knives "walked" a bit in the clamp. I noticed the pic above of a Lansky setup with a thicker, skeletonized clamp. Mine was either older or cheaper, as it was fairly thin, solid aluminum.
Last week I ordered a KME system and am anxiously awaiting its arrival. I ordered it with the diamond stones and a 1000 grit ceramic stone. I also ordered some "horse-butt" leather to make my own strop to use with the system. It looks like the clamping system of the KME will be much more sturdy than the Lansky setup I have.
 
Mine as well looks thinner and cheaper out of aluminum and I can't seem to get it perfectly tight. We'll see how it goes
 
dustd3 said:
Mine as well looks thinner and cheaper out of aluminum and I can't seem to get it perfectly tight. We'll see how it goes
Click to expand...

I have the same clamp and with some blade profiles I have some trouble getting it where it doesn't move on me. This is important cause if your angle keeps changing even a little you're not going to get the edge you want. I have some electrical tape wrapped around mine, it helps but i'm still trying to find something better.

As others have said make sure you keep all the rods in the stones the same too. I lay mine on a flat surface and tighten the screws and never take them apart.

I was also thinking about drilling a hole for the rods in the clamp between the 20, and 25 degree slots. It seems like that would work the best for most of my knives.
 
That's a great idea...I would prefer that angle and if you made the hole a little smaller there wouldn't be as much play!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top